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I am looking to buy a clutch kit for the A523 3.77 transmission, I know it uses the same clutch as the A568 but there are some options out there and I'm not sure which one to buy. There's Standard clutch kit that is made by Alto USA, Valeo, Sachs, Luk, Exedy and a "Duro" clutch kit that uses Valeo clutch disc. Are all of these similar or is there really a big difference? I can get the Standard (Alto) and the Valeo really cheap, so if that would hold up fine for 18psi I will take that.
I like the Luk RepSet clutches personally. I've installed a bunch of them in these cars and haven't had a problem.
If you can get the Valeo cheap, I'd probably do that.
How much power do you plan on making at 18PSI? I would shy away from any stock offering out there. The 2.5 turbo clutches were always just TBI clutches from what I've read. That doesn't instill confidence in me. I had a stock type clutch slipping in my old Daytona with just an MP computer and hard driving. It didn't last long at all.
Like I posted on the other forum. If you're going to run that much boost, I'd go to either FWP or TU and get a TII/TIII hybrid clutch.
I hear from TU that the Valeo needs to be modified to fit or something like that. Have you heard anything about that?Quote:
Originally Posted by iTurbo
Honestly I don't know how much HP I could make. It will have Borg Warner K16 @18psi, +20%'s, 3 bar MAP, Accufab AFPR, BoostButton calibration.. I've heard that the Sachs clutch holds up fine but not sure how much.. Maybe I will try the TII/TIII hybrid..Quote:
Originally Posted by cordes
I haven't heard that, but I missed the part about running 18 psi and your current setup details. I myself have run 18 psi with a mild TII setup in my SL with a Luk RepSet clutch. It always held up fine and made 196 whp/240 wtq on a dyno at 14 psi. In fact it was still in good enough shape that I reused it when I dropped the Masi 16v engine in and it still works just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by 19luis8510
NOT that I would actually recommend this to anyone else. I'm not planning on making any more than about 240 whp, so I'll upgrade to a TU blue plate/6puck clutch when the time comes. I would skip the TII/TIII 'hybrid' clutch and go right for a TU blue plate with a 4 or 6 puck clutch if it were me.
Agreed. I think the extra cash spent is worth the piece of mind that you won't have to pull the trans to do another one.Quote:
Originally Posted by iTurbo
TORQUE is what makes clutch slips, but people often thought HP is the deciding factor making the clutch slip. 250 ft lb of torque seems to be the limit of TII/TIII hybrid, 2.5L can easily exceed 250ft lb of torque even only with 15psi.Quote:
Originally Posted by 19luis8510
Don't bother with Kevlar nor Feramic clutch either, go straight to ceramic clutch. Kevlar doesn't have the coefficient of friction you want for high torque and Feramic wears flywheel and pressure plate way too fast for a street car. I've seen to many issues with sprung hubs so I bought a solid hub clutch disc.
Yes, our Stage II-IV clutches are modified Valeo/Sachs pressure plates. YOU do not have to modify them. The pressure plates are already modified by our clutch guy before they are shipped to you. The modification is what increases the torque capacity of the clutch. If you are keeping your vehicle "stockish" then our Stage I TII/TII hybrid would be a good choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by 19luis8510
Chris-TU
I get it, I thought you said they needed to be modified even for stock replacement. I'm on a tight budget right now since I had to buy some other stuff for the car, I could just leave it with 12psi for the moment until I get a hybrid or a Spec. So in the meantime should I get Valeo or Sachs?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris W
I have a 6 puck on the van. you have to slip it a bit. but it grabs strong. I am use to them from other vehicles i have owned before,. So I am use to the light switch type of action.
My highly ported 2.5 with stock turbo and cam will be a torque monster. I dont see any reason the 6 pucker cant hold it all.
And that's why I chose the TII/TIII hybrid for my build. The Scamp is going to be 98% street driven. I wanted a clutch I could live with on the street, not something with a hair trigger. Besides, my issue is going to be tire grip, not clutch slippage. Pretty sure I'm going to spin the tires long before I slip a clutch. Even though I installed an OBX in the trans....Quote:
Originally Posted by masterjr33
But, I think all of the input given here is going to give the OP something to think about... Nice thing is, there's lots of choices depending on what you are after...
Clutches are not easy to change. As cordes already mentioned, a generic stock TBI clutch is a waste of your money and your time to install it. It would be best to save up for a real clutch as the generic versions are barely capable of supporting stock applications. The 3 bar cal and performance parts you mentioned are going to require you to go with our Stage III clutch at a minimum. What is the weight of the vehicle and will you be running slicks?Quote:
Originally Posted by 19luis8510
Chris-TU
I was in kind of the same situation with my clutch. I didn't have enough money to get a nice clutch and just wanted something to throw in there temporarily. I ended up with a $48 valeo kit. It has a 4 spring hub and I hate it. It goes into oscillations at low speeds with light throttle. I.E. driving through parking lots etc... It slips when in WOT high RPM situations. I have a 3.0l in a van. If you end up going with a cheap clutch like I did make sure you at least get one with a 6 spring hub or you may be sorry. Both are the same price on rockauto but I didn't see the 6 spring one until I had already received the 4 spring. If you can't find a 6 spring disc try a different application in your search. Another heads up, if you buy it from rockauto make sure your ordering the kit with the right spline count. Some cars have both listed or the wrong one listed. The larger diameter clutch is the large spline.