What it does is affect the regulator valve and bleed off pressure in forward gears so the valve can act like it has a higher spring in front of it, so reverse see's normal pressures.
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Hmm... Looks like I'll have to bust out the fluid diagrams to properly wrap my head around this...
Mike
I have a pdf of the ATSG i can email to whoever is doing the KC article or whoever just wants it.
I think a good how-to on getting that rear sprag race out of an old case and using it as an 'install tool' would be a big help. I have seen some people say just dont remove that if you dont need to, but i dont think thats a great policy and plus some people will stand up the case and it will fall out anyway and they'll need to know how to get it back in.
Maybe show both?... I always like having alternatives, especially when the way you're "supposed" to do something isn't working!
I kind of like the Simon approach, if I expect to be into the trans again, it would seem like grinding (a permanent mod) would make things easier, IF it isn't removing material that is needed.
I also like fab'ing up installer tools from old parts, especially if they save time alining things and/or making accurate measurements.
Mike
Well yeah but i still think greasing the springs and rollers in place sucks compared to sliding them off of one race and onto another. Just easier to get right.Quote:
That's why I grind the case down so you can put it in then put the band on after, mucho easier.
Alright, I started an article and I am getting stuff from the website on there. I am at the valve body modifications and I wanted to know the reason for putting the spacer in the shuttle valve and the bypass valve.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/kn...fo&redirect=no there is what I have so far
I would place a warning about Chads mod that it can do more harm than good on a trans that hasn't had the clutch clearance modified.
Front band is adjusted like so-tighten down snug, back off 1.5 turns.
If you have the stock trans cooler in the rad, keep it and run it with the aftermarket unit, running it too cold also damages it. Put the filter BEFORE the cooler.
I was going to add that if you do Chad's mod to a stock transmission you should drill smaller than .042, then start with the line pressure backed off all the way. Then bring in the clutch modifications later.
Another kc article can be made for the "matinence" things like adjusting the bands and TV cable.
What about the vans, the stock cooler is an external unit, I've never seen a failure from too cold of a transmission. I don't live in Canada either though.
Before the cooler if the cooler is new, after if it a used cooler ;)
I really "don't get" using the inline filter. It's like catching debris after it's been through your transmission. I change the pickup filter every time I'm in there. I don't care if debris gets in the pan, that's what the pickup filter is for. If it clogs there, it starves everything, then you KNOW you have a problem, because it won't shift, if it clogs in the cooler line it blocks the lube supply circuit, so you have a problem (Which might not be obvious), then a lube failure a few miles later on everything at once....
Band's and kickdown adjustments are part of the rebuild so they belong in that article. Stock front band adjustment is alot looser than what we said to use. Also, some go one notch tighter, some looser on the kickdown adjustment.
Van's didn't have rad coolers I would guess due to the heat they generate but with my old setup, it wouldn't even hit 100 deg F in the winter. If the cooler is in the rad, it helps keep the temp stable. To each their own.
Ever heard of an oil filter on a car engine? The pan filter is basically to stop large bits, that's it, its a large micron filter, the inline is smaller to catch the finer metal particles that do the most harm.
Its main purpose is to keep from trashing your cooler. A lot of coolers will have internal fins or turbulators which love to catch and hide nasty bits until you've rebuilt the trans, then jump out and kill it!
Of course the "pro" solution to that problem is to replace the cooler after a failure, but being we don't normally operate on a "pro" budget, the in-line filter is the next best thing.
Mike
The inline filter definitely serves a purpose. Like keeping your failing converter from filling your valve body full of tiny particles and sticking your governor and throttle valve. :p
Ahhh, having suffered gunged up valve bodies that's starting to make sense now... I didn't realise they were meant to be high micron.... still would worry about blocking it up, unless it was piss easy to change out/clean.
If you use a magnetic filter there is not a way to flush that stuff out of there. If anything i would be changing it if i had reason to believe the trans was making metal and it was going into the filter.
Well it makes small particles off the frictions all the time, that's what worries me, especially with a fine filter, to my mind it needs as much flow as engine oil and possibly a filter just as large for same service interval.... otherwise, restriction then lube failure.
BTW I've flushed my cooler since it has radius bends, not end tanks.
The filter is meant to be replaced at intervals or if your prudent and race, maybe every month? Anyhow, you'll know its plugging up as you'll notice your temp get hotter due to the lack of flow but it should never get that bad, :p