Is it still good with the alternator field coils off??
Printable View
Is it still good with the alternator field coils off??
from experience I know the tps can go without code
from reading I understand so to can the speed sensor
reading the first paragraph of your first post I note it drive differently when you push your foot further down .. using a less traveled portion of the tps sensor (????)
like the gauge dimming in your cluster when old might only work at the brighter settings because the little coil in it is burned up or worn from the contact
Miles, I never actually removed the wires for the field coil, I disconnected the main output wire. I should put it back to stock for diagnostic purposes. Maybe wire in a toggle switch for diagnostics from the inside of the car.
The tps is reading properly on the scanner and doesn't really seem tps related. It's running rough at all times including idle when it acts up.
Oh want is the O2 reading when acting up?
My DD was acting up when I decided to change the O2 just for giggles as the ECU had no codes. A new NGK O2 fixed the issue. Detail are on this site..but I could not find in 5 minutes searching.
When acting up, the o2 cycles as expected on the drb2. I went after the source and went after the field coil part of the alternator. Basically,I removed the fan for access and wired in an interrupter switch to the field coil. BINGO !!! Thats' exactly it. I ran the wires long enough to reach into the car , if needed.
The car acts up, I flip the switch to open the field, and the car runs perfectly (obviously not charging). Flip the switch back and stumbles return.
So.... I'm a SMEC guy. Is the voltage regulator in the LM or PM? OR just wire in an external regulator and call it a day?
it's in the pm
just add a regulator
mine were easy to figure out .. the car died when the battery did
It's pretty easy to switch to an internally regulated alternator too.
I'll be searching for an external regulator today if any stores are open on this Canadian long weekend.
fyi Standard auto wreckers seems to have their u-pick up and running again
drove past last week there was customers parked along the street once again
been a long two years without handy parts seven min away..
Good to know standard has re-opened! I picked up a used PM today and I'll install it tomorrow, but keep the bypass switch just in case. I'll keep this updated over the next couple days.
All,
The common failure in the PM, regarding voltage regulation, is the solder joint at the regulator itself.
It's typically easy to find because the heat discolors the impregnated coating.
Once cleaned, they can be re-soldered and sealed with non-conductive silicone for many more years of use.
Worth noting is the need for air-flow through the PM.
There are many cone filter and other air-flow changes that eliminate air-flow through the PM and that contributes to them being short lived due to heat build up.
Therefore, it's always important to have adequate air-flow through the modules designed around having it.
This includes SMEC and SBEC applications as well.
5digits, I've seen many voltage regulators fail to charge, but this causing a miss fire is new to me. Do you think it's really just a faulty soldier connection?
re power modules
"worth noting"
if you're having serious issues with a power module DON'T leave the battery connected
when there's a power module in the garage that is connected to power .. like a ford cruise control switch , a smoke detector in the garage that's wired into the ones in the house is a good idea
I dropped the hood of my turbo z shut and sat at the desk in front of it
good thing I haven't gone in the house for the night instead
because a few seconds after I sat down
SMOKE STARTED POURING OUT from behind the headlight
so , not a lot of faith in power modules round my place
+ , 2 cars , probably 6 PM's over the 6&4 years I had either
one smec car , never had a bad regulator .. ever in 5 years for that car
Miles, I know 5 digits history in this community. I guess I wasn't clear enough in my question. I want to know if this failure and symptoms are normal, instead of the failure to charge.
Failure of the component itself will caused a failure to charge, assuming it fails in the open position. A Bad solder joint can cause all sorts of bizarre behaviour, If the component has a bad solder joint at a ground point, it could cause a changing voltage as the inside parts reference voltages to ground. This is the same reason that if the car acts weird we always recommend people to check their grounds before going any further. This time we are checking inside the PM.
Not that I'm going to pursue this further, because it doesn't add to the thread, but this charged properly. On the gauge, using a dvom, on the scan tool, it hit the target and kept the battery charged.
New (used) power module took care of this problem for 2 days straight, so I'll call it a well - diagnosed repair. THANK YOU ALL!!!