SDAC 2015 ...............
<font size="5">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SG5kQQMJBE
Printable View
SDAC 2015 ...............
<font size="5">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SG5kQQMJBE
I'm figuring it's either in the eighth or he built a carbon fiber 7/8 scale replica that weighs 1200lb gassed up.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...78960a871f.jpg
Dad and I worked on an an aluminum bracket to mount the transmission cooler and the stiffen up the core support.
Not sure how I missed this but holy mother of god, some of the car porn in here is ridiculous, :hail: :hail: :hail:
Picked up the cylinder head from Steve last night. Should be getting ready to slide the engine in relatively soon.
8 valve right?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...-p4EzWDiE#t=43
So today's lesson.
Using a 75mm TB for a 5.0L Ford.
Picked up a new IAC for a 1991 Mustang and a connector. Wired the connector into the MS harness. I did't have the throttle body on hand because my father had it as he was working on a cable bracket.
Went to test fit everything today. 1993 Mustang IAC interferes with the intake manifold. Happen to have another IAC from a '99 Explorer 5.0. That clears the intake but the connector is different. $25 for a pigtail connector!
Moving along though.
F-idle stuff? Really tired of the mopar 4 wire. Every time I go for a test drive mine seizes up when it gets hot. Turn off constant moving and it gets stuck or doesn't respond. Went through 5 valves before one would even work on constant moving. 4 wire also wastes a lot of Megasquirts functions.
How does yours bolt on? The 4.6L Modular Ford TB doesn't have a valve on the TB and thats annoying :(
Here is the Mustang IAC.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=54686&stc=1
This is the Explorer IAC.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=54685&stc=1
I was going to go with a 4wire. Even bought an adapter to use the GM 4 wire on the Ford TB, but after reading that the Ford style PWM idle control is easier to tune, I decided to stick with that.
I skipped the IAC, 1100 idle and good to go. That being said I also never drove it in the cold.
I had it capped off or just not functional but I tried to get fancy with it. 4 wire works great in closed loop until it freaks out with heat. I don't know what control strategy our OEM ECU uses. I had only tested closed loop while parked. Drove it to get stored at my house and the freakin car got stuck idling over 2k while on the freeway.
Fidle doesn't do closed loop does it? I don't even remember. IMO the reason for idle control is for more cool low rpm cam lope sounds :P Transient response seems better when there is no idle control.
So do you guys think I can get away without idle control at all?
I will have no engine driven accessories (no PS or A/C) But I will have an automatic trans. I'll be using the crane 18 cams and a high-stall converter.
Yes. Mine never did. 3 trips to the far east and all my own running around and never caused a problem. On a cool morning I had to hold my foot on the pedal for 30-60sec but that is it. I used a Mustang 65mm TB that doesn't have an IAC provision right on it so it was one less thing to build and one less spot to find a boost leak.
Typically the US border because my sled dogs don't have passports. It would have been nice to get a bit further south though.
Thank you.
The more reading I am doing about seems to say that timing and fueling are more critical to a consistent idle.
The thing I've heard before about the large ford TBs is that they don't seal super well, so they get quite a bit of bleed air around the plate, so can "work" with the IAC sealed off.
Mine has an "idle" screw.
Mine also has an idle stop screw. What I don't think it has is the large hole in the throttle blade that some 5.0L throttle bodies I have seen seem to have. But as stated, I am sure a small change in the idle adjustment screw will be a big change in airflow.