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Yes it is true, i am looking for busted Chrysler part numbered Turbo HEP as I want to determine the root cause of failure.
I did fix one that I received from a local forum member. It worked great after repair on my electronic bench but I need to test on a real car.
Let me know as I would like to have a look over the winter as the garage is now a bit chilly....
I have been curious about this for a while, too. What did you find?
Well only one data point so far but it was exactly what I expected. The copper broke from fatigue inside the wire at the junction as it leaves the plastic casting. This is a poor design and should have some sort of stress relief . As a hack, I have used a weak spring as strain relief and works well for other items such as wall worts in the past.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reaper1
i wonder if using a zip tie as a strain relief would work. heat shrink it to the wire....
Yes it should, good idea, BTW. It would need to be "rigidly" mounted to the case in some way such as RTV, epoxy, goop, E6000 for example.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo
I have also used heat shrink with 3 or 4 layers each in a different length( and diameter) from the object so the strain relief gets thinner and more flexible as you get further away from the object.
Oh, an easy to find weak spring can be found in a retractable ball point pen.
Can you rewire the HEP and use different connectors? Wondering how hard it would be to do. I mean would you do it at the unit where the wires orginate or just replace the connectors?
Yes rewiring is possible but I am guessing the issue is not at the connectors but where the wires enter the hep case.Quote:
Originally Posted by minigts
Anyone have defective units I can test/fix?
I don't believe I have any known dead ones around. To Jon's question, I have switched the factory connector over to a Delphi style connector in the past. Never had a problem with that system, but have since sold the car.
Did you take any pix of the disassembled sensor. I just had one fail in a TBI Shadow (206k on the odo), I took it apart and don't see any obvious damage, so if a wire is broken it must be inside the insulation. The part I can't figure out is where the wires go into the sensor itself. It looks to be cast in plastic? I isn't very soft where you could remove it like the ECU potting. How did you get to the sensor ends of the wiring?
solved this twenty years ago
problem with the hep is twofold
first the teeny weenie wires were a bad call
second and worse was encloseing them in a sleaving that becomes hard as rock with time and heat
the sleaving then causes the little wires to streach to the breaking point
solution
throw the mopar hep in garbage can
go to canadian tire and buy new pick up they carry
WHY??
better wires , better sleaving
nice and soft and rubberie
mmm rubberie...
the hep you're lookin' for has a thicker set of wires that look more like little lamp cords than phone wires (small groove in wires between each wire in sleeving - like lamp cord)
me , being cheep , I have one I pinched from a car at the wreckers .. about 22-25 years ago
I've used it in every car I've driven regularly since about 96
and it's in my 87 charger right now .. which had broken hep wires when I bought it
factory heps are / were always garbage
proof --is I haven't had any reason to buy one since I stopped using the o-e ones
and here in 2018 the wires on that old free hep are still in perfect condition where they go into the actual pick up plate and the backs of the plugs as is the rubber sleeving on them
no cracks , no splits , nothing's pulling apart , still just like on day one
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Bx...hLhbPk7bp5tx0NQuote:
Originally Posted by DOHCRT
The wire did bust on the inside of the insulation, not at the hall effect sensor itself but at the edge of the black plastic HEP assembly were the wires go to the outside work. In my picture, the edge of the piece of paper is pointed to the edge I refer to.
there can be a lesser cause of the little wires failing too - and this one you DO have to watch out for
- mechanics at the dealership with sharp little points on their test lights
service guy pushed my already new hep across the counter , said you needed this to
I looked at it , saw the little copper strands hanging out of the pin hole in the sleeving and said that's odd , it worked yesterday and on the way over .. before you broke the wire with your test light
and
no..
I am NOT paying you 98 bucks for another when I already have a new one which you're going to replace 'cause you broke it
.. not me
so back to topic
there's a couple of ways those wires get broken
one's a sham