Has anyone found a source for the door window weatherstrip? I have a some that I picked up at Rossion, but its for the top and sides, looks like it will work, but I'm looking for the lower window scraper part on the bottom edge.
Any ideas?
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Has anyone found a source for the door window weatherstrip? I have a some that I picked up at Rossion, but its for the top and sides, looks like it will work, but I'm looking for the lower window scraper part on the bottom edge.
Any ideas?
im looking too :PQuote:
Originally Posted by player1up
let me know if you find something that works well.
I've dealt with steele rubber in the past. Good folks. I may have to call them up to see if they have anything that's not in their catalog.
The main issue is that it's flocked backed glue on edge trim. It's not just a rubber flap seal or something like that.
Imagine an " h " with the stick pointing at roughly a 45° angle toward the glass.
It's not your typical screw on , clip on type beltline.
Most of the smallish parts on these are off the shelf so I'm hoping that it's just a matter of time before I find it.
For example:
Rear window seal is as1660 ( still made by CRLaurence )
Door seals are st36A ( still made by CRLaurence )
From the numerous calls to suppliers and manufacturers I'm beginning to believe that the seals were custom made.
Manufacturers are willing to make them but require a 2000-3000 foot minimum run and from the huge box of seals I saw down there it seems as that might have been what was done because there was a ton of the stuff.
Did anyone pickup any of the window seals when they were there?
I'm wondering if there were both types in the box and I didn't notice when I bought mine.
If not, the only feasible option is to retrofit something that's readily available...and that's gonna suck
Any idea where the seals were? Or with what stuff? Next time at Rossion I can check it out.
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The seals were in a large-ish box in the containers on the right as you're looking at them.
The seal I have looks like this:
П\ ( <-- flocking on this side ) lip points to the seal opening
The seal I need looks like this
Ц ( <-- flocking on this side ) lip points away from the seal opening ( not to scale, the flap is about 1/2" long )
Ok. I am hoping to run up there this week.
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Here's what I've found out so far.
Rigid exterior beltline will bend but not enough to match the rear swoop up. Adapting any sort of completely straight METAL rigid molding is out.
It's a damn shame too because the exterior molding from a 90's cherokee has the right depth and flap length.
The inner beltline of all of the cars I checked is completely rubber and adapts easily to the rear curve...BUT the flap tends to want to ripple if it's too long and rubber is almost too flexible.
I'm working this on a few different fronts:
I'm still hoping to find something that's easily adaptable but baring that, the idea of mating 2 moldings isn't out of the question BUT after today's yard trip I have 2 new candidates ( late 90's s10 and tahoe ) that happen to be plastic and should be able to be heated and molded to whatever I need.
I found a molding that has roughly the same shape on some website and ordered a sample, but it has no flocking ( it can have flocking added to it later )
Stay tuned for updates over the next week or so.
Full size chevy for the win.
Basically the tahoe molding is plastic and can be heated up and molded to fit the car. It has the same flange depth and is pretty close on flap length.
I'll take some pics of the modifications when I get the next set for the actual replacement. This is just a rough in to see if it worked.
The rear detail shows a dent I put in the molding by pressing down on it a little too hard while it was too soft.
Front detail shows the front isn't cut flush and is rounded at the bottom, but I broke a piece off the end when I was trying to bend it the first time without enough heat so I had just barely enough left to make this one so I had to keep the rounded front.
This is the old molding:
http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...psohebykmb.jpg
Modified new molding:
http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...pszvco0jhe.jpg
Front detail:
http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...psanvw5szt.jpg
Rear detail:
http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...pscswkmyjf.jpg
I'll be picking up some new moldings for the final replacement, nailing down the exact year truck and writing up detailed descriptions on the mods, but I think this is a real alternative to having custom sweeps made.
Sorry for the pic links, but for some reason when I try to embed the pics the site locks up
1999 Tahoe, Suburban 4 door: Outer rear door beltline part number 15991899 ( same left and right. I pulled both just for part number verification. )
They're long enough to be cut to length.
The fronts are: Left 15991405 / Right15991406 and are even longer but are a pain to pull out at the local yard because they are captured by the door mirrors and I didn't have enough time at lunch to dig into the door that far. The rears just lift off and are plenty long enough
Since the Consuliers uses the same seal inner and outer, I'm figuring that's what I'll do as well.
A quick google on the part number shows that the rear sweeps are available new for between $50-$80 each shipped.
I picked up 4 rears to use on my car that are soft enough to be usable...AND they were almost free ( I wont feel bad about screwing up a free molding vs cutting up $100 worth of parts ) There were tons of trucks out there, but most of the flaps were ROCK hard.
I'll take a bunch of pics and measurements as I do the final install.
OH, If anyone needs the upper and sides, let me know and I'll get you some, I have better part of 100' of the stuff if not more. It's NOS and a little worbbley from sitting bunched up in a box for 20 yrs but should be good for replacements when it's glued flat.
Awesome. Thanks for the legwork. I'll be in touch as my projects start seeing some form of progress.
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No problem at all. Glad to be able to help. Just let me know what you need.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveSkrab
I can't imagine how hard taking care of these cars would be if each of us had to do it on our own, and big thanks to TM for providing a place for us.
I'll be linking to the pics since either the site or my pc is wiping my post when I try to embed them.
Since one side of the GM moldings is too long we need to get rid of that. Just score with a knife and break it off. This makes the inner part of the U channel the same length as he outside.
http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...psiwttxx2r.jpg
http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1lrjo9jt.jpg ( No, I did not use my counter top to cut ;) )
I don't think it interferes with anything inside the door, but if you leave it long it's almost impossible to get the right bend.
This is what it'll look like when it's the same length on both sides of the U
http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...pszvco0jhe.jpg
The front of the molding gets relief cut to allow the vertical molding to "die" into/behind the beltline rather than trying to 45° it, doesn't match up or look good, besides this is the way a lot of car manufacturers do it.
http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...psyt1er3ot.jpg
The phone pic is pretty crappy but the piece of paper says heat and stretch radius. If you don't stretch the U portion, the flap will bunch up and look like crap.
Basically you heat from below ( blow up into the U with the heat gun on LOW SETTING ) and pull while putting the bend in. I recommend gloves.
http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...pszbz1c2u6.jpg
This is the difference between stretched and not stretched. Notice how the flap on the outer molding is all wavy. Don't worry, that's still the test piece and is shown as an example of how not to do it.
http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...psrva1x7if.jpg
Tips:
If I were to make a bunch of these, I'd make a metal template for the curve, would have been a lot easier to bend and let cool.
Remember, these cars were built by hand and have...some irregularities... don't try to use the one you just made as a template, use the car.
The plastic moldings are pretty resilient and can be heated and cooled quite a few times. Go easy with the heat gun so it doesn't melt the plastic.
I used the weather strip rubber from the sliding door area of a 2006 era dodge mini van on mine a few years ago,
That works for the actual opening. Seal attaches to the car opening.
This is for the beltline / window scrapers / fuzzies
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny