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Wasn't there a company out there that was reproducing OEM style brake hard lines with the rock guard for our cars, or at least the L-bodies?
I've been replacing the original brake hoses on my new GLH and I've already snapped one of the hard lines due to the flare nut seizing to the tube. I have a bad feeling this is going to keep happening as I progress on this project no matter how much I douse everything with PB Blaster..
Eiker (GLHS069) should be able to tell you who he got his stainless lines from for his clone GLHT. PM him. In the meantime, use heat wrench combined with penetrating oil, and go slow.
Todd
Thanks Todd, I'll send him a PM. By 'heat wrench' do you mean like a MAP gas torch?
I sprayed every single brake line fitting with PB about a week ago....I thought all was going well and when the flare nut threads finally popped loose I thought I was in the clear....but then then it fell off thanks to the tube twisting apart being siezed to the nut. Damn. Hard to tell it's happening with the rock guard covering it up.
if you can find someone who never gets their oil changed you might want some of it
last year when I had to do the brake hose on my truck I turned the front wheel so I could get behind it to test if the bleeder was going to come lose for me
it wouldn't budge so I pulled the dipstick out of the motor and put a couple of drips of oil on the bleeder screw
two days later it came out with ease.. no effort required
the truck hadn't had an oil change in 17-20 000 KM's at the time (my year in a hotel) so it might be kinda acid-ie
Jeremy, Map gas at a minimum. Get them good and hot (red) and let them cool a bit until they stop glowing. Once you get them to break free, penetrating oil can then work it's magic. You just need to go back and forth slowly until they come out. You need to be careful when heating fittings as brake fluid will easily boil in the lines. Open the bleeder screw if you can so too much pressure doesn't build up. They have a tendency to pop and hot brake fluid sprays out. It will usually give you about a second or two warning that something is going south (lol) before it lets go. Just wear some safety glasses and preferably a long sleeve shirt and you'll be okay.
Todd
Be careful with the heat. I've had them blow up before. I've found that a bit of heat with a good dose of Kroil will get them off. If they're really rusty you may as well plan on replacement.
The disasters start at around 2:00, but I did get the fitting off without damaging the hard line.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DumJbBzE1fU&t=23s
I just asked this on FB not too long ago. Yes, ther was a company that was making our hard lines, but when I went to find them again, they don't show them in their catalog. I have been slacking and haven't contacted them to find out if they still can make them , but they just aren't shown in the catalog.
Jeremy,
Greg Thewes might have the rear lines still available I cant remember who we went with. The front 2 lines I believe we went with Classic Tube, I'd have to double check receipts at home.
Quote:
Originally Posted by iTurbo
Thanks so much guys. I'm kind of in the midst of brake line horrors right now with the car and would totally spend the cash to have nice OEM like lines rather than the NAPA prefab stuff. I did use the NAPA prefab lines on my Shelby Lancer and they have held up great for the last 10 years. I even called around to the local 'yards but nobody has an L-body so I may have to go to Denver..