Re: TU Clutch Feedback and Big Thanks to Chris!
I have driven both sprung and unsprung hub clutch cars. I couldn't tell much difference, if any.
For those wondering about spline wear on unsprung hubs, I asked Chris about that and evidently the case hardening on the input shaft is good enough that this doesn't seem to be an issue.
Re: TU Clutch Feedback and Big Thanks to Chris!
Maybe I'll try and unsprung next. My current yellow plate 6 puck sprung setup seems great but I'm not making real power yet. Looking to make 300-350whp in a lancer.
Re: TU Clutch Feedback and Big Thanks to Chris!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thedon809
What's it like driving an unsprung clutch?
I was going to say, just like a sprung clutch but without the springs! lol
Decided to wait for backup before putting it out like that, which I have done too many times in the past...……..
Re: TU Clutch Feedback and Big Thanks to Chris!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thedon809
Looking to make 300-350whp in a lancer.
Torque is what makes the clutch slip, that's why TU gives the torque rating of the clutch, not HP.
Re: TU Clutch Feedback and Big Thanks to Chris!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
tryingbe
Torque is what makes the clutch slip, that's why TU gives the torque rating of the clutch, not HP.
Drivetrain components are usually rated in torque, I know. Weight plays a role as well. Figure a 2.2 in that power range is making similar amount of torque as it is HP.
Re: TU Clutch Feedback and Big Thanks to Chris!
I've been running Chris's Ultimate (Stage IV/ Purple) 6 puck clutch for many years now. It's in a full weight 1992 Daytona IROC R/T TIII at over 30 PSI on a HE341. It is making well over the 434 Ft-Lbs of torque Chris rates it for. Never had an issue with it. Amazing clutch and Chris was great to work with when I chose it.
Re: TU Clutch Feedback and Big Thanks to Chris!
I'm pretty sure sprung hubs are to reduce the NVH penalty of people 'lugging' the engine, or bringing the rpm down so low that the individual power pulses on the crank produce an unpleasant vibration in the drivetrain and gear lash noise in the trans etc. This is the same reason dual mass flywheels were invented. If you don't drive your car that way you dont need a sprung clutch. Plus, that part of the clutch disc seems to be the most likely to prematurely fail. I've replaced a bunch of clutches just because of damage related to those springs/pockets failing. Another thing is that the weight on the clutch disc represents a lot of the work that a synchro has to do on a fast upshift to slow down the spinning input shaft. Lighter clutch discs are easier to shift at high rpms. I think for most enthusiasts unsprung is the way to go. The only downside is one you can 'drive around' and the upsides are numerous.