89 Daytona shelby 2.5. I'm get a code 13. I'm pretty sure it's the sensor under the map sensor. Anyone knows how to by pass it with out get more problems.
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89 Daytona shelby 2.5. I'm get a code 13. I'm pretty sure it's the sensor under the map sensor. Anyone knows how to by pass it with out get more problems.
You can bypass the baro read solenoid without any real problem unless you live in a very mountainous region.
Ok so do I just unplug it and run the vacuum line straight to the map sensor? And will that get read of the code.Quote:
Originally Posted by cordes
I don't know if it will get rid of your code 13, but it won't hurt while trying to figure it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nameless
A mity vac aren't too expensive and will help you diagnose any vac leaks in a system. The baro allows the car to read barometric pressure and adjust fueling to match which can vary with elevation as well as warm and cold fronts moving through the area. I'd use the mityvac to determine if the baro is leaking and just fix it other than just by passing it.
I know there are no vac leaks.and I'm sure it's the baro sensor. I would really like to replace it but can't seam to fine a New one if you can point me to wear I can fine one.
The baro sensor and the MAP sensor are one and the same unit. The MAP sensor normally reads the intake manifold vacuum/boost readings. The baro solenoid is hooked up (by vacuum lines) between the MAP sensor and the intake manifold. That solenoid has a vacant barb on it which is open to read atmospheric pressure. Every few seconds, the solenoid gets energized so the MAP can see the atmospheric pressure. Then it goes back to normal, reading the manifold pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nameless
Russ Knize's MiniMopar.net has much info regarding this and other codes. http://minimopar.net/fault/code13.html
Barry
Ya I understand that but the barometric pressure sensorn sends volts to the ecm to tell it what the barometric pressure is. That's what I believe is the problem. All vacuum lines have been replaced and I even changed the map sensor .only reason I'm worried about the code 13 is I have read it can cause the ecm to go into limp mode.
That's not how it works. The baro read only functions as a valve to allow atmospheric pressure to the MAP every so often. It will throw a code if you unhook it electrically, because the computer is looking for the resistance in the coil of it. The code 13 is a big problem, as inaccurate MAP readings can damage your engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nameless
Well I'm hoping it's just gummed up after reading that link on how to repair it.I'll try to ungum it in the morning.and let you guys know how that goes and if it's clicking or not.
Just run the vacuum line directly to the map sensor, leave the baro solenoid plugged up. If it goes away, the solenoid is bad. You can either find a replacement, or just leave it hooked directly to the map sensor. I ran mine on the Lebaron like that for 4 years, no issues. And I did mountain runs more than once.
I've always wondered how much of a difference it would make with a serious elevation change. Thanks for that info.Quote:
Originally Posted by Force Fed Mopar
Ok so I by passed the barometric pressure sensor this morning.and codes gone. I'm going to try and fix the sensor still.if I can't I'm going to try and find one. Thanks for all the help.and cords thank you for the link. That really helped the article I read before was totally misinformation.
It’s not a barometric sensor.
It’s a solenoid.
Just an electronic valve that opens and closes.
When it is open the MAP sensor reads the barometric pressure instead of the intake manifold pressure.
So the map sensor is the baro sensor when the engine is off? I ask because that is how GM's do it.
The Map checks the baro on decel and at idle, it's why you get that misfire during idle.
Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2