Boost Button ECU chips question and BOV question

Hi all, my father installed a Stage 3 BB ecu (16psi) in his 89 Shelby Daytona. I installed a Stage 4 BB ecu (18psi) in my 88 Daytona Shelby Z...along with the injectors and 3.0 bar map sensors.

We just did it last middle of last week and have driven cars a few times and they are still hitting boost cutout. I have meth/water inj. so it doesn't matter too much if it overboosts, but my dad just has the +20's and we don't want to damage the engine. Obviously we both let off as soon as it overboosts.

I understand from Cindy that it takes some time for ecu to calibrate, but how long exactly and can any type of driving help it?

Also, do we need that small restrictor in the wastegate turbo vacuum line with these ecu's?


2nd questions: Where does the bov vacuum line go? Is it wrong to put it on the big left side vacuum nipple?

Oh, it can be a long discussion with a number of factors. but I'll try to take a stab to help.
I have recently played with computer controlled boost, hooking it back up for the first time in over 20 years.
To the question "how long will it take to adapt?"- well that depends how much it is off. What I saw attempting to run boost control on a BB canned tune I'm not surprised you're having the issue. No real knock to Rob, there are just a lot of variables going on and it can be difficult to account for all of them. I don't think it's sufficient to keep hitting over boost waiting for the adaptives to get things back in line. There can be a delay in OB kicking in and if there is a second of delay that can mean one hell of a spike in that time. Likewise, you shouldn't have to wait for the computer to learn up to your boost goal.
Now if you are set on using computer controlled boost, are you in a position where you can make you own tuning changes to your calibration? Like : flashable computer, Ostrich emulator, chip burner? You will be best off tuning it to what works for you.
The BB Turbonator cals have the option for either TI style boost control or TII style boost control. Your mechanical routing of the system needs to match with style the cal is set as.
So far I have had decent results using TI control, routing like 92+ TI, turning WG adaptive off and charting what a given DC will result in for boost. Then use those values to setup for curve on the WG DCWOT table.

Regarding the BOV, you typically want it to get a signal from any manifold source that will see boost and vacuum. I believe the left TB nipple sees both.

After typing on my phone I ended up on my computer anyway to look up those cals. Both the Stage 3 and Stage 4 Turbonator SMEC cals (v19.6) for 2.2/MTX have T2 boost control selected by default. Each of your vehicles would have originally used the T2 routing, correct? The original T2 routing did include at least one restrictor.

Computer controlled boost control does not work on the Boost Button stage cals. It was never sorted out before Rob shut down the business. People have tried to fix it, but no on has gotten it to work.
I went through this earlier this year while tuning my van. I’m controlling boost with a g-valve. So is most everyone else.

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Originally Posted by ajakeski

. I’m controlling boost with a g-valve. So is most everyone else.

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I was also using a MBC but am much happier with the EBC. I now have adjustable boost from the driver seat.

ok thanks guys! MBC it is. Is there a cheaper or better solution than a granger valve? Can I use any of these cheap ones? https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=manual+boo...price-asc-rank


Dan H - I don't have a chip burner. I just wasn't sure you still needed that restrictor with custom ecu's. Also, I was getting turbo flutter with the BOV connected to the left vacuum nipple, so I put it back on the right one where it works fine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ShelbyZD

Is there a better solution than a granger valve? .

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Pay to play.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...=1#post1113092

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ShelbyZD

ok thanks guys! MBC it is. Is there a cheaper or better solution than a granger valve? Can I use any of these cheap ones? https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=manual+boo...price-asc-rank


Dan H - I don't have a chip burner. I just wasn't sure you still needed that restrictor with custom ecu's. Also, I was getting turbo flutter with the BOV connected to the left vacuum nipple, so I put it back on the right one where it works fine.

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Any of the ones from ebay that have a single ball and spring like a Grainger will work just fine. I have 2 and they work flawlessly.