Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
Your patience will pay off. I think maybe start it up and let it idle in your driveway. While it’s running, just grab areas of different electrical harnesses under the hood and shake them around. Of it hiccups in a certain area, you may be able to narrow it down. This has helped me find many electrical gremlins on various vehicles. How often is this happening? And how long does it last when it acts up?
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Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
It's relatively consistent, but it can run pretty well for a time too. I'll try more giggling.
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
Giggling is a great idea...LOL
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
Where does the Tach get its rpm signal from?
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Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
new idea....
use this to create a new 8v source for the LM.
https://www.amazon.com/DZS-Elec-Conv...dp/B071CWMRYD/
run a 12v jumper straight from the battery into the car.
Run a ground straight from the battery to the fuel rail bolt (just in case) and an additional one straight into the car.
http://minimopar.net/ecu/lm-1987-t2.html
hook the constant 12v to the amazon regulator and set the voltage output to 8v.
wire the new 8v power source to Red LM connector pin 23 circuit N6 18 OR 8V power supply from power module and disconnect the original. (use a radio harness pin so you dont have to butcher the harness)
wire the dedicated ground to Blue LM connector Pin 7 and 8 circuit K9 18 LB/RD* Power ground source from fuel rail bolt
go for drive.
Brian
PS. the next step will be to jumper 12v straight to the LM as well (do it all one at a time) to see if 12v is dropping out.
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
I just purchased that. I'll look for some lm pins tonight on the internet.
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
I have a feeling its some flaky wiring or connector or switch somewhere in the harness.
Brian
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
That's my thought too. I also think it must be a relatively small issue. I drove the car tonight and it cut out only once in about 15 minutes. I think I'll drive it to school tomorrow.
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
Did you ever check that splice in the 8v circuit by the strut tower? Mine was connected but came apart when I touched it.
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
Quote:
Originally Posted by
jamesmonty
Did you ever check that splice in the 8v circuit by the strut tower? Mine was connected but came apart when I touched it.
Yes. It looked great too.
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Aries_Turbo
new idea....
use this to create a new 8v source for the LM.
https://www.amazon.com/DZS-Elec-Conv...dp/B071CWMRYD/
run a 12v jumper straight from the battery into the car.
Run a ground straight from the battery to the fuel rail bolt (just in case) and an additional one straight into the car.
http://minimopar.net/ecu/lm-1987-t2.html
hook the constant 12v to the amazon regulator and set the voltage output to 8v.
wire the new 8v power source to Red LM connector pin 23 circuit N6 18 OR 8V power supply from power module and disconnect the original. (use a radio harness pin so you dont have to butcher the harness)
wire the dedicated ground to Blue LM connector Pin 7 and 8 circuit K9 18 LB/RD* Power ground source from fuel rail bolt
go for drive.
Brian
PS. the next step will be to jumper 12v straight to the LM as well (do it all one at a time) to see if 12v is dropping out.
The unit arrived today. I think I have this figured out as far as the wiring goes. I think I might try to find some spare lm pins first though. I have few, if any which will work right now.
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
They are the same as the radio connector pins I believe, if you have any Chrysler radio harnesses laying around.
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Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
Quote:
Originally Posted by
RattFink
They are the same as the radio connector pins I believe, if you have any Chrysler radio harnesses laying around.
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They are. I'm running out of spare radio harness sections, so I ordered up what should be a multiple lifetime supply of them.
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
Edit: my negativity was unfounded. I just needed to adjust the converter to beat the band before it would adjust the voltage.
Having routinely measured the 8v signal as about 8.6v, that's what I set it to. With the 8v sent directly to the lm and even fed back through the harness at the same time, it made no difference.
I'll check the power section next. The I guess I'll be checking grounds.
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
With just the two grounds from the blue connector hooked up to the intake, it made no difference. I'll run a dedicated ground from intake to battery and retest after lunch. I've got to be getting close based off of processes of elimation if nothing else.
Eta: with the ground from the intake to the battery directly on top of the ground running straight to the lm, there was no change in behavior. Power is up next...
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
For posterity and my own sanity, here is a recap of what didn't work.
8v supply directly to lm and also fed out through the orange N6 wire. No longer hooked up.
Essentially grounded the following directly to battery by meeting up at intake. K5, both K9 terminals. Still in place.
What did seem to have positive effect:
Direct line from battery to both K14 terminals which is apparently the J2 circuit. That being faulty could also explain why I could never get the MpSciLink to pair since it was taking power off of the J2 circuit from the diagnostic connector if I'm not mistaken.
I just got back from a miles long test run and multiple sessions of idling and high idling which was a.l it took earlier to freak the car out.
I'm by no means ready to declare victory, as there is a lot of work ahead of me, even if it is the j2 circuit. It runs all over the place and has several splices. Not to mention the fact that ther could be a break I. The wire anyplace too. I guess it's a start.
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
WOW. This is amazing why it would act up only when the ALT was attached. Bad power I guess.
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
Quote:
Originally Posted by
chromguy
WOW. This is amazing why it would act up only when the ALT was attached. Bad power I guess.
Yes. I'm thinking it had something to do with that. When this mess is over, I might hook the big amp unit back up. It will really help with the hig beams on at idle to say the least.
Re: Difficult Ignition Cutout Problem
Well, I'm still thinking bad power, but the jumper from the battery for the J2 circuit didn't solve the problem. It still wanted to cut out badly on the way to school, however the problem is very much smoothed out. I'm wondering if I'm not totally losing power to the PM? I guess it is time to start at the battery and work my way to the PM. Good times...
Eta: it ran horribly in the way home. It was cutting out like crazy. On the up side, the computer stored a code 15 and 54. I know the speed sensor is unplugged, so it makes sense to finally see that code. However, I'm thinking the code 54 is on account of the external power bypassing the asd relay.
This car is a nightmare. At one point it thought for sure the car was going to die from all the backfiring and cutting out. I was actually excited that I might be able to track down the issue. Maybe I'll try a few more tests, but a fu,l inspection of the harness with it out of the car might be in order soon.