More screen shots of features in this scanner on a SMEC.
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More screen shots of features in this scanner on a SMEC.
And a few more pics.
Also pulled a vacuum down in the a/c system and it held for an hour so I went ahead and put ~34oz of 134a in it. I am happy with the performance of the system.
It was already retrofitted with the 134a fittings. I have no idea if the whole system was converted properly or not. Time will tell.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=62526&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=62527&stc=1
Should have filled with propane or butane. :nod:
Damn, how'd I miss this thread?? Nothing of value to add right now but I'm going back for a second read:)
Very interesting. I really had no idea there were so many options for refrigerant.
I must say 45 degrees F is just fine with me for now but I will know for sure when it gets 90+ degrees here.
I'm sure you'll be fine. One of the huge advantages of some of the other refrigerants is that you can get away with a smaller condenser core. Some of the more modern designs would lend themselves very well to a Duracool setup which allows you to retain the AC while keeping the airflow to the rad high enough when running on a road course etc. I'd really like to keep the AC in my Lancer and still run it in autocross, or the super spirited runs at SDAC for the road rallys.
sorry. there are top hat adapters for that too.
https://www.amazon.com/14mm-ring-lon.../dp/B01N6M7WJM
Brian
Small update. In the last week or so I have relocated the boost and afr gauge to the cubby hole just above the radio. I really didn't like them hanging off the dash the way they were.
I got the radio back lighting fixed. One of the pins on the harness at the radio had the spring piece snapped off inside it.
Ostrich installed and running. Playing with MPTune to get a feel for what changes do to how it runs.
Re sealed the injectors.
Working on re configuring the vacuum lines under the hood. Someone before me put a grainger valve on it and reconfigured things. I'm putting the boost control back to the solenoid and letting the SMEC handle it.
Replaced the 2 dome lights and 2 tail gate lights with LEDS. I don't care for the LED look but I do not like how hot the incandescent bulbs would get when I sit in the van working on stuff.
Fixed the right turn signal. The switch would cancel when turning the wheel to the right. It was very annoying.
Found 5 of 6 cluster needles in the wrecking yard that were actually still orange! Swapped all out except the speedometer needle.
New calipers + pads. I had one hell of a noise when going over bumps prior. I was convinced it was the struts banging around. Extremely annoying. Turned out to be the left caliper. It was missing the pin isolator and a couple anti rattle springs. Holy crap does that caliper make noise without those things.
Took apart right door. Greased the window channels + regulator tape. It works about 200% better now. Full speed up and down. Prior it would go down slowly and not go up without help.
Question for those that read this far. When doing the socketing of my SMEC I managed to smash this component even though I tried like hell to avoid it. It just crumbled. The computer seems to work fine without it. Any ideas what I smashed? It's grey and mounted right next to the chip.
See picture for the missing part.
Thanks!
I put the grainger and the vac lines on that car for the previous owner. Configured to be a short as possible for best response. If you want/need more of the poly line that's on it you can find it here: https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...bing_-a-_Hoses
It's less than $20 for 100ft of it. Don't let it touch the hot cylinder head. It's melting point is high enough that if it has air around it in the engine bay you're fine, but if it touches a 180 degree+ piece of metal it'll melt shut. So routing is important. But I like it better than the factory nylon which you can also get on that site.
Good luck with the SMEC boost control. As soon as I went to a different turbo than stock it would no longer control boost and the instructions out there to work aren't very helpful. I went back to a grainger on my car at 20lbs of boost. It was just much simpler and with shorter lines.
FYI, srt injectors will throw an injector code because they are high impedance. you can mask the CEL activation for injectors in MPTune though.
they are 55lb/hr at 58psi. rc engineering has a fuel pressure / flow calculator online.
http://www.rcfuelinjection.com/technical
it should be 55lb at 58psi and 53.56lb at 55psi.
here are the fuelbatteryoffset values.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/ph.../injectors.jpg
disregard the fuel pressure in that chart though. i believe it is wrong.
i believe its the thermistor for the battery temp calculations.
i dunno what value it is though. you could rob it off of another board though.
Brian
Yep. Should be the thermistor. I too have broken one, and I did rob it from another board to replace it. Worked like a charm.