yeah , I know the coating you refer to
I had a new spectra tank for g-k so I've seen it -thanks for the heads up on that
sounds like the best option for me is sand blasting the old o-e tank - before I open anything up
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yeah , I know the coating you refer to
I had a new spectra tank for g-k so I've seen it -thanks for the heads up on that
sounds like the best option for me is sand blasting the old o-e tank - before I open anything up
Some have like a cheap galvanizing and some tanks have been painted but look like not.
And there could be some stamping lubricant also fouling the surface.
One thing is for sure, any aftermarket tank is made pretty damn cheap.
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As far as quality of tanks, I have not had to replace a Chrysler tank, but my experience wit Spectra Premium has been very favorable, they are Canadian made and seem to be pretty sturdy. I actually have a Spectra Premium oil pan on my new 460 Ford engine, it was a Ford Racing part ordered from Summit Racing as a "Fox body rear sump kit" for engine swaps, it is a late F series factory pan, pickup and dipstick tube and stick with a pan gasket, so was exactly what I needed and every bit as solid as the older one I took off.
my spectra tank was prob 20 years old still in the box but seemed thick enough but yes their coating did seem kinda strange ..almost wax-ie to the touch
an old trick for painting galvanized eavestroughing was to spray and wash them using rattle can engine degreaser as it neutralizes the zinc in the galvanizing
- though welding on gal is still nasty and toxic
i wonder how different later plastic van tanks differ from oldschool metal tanks. if it would be a viable swap.
you would have to mod them for a return but that isnt hard.
i have a rotted out 2000 neon sitting there thats going to go to the JY but first im going to pull the tank before it goes just in case.
Brian
Finally getting around to an update.
Picked Mini up from Brian's shop in early August (2019), and that didn't leave me much time to finish up what I wanted to and get tuned and tested before Hot Rod Drag Week.
The new fuel system looked great and the van then had everything it needed to run higher boost and race with lower fuel levels.
The new tank consists of a narrow and shallow basically rectangular main tank of about 8.5 gals, and a seperated sump that is not totally open to the main tank of about 1 gal.
There are two -10 AN fittings on the rear of the sump, with pushlock hose to a Y fitting (dual -10AN in/-12AN out) to a isolation ball valve, to a 100 micron prefilter, then to the AEM 400lph pump, no check valve, then a 10 micron post filter.
I installed a tee fitting in the engine compartment to be able to attach a hose to transfer fuel.
The fuel pump has a PWM controller (manual control) to reduce fuel pump speed when not necessary.
This arrangement worked very well to transfer fuel to be able to run dedicated track fuel and eliminating blend variance.
With a bit of test driving before drag week, I noticed there was an issue with pump cavitation at times. I really exhausted myself trying to determine the exact cause, and ways to eliminate it before dragweek. Some of what I did helped, but it would still occur at times. This was one reason I was being very cautious at dragweek.
The van did better than I expected and was able to average in the 12's for the week, which I was pleased with. The fuel system provided plenty of fuel, and the cal changes made previously now we're adding way too much fuel.
Following dragweek the van went back to Brian for him to troubleshoot and resolve the pump cavitation. Interesting enough, he found the cavitation was mostly a problem when the fuel got warm, and seemed to be caused by the return line to the tank. Brian spent alot of time setting up a rig with a different fuel tank to test and compare. This approach seem to work well. The other improvement done was to install some fuel cell foam in the sump section of the tank. Luckily with the level sender there was enough access to accomplish this.
Here are some pics.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4caf33fbe7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f012b3957d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f7fcd57314.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c4d1c8c3b4.jpg
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Wow. That's a lot of work. Do you think you're going to be all set fuel wise now?
I'm sure hoping so!Quote:
Originally Posted by cordes
The biggest tuning issue seems to be that I am too rich now, so that is at least the safer way for it to be off.
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Hmmmmm what if you rig something like a trans cooler under the van on the return line. That would help too.
Brian
That is essentially what I was talking about, a way to make sure the pump could draw fuel under hard acceleration, nicely done solution!
That is essentially what I was talking about, a way to make sure the pump could draw fuel under hard acceleration, nicely done solution!
I think any way you can reject some of that heat would help. But, picking up additional heat while be stopped or parked on hot asphalt would be good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo
I was considering a cooler on the return line anyway, but will wait to see how things go to see if will be necessary.
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Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
Brian did a nice job with this!
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