Who has changed or removed their Consulier intercooler?
Tips on doing this? How to?
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Who has changed or removed their Consulier intercooler?
Tips on doing this? How to?
I've removed mine, it's a pain in the series 2 car. Unless you have some luck with a ratchet/socket/universal that some how fits, it takes a 7/16 wrench and 1,000,000 1/8th turns, because of space constraints.
Is there a panel from inside the wheel well to get to it? I could see one.
I just had mine out a few days ago.
Driver rear wheel gets removed.
Inner wheel well cover gets removed. Most likely the riv nuts will be rusted on the bottom 2 and you'll have to grind them out.
There are 4 studs that are in the car that holds the intercooler. I had to remove the 2 bolts that hold the fender pass thru flange in order to get enough wiggle room to pull the intercooler off the studs even with the hoses lose.
And Deryk is right...I'm learning to HATE all of the fine thread bolts on these cars ;) but I used a stubby ratchet and a gear drive socket
Decided to change the intercooler today.
1. There is a panel to take off inside the left rear wheel well. Only six 10/32 bolts to remove it.
2. Here is the panel
3. On the back side of the panel was written #38 for some reason.
4. This is what is inside behind the panel...intercooler and oil cooler.
5. Oil cooler and lines
#6 The new and the original intercoolers side by side. New one on the right.
#7 Fins look the same to me.
#8 The original one had a rubber strip between it and the oil cooler. So I thought I should add one to the new one.
#9 Found the right stuff at NAPA.
#10 Was a ----- putting the new one in. But it's in.
#11 Went to the store to get the rubber stuff from NAPA so stopped by the hardware store and bought new stainless steel bolts and washers.
Finished!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny
I think that number should correlate to the build order. My car is stamped "Race Car 21" and inside the doors and a bunch of panels they wrote "21" with a sharpie.
This whole number thing still makes me laugh.
Johnny and I have talked about this issue for years.
You would think in an organized shop the hull number would match the VIN ...for reference at least.
But as we all have found that is not the case....not saying they were disorganized but.
My car has a 25 at the end of the VIN but has 44 on all the parts.
Imagine calling Consulier Ind. for parts.
VIN's are typically arbitrarily assigned. The Shelby cars don't follow any sort of "order" regarding VIN versus the assigned Shelby plate number.
If you were issued 100 VIN's by the government.
Wouldn't it make sense to match the hull to the VIN.?
If you thought you were going to get assigned new vin's every year.. and build thousands of cars, maybe not.
Build a sports car that weighs 2000lbs.
1. It will out run everything.
2. It will get 30mpg.
3. Everybody will want one.
Two out of three aint so bad.
Paraphrasing Warren there.. ehehe.
I thought there was some sort of algorithm which would produce the car number from the vin number? Is it just that I'm the only guy who doesn't have the list?Quote:
Originally Posted by Reaper1
Yeah, This is kinda goofy IMHO too, but only the last 6 digits are car unique according to the feds. I wonder if some of the exotic manufacturers start at 01 every year.Quote:
Originally Posted by GTP#44
It makes the most sense to use vin ending in 000001 for car #1 and so on, but that's not the case, for example my vin ends in 01, but my car is #22 ( based on build list and markings ) and decodes to a 1990.
I think its just one more thing that adds to the oddity and uniqueness of the cars.
I asked my honey Jill about the VIN's ,she was the V.P. for all the MT900 builds ....(that is where I got my car from.)
She just laughed .
She said it would be really difficult to match the hull number to the VIN
Because not all cars that were built there got completed in order.
Maybe #44 got finished before #42 so it got a lower VIN
"Cordes" Johnny's site has a list of VIN's.....www.consuliergtp.com