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You'd be correct in that, in fact, the older Saturns had a spin-on filter on the trans case, something I always liked about them, but they still need something on the sump to spare the pump should garbage be produced, as that's going to be sucked up and run through the pump "first thing"...Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadWarrior222
I like the idea of an external filter and will likely incorporate one in the future, once I'm making enough power to break something! ;)
Mike
subies have a really fine brass (i think) screen on the sump pickup and a spin on filter on the side of the case. they say if the trans slips or needs a rebuild, flush the screen and replace the spin on filter.
Brian
mechdb.com/index.php/Chrysler_A413_transmission_valve_body_modification s
If that's a link, its no good.
looks like it should be this - http://mechdb.com/index.php/Chrysler..._modifications
Thats it, thanks. I wanted to put it here since it had better explanation and pictures for the mods.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShelGame
---------- Post added at 10:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 PM ----------
My next question is, what is an acceptable pressure for stock clutch packs? A 1/32 hole in the valve body and the screw backed off all the way should be a decent start point, probably around 100 psi? Would 100psi be fine for loose clutch packs?
---------- Post added at 10:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:38 PM ----------
I am still looking for pictures of the 5 clutch mod with 404 steels, and specifics on removing the wavy ring in the rear clutch and tightening it.
---------- Post added at 10:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 PM ----------
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ht=clutch+pack
I feel that the bleed hole is a bad idea for stock tranny's, the extra force could blow the clutch's due to the excessive clearance and it will bend the stock rear band strut-been there, got the badge, lol. I currently run 1/16 hole and have the line pressure adjustment just under half, it shifts firm but doesn't rattle your teeth.Quote:
Originally Posted by shackwrrr
Carls site shows the clutch doesn't it, all your doing is adding the steels and fibres, then adding the snap ring, NO wave ring and checking clearance. I'll see if I have enough parts kicking around to mock something up.Quote:
Originally Posted by shackwrrr
I thought the rear band strut bent with excessive pressure in reverse, which the bleed hole mod is supposed to avoid. So telling people not to do the mod that avoids the problem that other methods (strong spring , nut shim etc) cause is kinda dumb.
The line pressure causes the arm to apply with more force and faster, so the thin metal strut rod will simply bend over time. The line pressure mod jacks up line pressure. Chad's mod does bypass's reverse getting getting full line pressure like if you crank the regulator spring but its still gets more than stock, enough to bend the rod, which I've done in testing, lol, and that band also comes on in LO, so now, its getting a ton more line pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadWarrior222
The site shows the lathe modded pressure plates in the clutch pack not the 404 set up.
What is an OK pressure with stock clutches. 90? 100? I guess I can move the drill mod to after the clutch mods.
Not sure, I ran simply alot more line pressure on a stock tranny for a year or so but not with Chad's mod, just cranking the reg spring. Others say its fine, others had issues, guess its one of those things. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by shackwrrr
simon didnt you have some manual valve body mod info? this is a good thread for that. I know carl's site had it but we dont have web archive snapshots of the later iterations of his site...
Brian
Yes, I'll copy it and post up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo
hurry up.....
---------- Post added at 10:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 PM ----------
ideally we should add carls site format to this thread too. host the images in a post from this server and paste the text in. who knows how long webarchive will keep it alive...
Webarchive seems to be in it for the long haul, BUT things can go inaccessible when a spammer buys a domain for residuals and then puts a robots.txt file in the root directory forbidding crawling, then even though they don't own the stuff that was on the domain 3,5, 10 years ago, webarchive has to honor the block. Apparently they still allow access to "researchers" to those sites and still have them backed up, but block them from the public.
Bite me Bucar, :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo
Get Frank to host it, we've been down this road many times already.
Simon,
Do you have DIY FMVB info similar to Carl B's how to or something else like the Superior kit? Or is it info on a RMVB like TurboAction Cheetah non-lockup or a RMVB with lockup like Chad Killback's?
email it to me. ill host it.Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovanman
Brian
Carls site, not the mvb paper. I'll still send it to you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo
Looks good, this has needed to be done for YEARS. I dont know how many times Ive wanted to put a shift kit in my NY, read on it and got so confused with new/old conflicting information I just left it alone.
I didn't notice one thing I would love to see added, I know if you block off the shuttle valves you cant use the normal ports to check line pressure. Id love to see something added on how to check the line pressure after blocking off the shuttle valve and the correct way to check it.
Thanks guys!