A modification I might regret.
I bought a Forge Motorsport BOV and installed it today. Works fine.
I thought I would like having an aftermarket BOV, but man is this thing annoying. It vents so often, and sometimes it will vent under vacuum changes. It has already started to get on my nerves and I have had it on the car less than 24hrs.
I imagine the Mopar BOV is probably just as annoying considering it is the same spot.
I am seriously debating taking it off soon and putting the stock recirculation valve back in. Anyone have one of these Forge valves and found a way to remedy the constant venting? I am thinking about shimming the spring or getting a higher rate spring in there. Any suggestions?
Re: A modification I might regret.
the problem isn't the BOV it's the tiny turbo. It spools so quick there is constantly a charge in the pipes even when your intake see's vacuum. The solution is to get a bigger turbo :)
Re: A modification I might regret.
lol, I can't believe you don't like the BOV noises. Those are my bread and butter for driving my car or my van
Re: A modification I might regret.
The mopar one is exactly the same. you could order a block off plate from MP and use an aftermarket BOV with the tension set higher.
Re: A modification I might regret.
garrett, drive an SRT for a while. I could see how it's annoying after a while. They'll blow if you just tickle the throttle.
Re: A modification I might regret.
I drove the van for a week with a mitsu and an RFL for a while. I loved it... but I love the sound of a BOV sometimes I go for a drive just to make turbo sounds LOL
Re: A modification I might regret.
There are some bov's that do open under the slightest pressure and have an annoying sound at low boost. I can understand where you're coming from.
Re: A modification I might regret.
i understand him...
more than a year ago, with the 2.5 mitsu turboed engine in the daytona, i really hated that BOV noise, just a slight different in throttle...wooooooooosh
-> 2.2 t3/t4 haha :D
Re: A modification I might regret.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2
garrett, drive an SRT for a while. I could see how it's annoying after a while. They'll blow if you just tickle the throttle.
That definitely has a lot to do with the problem.
However my friend has a small mitsu turbo'd Honda. His car spools up just as quick as mine, but is no where near as annoying when his blows off. His car doesn't blow off during vacuum changes, and the blowoff valve doesn't stay open nearly as long when it does blow off.
During normal driving, the Forge BOV on my car seems to stay open for a long time each time it blows off.
Re: A modification I might regret.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpboost
That definitely has a lot to do with the problem.
However my friend has a small mitsu turbo'd Honda. His car spools up just as quick as mine, but is no where near as annoying when his blows off. His car doesn't blow off during vacuum changes, and the blowoff valve doesn't stay open nearly as long when it does blow off.
During normal driving, the Forge BOV on my car seems to stay open for a long time each time it blows off.
I think its a combination of the location of the bov, the small turbo and the computer control. With the small turbo, even with a little gas it's already started to spool up and build pressure, even if it isn't enough to produce measureable boost in the intake. It get's less annoying after a while and you'll stop noticing it.
Re: A modification I might regret.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboGLH
I think its a combination of the location of the bov, the small turbo and the computer control.
Yes, and you have to remember that it's a surge-control valve, not simply a blow-off valve. The computer uses it to try to prevent and control compressor surge, not just to vent pressure when the throttle plate closes.
Re: A modification I might regret.
I have the Mopar Blue Plate Special. It's annoying.
Anyway.. how did you hook up your Forge WGA? I have had no success at all with aftermarket WGA's.
Re: A modification I might regret.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboGLH
I think its a combination of the location of the bov, the small turbo and the computer control. With the small turbo, even with a little gas it's already started to spool up and build pressure, even if it isn't enough to produce measureable boost in the intake. It get's less annoying after a while and you'll stop noticing it.
Maybe I will learn to like it over time, but it just sounds so weird right now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by contraption22
I have the Mopar Blue Plate Special. It's annoying.
Anyway.. how did you hook up your Forge WGA? I have had no success at all with aftermarket WGA's.
I opted not to use a aftermarket WGA. I hear a lot of guys saying that stage 1 and aftermarket WGA is the way to go. However I also hear the same guys complaining about part throttle boost problems and leaning out. Personally I prefer to keep my driveability. :nod:
Re: A modification I might regret.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpboost
Maybe I will learn to like it over time, but it just sounds so weird right now.
I opted not to use a aftermarket WGA. I hear a lot of guys saying that stage 1 and aftermarket WGA is the way to go. However I also hear the same guys complaining about part throttle boost problems and leaning out. Personally I prefer to keep my driveability. :nod:
Maybe not like it, but not mind it as much. I don't like the blue plate all that much, but it's stopped bothering me so I left it on.
I've probably said this a thousand times over at TD, but I bring it up because it made such a difference with drivability. I'm running a modded T2 wga on the car now and with just a boost controller it had awful drivability, part throttle boost like crazy and was just no fun if you weren't at WOT. I put together a system that lets the computer controll boost up till 11lbs then switches to the BC set at 18-19. If I were to do it over I would use a TPS tap instead to only switch at WOT, but it works in the current setup just fine as the computer limits 1st gear boost and part throttle boost to under 11lbs.
Re: A modification I might regret.
Chris,
Is there a writeup of this controller you made? It sounds interesting.
Re: A modification I might regret.
There is, but I'm having trouble tracking it down. So I put together a quick drawing. (no making fun of my mad skillz in paint)
You set the switch point on the hobbs switch to whatever psi you want the grainger to take over, In my case I used 11psi (approx). I used a vacuum manifold to feed the grainger and the hobbs switch as tapping into the green line before the stock solenoid gave me erratic control, the boost would shoot to 20 drop to 10 and repeat.
You could just feed the grainger from the intake and use a TPS tap to control the the second solenoid. If I were to do it again I would probably do it that way as it's possible if you load the car up while in 4th or 5th gear to shoot past the 11psi mark while at part throttle and have it switch. But 95% of the time it behaves just like it should until you step on it.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17...rollersrt4.jpg
Re: A modification I might regret.
Awesome picture Chris!!!! Really I meant it :thumb:
The TPS switching system sounds more complicated, but more refined too. I was thinking you would need some sort of adjustable voltage controlled switch to do this. Or maybe an adjustable zener diode. Some way to signal your second vacuum solenoid when your TPS voltage is correct for WOT.
Any ideas?
Re: A modification I might regret.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpboost
Awesome picture Chris!!!! Really I meant it :thumb:
The TPS switching system sounds more complicated, but more refined too. I was thinking you would need some sort of adjustable voltage controlled switch to do this. Or maybe an adjustable zener diode. Some way to signal your second vacuum solenoid when your TPS voltage is correct for WOT.
Any ideas?
They make TPS taps for triggering nitrous systems, they're also adjustable as not every car will show a full 5.0v at wot. I would pick up one of those to use.
Re: A modification I might regret.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboGLH
They make TPS taps for triggering nitrous systems, they're also adjustable as not every car will show a full 5.0v at wot. I would pick up one of those to use.
Yup I noticed that too while searching :nod:
I thought maybe there was a more "grassroot" style way of doing it.....aka cheap (this is how you know I am a genuine turbo dodge guy) :p
I'll have to consult one of the electrical engineers when I get to work tomorrow. See if he can come up with a schematic off hand to accomplish the task.
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Re: A modification I might regret.
op amp used as a comparator.... one terminal of the op amp has a ref voltage, other terminal to the tps. hit the ref voltage with the tps and the op amp chages state. little transistor to switch the solenoid and youre all set. thats the theory as i remember it. ill have to look up a circuit.
EDIT i dreamed up a little something.... Didnt try it so I dont know if its correct. maurice, if you can have it looked at, lemme know if someone who has designed circuits recently knows if it will work. the thing im unsure of is the 47ohm resistor... the 47 ohm resistor might cause the solenoid not to function. if so I need to find another transistor that the 2n3904 will switch that will handle the 400ma that the solenoid pulls. I think the coils on those things are 30ohms. EDIT
Brian