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Drove the car home and the transmission shifted fine. About an hour later I went to go pick up my son from basketball and the transmission only goes into reverse. Initially I couldn't get into any forward gears, but later I was able to get the transmission into 5th.
Even with the engine off the car won't go into 1-2-3 or 4.
The clutch pedal feels normal. A quick check and I didn't feel any missing teeth on the adjuster mechanism...
Any thoughts on what is wrong or what to check next?
bushings or the springy C-clip things that anchor the cables at either end.
Can you shift into gear with the cables disconnected?
Getting to the actuators on the trans are a little tricky, but it is on my to do list... The bushings (poly) I can see seem to be ok.
I would get to it first. Having nothing but reverse is a problem and you should be able to get it into gears with the car off with a little finesse or moving the car back and forth if you think the clutch is dragging. Probably not clutch since reverse would be the hardest to get in.Quote:
Originally Posted by c2xejk
Finally got around to pulling the shifter cables off. The trans still won't go into gears other than 5th and Reverse. Looks like whatever the problem is, it is internal to the trans.
Anybody care to speculate what in specific is wrong?
Can you move the shifter side to side normally or is it stuck in the far right 5th/reverse plane?
I can move it side to side.
Maybe you had a roll pin fall out or something. I would suggest taking the shift mechanism off the top of the transmission and looking at it and down inside to see if there is anything obvious going on. I will say that the 1 10mm bolt near the transmission mount is a SERIOUS PITA in the car! I had to slide my entire drivetrain over, then I STILL had "fun" getting to it.
TOTALLY worth the effort as nothing else was wrong except it was jammed. Put it back together and didn't have any more issues until I popped the HG.
Ok, finally got around to pulling the shift mechanism off the top of the transmission. Bad news is nothing seems to be wrong... Plus I can reach in and shift the trans into reverse, but I can't do that with 1-4. Pictures are attached in case I am missing something...
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...pskrft0ooo.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...psl9dcfa9j.jpg
Take out the detents (spring and piston things) so you can loosen it up and see if the other stacks even move.
BTW, can you start the engine in neutral without pushing the clutch in? When I had to disassemble mine, the 1-2 synchros were corroded and stuck together meaning the car lurched forward in neutral starts with no clutch. Forced me to take it apart. End result is 2nd gear synchro no longer functions so I don't drive the Duster.
What's weird is that it worked and now it doesn't almost like something broke. If the clutch is bad it still should be able to go in and out of gears OK when at rest/off.
Like Brent said, since you are this far, pull the springs and cylinders with the rollers out to make sure the ends are not messed up then see if that free's up the shafts to move.
If that doesn't, then remember that the A543 has detents on both ends. The other end is accessible in the car, just have to put it on jackstands, pull DS wheel and splash shield and end cover. Hard to believe there could be an issue with those unless one got damaged....
Pulled the transmission today. I was getting ready to swap the differential and found the magnet stuck to the OBX differential... In several pieces. I doubt all of it is present. Guessing some of the pieces went through the transmission...
One question, do I need to keep the ring gear with the transmission it came from? (Do I need to swap the ring gear when I put the OBX in?)
OCD would get the best of me and say no to mixing different ring and pinion since they are worn matched together. That being said these are helical gears and not hypoid so its really not an issue.
Impact gets them off pretty easy. I remember trying to remove them with a breaker bar and no vice. Ewe.
This means you are going with a replacement transmission?
I was determining the shims and not paying close attention as I torqued the end cap on. It was slightly angled and cracked the diff cover. (middle bolt hole in the picture.) How bad is it?
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...psbghy0etp.jpg
I don't think thats a big deal as long as you don't make it worse. Were you locking down one bolt while the other side mating surface was hung up on something else so it split in the middle?
Yup... I was concerned because the crack went through the bolt hole. I first noticed the crack on the top side of the bolt hole.