Rear wheel bearing issues

I'm trying to install a big brake package on my kid's Daytona ES. I'm getting two different options for the rear inner bearings, a SET46 or a SET39. Is it just a situation where I have to match up the numbers on the existing bearings to determine which I need?

Also, has anyone run into a situation where the hub may have been machined for a larger bearing race? On one of my rear hubs, the race literally just drops into the hub, with maybe 1/32" of play. Race number is LM12711, which matches what came out of both hubs, plus two other outer races I had on the wall and both of the new outer bearings. All are loose in one hub, but seem correct for the other hub (I haven't pressed them in yet).

I've never had a hub that seemed machined.

I just did the rear wheel bearings on my 89 CSX and I believe it was a set 46.

spindles are hardened thus you would not machine them
or,
acid dip a knuckle with an attached or cast on spindle as the acid removes the hardening too

perhaps the sizing difference is in the part sets
berings set ..cup + cone as matched parts

are you using a cone or cup of a different size from a diff mfg or set maybe?

Both hubs were taken from a '91 LeBaron GTC along with everything else to do the big brakes on the '89 ES. Both of the races I removed say Koyo LM12711; both of the new bearings are Timken LM12711 and the two races I had hanging on the pegboard (which came out of my '91 Iroc) are SKF LM12711. They all fit loose on the one hub and seem just right on the other. I always buy Timken when possible with SKF as my second choice. I can still use one of the original hubs off the ES, I'm just confused why this one hub is so different.

Okay, so what I found today is that both Set39 and Set46 bearings use the same outer cup JL26710. So my only guess is maybe the I.D. of the cone is different. I haven't found specs for the Set46 yet, but the I.D. on the Set39 cone is 32mm. I'll compare them when I get a chance and see if there's a difference in how they fit the spindle.

I had a race come loose in my Rampage, I staked it in place and it came loose again after about 6 months. I replaced the hub and converted to discs and haven't had a problem since. I think, for whatever reason the interference fit of the race and hub gets loose and there really isn't a good permanent fix for it. The hubs are pretty universal across drum and disc cars, so it would really be easy to just replace the hub.

Pretty sure it's a SET 46 based on the LM12711 race number. Looked it up via Timken and it makes sense.

https://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-...m12749-lm12711