Sundance 6g72 "3.0 turbo build thread"(N/A DYNO SHEET pics inside)

If that's the original color, I think it is fairly "rare". 400hp for a single swap with forged internals, etc.? :confused: Seems like a waste to me. I'd up the ante to 600hp. If 400 is your true goal, I'd take off all the single turbo stuff, sell it, get some TT tubular headers and upgraded TT turbos. If everything is too far gone to do that (kinda sounds like it), then a T70 size turbo it WAY overkill for 400hp. Using that turbo for that power goal I'm betting is going to be pretty disappointing to drive.

Baby steps. One goal at a time.

It's a t70 but the comp wheel is really a 60mm on the small side. Not sure why they call it a t70.

Im pretty sure it's got a stock fuel system so 400hp is most likely out of reach. Right now I just want to get it running and driving well before I commit to big power. Also, I'll never switch to twin turbo. I'd rather run my small turbo from the sohc motor.

If I remember right the fuel system is fairly capable once you drop in a supra or walbro pump. Plus that car should have the access panel to pull the pump out for easy changing.

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Originally Posted by Sundance 6g72

Baby steps. One goal at a time.

It's a t70 but the comp wheel is really a 60mm on the small side. Not sure why they call it a t70.

Im pretty sure it's got a stock fuel system so 400hp is most likely out of reach. Right now I just want to get it running and driving well before I commit to big power. Also, I'll never switch to twin turbo. I'd rather run my small turbo from the sohc motor.

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I was just reading about turbine trim sizes last night and stumbled on a diesel forum where they were talking about e-Bay knock-off T70's that were more on the T60 or smaller size. It kinda sounds like that is what you've got.

word is that my turbo was made in Brazil (take that as a grain of salt)

im not afraid of knock off turbos that work. My CX racing turbo is still good to go, its just a lot smaller.


It has a .96 ar exhaust housing too :O

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Originally Posted by Sundance 6g72

word is that my turbo was made in Brazil (take that as a grain of salt)

im not afraid of knock off turbos that work. My CX racing turbo is still good to go, its just a lot smaller.


It has a .96 ar exhaust housing too :O

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I saw that the Brazil turbos were also mentioned in that same thread I stumbled on. It was stated that they are better quality than the Chinese ones and it is speculated that they will last longer.

side note: local junkyard had a super clean 98 neon for sale (auto sohc) and a dodge ares. Both cars were auto and both cars were screaming for a 6g72 a543 to be dropped in them. I think I will do an ares at some point. That thing just screams "drive the ---- out of me in the winter"

I know I loved beating the crap out of my '92 Shadow I had for a while. It was V6 5-speed. It was pretty quick for a total beater (pulled on an RX8).

I think a 3.0 neon would be awesome! I had a 98 DOHC/5-speed coupe that ran low 15's with a few bolt on's, very fun to drive plus aftermarket chassis/suspension on neons destroys pre 95 cars.

Well the neon was my plan but the GT came out of nowhere for a cheep price so I jumped on it. If I dont like it I can sell it and go with something dodge. Id like to try AWD and this car has a lsd in the rear. Going from one 225 drive tire to 3 245 plus a more stable car should be night and day.

I should swap in my 42 (46?) lb injectors because they are bigger than stock VR4 but they are not much bigger.... Not even worth it to run on e85 and I dont feel like pushing the block without running some sort of race fuel or e85.


edit: anyways. Progress. DIYautotune will be modifying my MSII. Its going to be kinda costly in my opinion but more worth it than selling and buying a new MS3 I guess. Ill get the 2 addition spark drivers (3 total) for wasted spark, input for VR4 cranks sensor (this might not be necessary.. im not sure if the board needs modification to accept my crank sensor), table switching (hardware switch), and launch control. GM map sensor input. I was going to do flex fuel but the limited availability of those sensors and their high price has deterred me.

Running the GM 3 bar should allow me to upgrade (if needed) to a bigger sensor and I can run the stock onbaord 2.5bar sensor as a all time barometric pressure correction sensor or whatever people do.

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Originally Posted by MC#4

I think a 3.0 neon would be awesome! I had a 98 DOHC/5-speed coupe that ran low 15's with a few bolt on's, very fun to drive plus aftermarket chassis/suspension on neons destroys pre 95 cars.

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That's been done at least once. The one I'm thinking of had a M90, and then possible a M110 bolted on top of the stock intake and there was a GIGANTIC cowl hood that covered it. There were a few videos of it driving back in the day. Dunno what ever happened to that car. The same place also made all kinds of odd contraptions from FWD Mopar stuff. I want to say it was the Sebring's and their old junkyard that did this stuff.

I have a question for the electrical gurus. My mishimoto radiator has two fans mounted to it. To save on wiring and make things simple, can I wire the fans in series? As in only one fan is powered by the relay and its ground goes to the power on the second fan and then the second fan gets grounded? I know it will work but will it be smart?

With computers, wiring fans in series causes a voltage drop for the fans further down the line but im curious if only two LARGE fans will be impacted enough to warrant not doing it?


Also, Mishimotor specifies a 10amp fuse for each fan but would I use a 20amp if both fans were on the same power lead? I have a feeling the fans can take much more than 10amps in the first place. Normally I would just try it without asking but these fans are $80-100 online (each) so id like to not ruin them haha.

In series, they'll basically run at half speed.... because each fan only sees 6 volts, the 12V is divided between them.

The fuse does not regulate the current to them on a normal basis, it's to prevent damage to the electrical system if the component goes short circuit and demands more current than that.

How many amps do they pull each? If it's less than 20 amps each, I'd just buy a heavy duty 40 amp relay and run them both off it.

How exactly will this save on wiring? Just run one fused (If you really want a fuse/safety before the relay) 30 amp relay and then after your feed wire splits add in two 10 amp fuses. I don't think my Duster's radiator fan has a fuse except the 100 amp breaker.

I wouldn't try in series, I think the fans would run closer to 1/4 speed (1/4 the power will be available (1/2 voltage and 1/2 the current (because of double the resistance)). I would either run them in parallel, or run just one. How big are they? I am running one 14" low-profile fan and it works just fine...

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Originally Posted by c2xejk

I wouldn't try in series, I think the fans would run closer to 1/4 speed (1/4 the power will be available (1/2 voltage and 1/2 the current (because of double the resistance)). I would either run them in parallel, or run just one. How big are they? I am running one 14" low-profile fan and it works just fine...

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I have one installed but if I can fit the second one I will use it as well.


Series saves a slight amount of wiring but nothing that is a deal breaker however, cutting the voltage down like that makes the choice an easy one (parallel). Ill put a fuse before the relay (20amp-30amp) and then run the relay to the fans and just split the wiring once I get to the fans.

edited

Shame, somewhat in same boat, so if anyone is horny for a 1st gen mini to bolt those to...

Those 270* cams I wouldnt sell.. yeah they are for sale lol.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ment&p=1103617