External voltage regulator attempt fubar

I've been having problems with my Spirit R/Ts charging system...the volt meter started to give fluctuating readings and would some times throw a code 46. I replaced the alternator thinking that the voltage regulator was in the alternator, but then I found out it was controlled by the computer. I tightened down the battery cables and all was well for a while. But then the fluctuating readings came back so I had my friend (who has a shop) wire in an external regulator. I bought a complete kit, and my friend said it was a pretty straight forward installation. Well the work was done yesterday, and the car seemed fine. But today it starting doing the same thing, even with the external regulator installed. My buddy trouble shot the system and all seemed ok with the wiring. We tried a new voltage regulator and it didn't make a difference. We are both stumped now...

Get an alternator from a Toyota Camry not sure the year. It has a built in regulator and is easily swapped if it fails. Bypass the stock one altogether. Seems like it was late 90s, early 2000s that I got one from the parts yard.

I would test the alternator output and battery. Those external regulators are pretty rock solid and hard to mess up. How was it wired in? Measure the system voltage with a meter and see what it is doing when the dash gauge is acting up. Is the alternator ground in good shape? It's possible you got a crappy rebuilt alternator. I've seen lots of parts-store ones bad right out of the box.

Pretty easy install, alternator has four connections....., positive (to BAT) , negative (ground engine block) , and two fields these go to the external VR does'nt matter which one, and one off the field to positive, as switched on via ignition switch (I connect it to the positive on the coil as this is energized with ignition. if this is left connected it will drain you battery when off.

the old field wiring, insulate it and do not connect , make new wiring for the field connects to VR , and important! ground the CASE of the voltage regulator to chassis.
there are lots of wiring diagrams on the web showing this. the Power module internal VR never lasts long, so most of us use this set-up. DAve

It's a strange one...voltage is bouncing between 4.2 and 4.8....the place I bought the external regulator conversion kit from told me to run ground wires from the battery to the regulator, and then from the regulator to the alternator, which I did. No difference, the needle on the volt meter bounces, except when it's under a load. Or if I rev the engine in neutral the needle stays solid and doesn't bounce.

the old wires that go to the module are dead ended now right ?

if the old module was still connected that might cause the issue to remain

BUT you say it seems to come and go ?
that sounds like it could be a bad connection , maybe even in the gauge wireing

This is how I have mine setup.
http://www.backyardmechanic.org/how-...jeep-chrysler/

...but all you need to do is clip the field wires and connect them to the external v-r pigtail

no other wires are needed to anything , anywhere

I've done this to many times to count now that way and NEVER had an issue

- granted when I first found I could use the ex v-r I thought there would be other wires but no it's stunningly stupidly simple

so much so I've put them in all my TM's over the years , needed or not