Help me better understand Wategate tables in MPTune

I am trying to work on computer controlled boost. I understand the different types of hose routing and setting up the boost targets but need help a bit on the Duty cycle stuff. I thought i would start with this the DCWOT. I have spent the last 3 days reading up and still don't understand it.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=59477&stc=1

The GREEN is the MP tune and the BLUE is the stock a577 it looks like the furthest right point is at the max boost and set at the highest DC. The question i have is that i thought on T1 control you want the highest DC at low boost.

Is this a subtraction meaning that the DC% =100%-WOTDC% but that doesnt make sense

If you want stock level of boost, use it. If you want higher boost level than stock, then don't use it.

I spent many hours on it, couldn't get it to work.

I bought my HDi electric boost controller and put it in, boost is so steady now. I wonder why I waited for so long, I want my hours back wasted on the stock stuff.

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Originally Posted by tryingbe

If you want stock level of boost, use it. If you want higher boost level than stock, then don't use it.

I spent many hours on it, couldn't get it to work.

I bought my HDi electric boost controller and put it in, boost is so steady now. I wonder why I waited for so long, I want my hours back wasted on the stock stuff.

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I get that i have wasted my fair share of hours on this but wanted to try once again

For anyone who cares I found that this table WOTDC table outputs the plotted DC for a given boost TARGET not current boost. As I understand works like a WG line bleed. A bigger DC equals bigger bleed hole and thus more boost.
Assuming this is correct you would only need to adjust DC for boost levels you have selected. For example only the part throttle boost target, low boost target and high boost target, because the other points won't ever be used. Assuming that all other targets are equally to at least one. Of the other 3.

Ideally you would tune the whole curve so future changes to boost target will work without changing the DC.
I would think in theory you tune this DC table to your setup and every major change in engine flow would require a re- adjustment.

I would think that you can tune it like a Pump efficiency table start setting a boost target to something just above min boost (line straight to actuator) like 7 psi. Then adjust the DC at that tat target until good results are achieved. Then increase target in 5psi increments and repeat DC adjustments.
It would seem that some cats would have boost creep or boost decrease in higher RPMs so you could adjust the DC from RPM table to help compensate that.

Maybe I am way way off???

Lastly the next challenge would be to figure out how to get quick spool. I know TSmec has an added feature to help that. My thought would be to increase DC in RPMs that you know your car is spooling, but that would mess with part throttle boost control.

Wahoo progress after changing the table a bunch i got a whole 7psi but could tell it was working as it was 5 psi when it was cold and then 7 when warm, still not my goal of 13.

I got thinking that the autozone Dorman restrictor is 0.035" bigger than the 0.025" stock ones and wondered if the bigger restrictor was not letting the solenoid vent enough pressure off, as i ran some calculations the bigger one flows about 3 times the smaller one from what i understand. I then just unplugged the line from the solenoid, just in the air so should be max boost but got the same 7psi, there was too much restriction in the factory hard line at least with the big restrictor. So i ran a new line of bigger hose and It works my gauge is reading about 11-12 psi! I will have to plug in MPscan as i think the last time i did it read about 2 psi more than my gauge so that is right where i want it. I will double check by next getting the high-low boost switch enabled

Seems like the key is the right size combination, if you have a bigger restrictor you need hoses and solenoid DC that will flow more too. I would like to find a factory sized restrictor but after a bunch of online searching there is only one place that sells smaller ones and they are like $5 plus $9 shipping, so idk if its worth it.

A 0.035 in. wire feed welder contact tip would work for a restictor. You could find one up locally to you.

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Originally Posted by 87blueshelbyz

A 0.035 in. wire feed welder contact tip would work for a restictor. You could find one up locally to you.

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I might try it, I looked at them at Lowes but visually looked a ton bigger, maybe they narrow down inside a bit. I also noticed on this forum http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...-database.html some setups use 2 restrictors which would probably help also.

The DCWOT table (depending on the model year) is the baseline table.
Monitoring the adaptives will be the true indicator to where the table needs to be.
Additionally, many alter this table with the belief that it will improve response when it will not, once the adaptives are permitted to adjust.

The restrictor in the pneumatic circuit only acts as the "capacitor" to the rate of boost rise and response time of the system.
It will not alter the overall goal or correct mis-adjustment of the DCWOT table.
For that "RESFAC" (response factor) or RATLIM (Rate Limit) should be used.

I hope this helps