'89 CB Crank Sprocket Removal

Hi all,

I know this has come up quite a bit in the past, but I'm hoping for some current information on it.

I'm having my 89' CB TII rebuilt and my mechanic can't get the crank sprocket off of the shaft.

Is the official puller still available anywhere? If so, I'd rather just go that route and pick one up.

If not, please send some help my way as we can't move forward with the rebuild until we get this thing off.

Thanks in advance, let me know if there's any other information you guys need and I'll try to get it for you.

Kind Regards,
-Zach

There is a puller for it. You could also make one pretty easily if you can cut metal and or weld. I'm quite taken aback that a mechanic can't get it removed. Yikes.

Thanks for the reply, Cordes.

Do you know where to source the factory puller for it?

I remember fighting with the thing for hours throwing together different combinations of hardware when I yanked it off a decade ago..it was really stuck on there.

I know my mechanic has tried a few different pullers/configurations and bent bolts trying to get that sucker off. He's knowledgeable and experienced so I'm not worried about his competence, but he probably doesn't want to spend half a day trying to remove one part lol.

Common block crank gear can't be pulled off with a typical steering wheel puller in my experience. I broke one doing that. I made one with some steel, maybe 3/8 thick. Can't remember. Basically cut the steel in a circle. Drill a hole in the middle. Weld a nut to the middle hole and get a long bolt for the nut. Then drill 5 holes that match the 5 holes in the gear.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...meor7iWmnbQ_tK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thedon809

Common block crank gear can't be pulled off with a typical steering wheel puller in my experience. I broke one doing that. I made one with some steel, maybe 3/8 thick. Can't remember. Basically cut the steel in a circle. Drill a hole in the middle. Weld a nut to the middle hole and get a long bolt for the nut. Then drill 5 holes that match the 5 holes in the gear.

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I used 1/4" plate back in the late eighty similar to yours, Works great the half dozen times I used it.
I do find the use of transmission fluid or PB plaster or similar helps with disassembly.
I also like to cover the crank hole with a piece of cut rod with an OD just slightly smaller than the ID of the sprocket.

It looks like it is Miller Tool C-4685 to remove it. Now that's something else I'll end up making.

Here is another home made one for you.
Todd

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ts-and-washers

I didn't need any special tool, but I had the space.

http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe...nkpuller03.jpg

Even a regular balancer puller will take it off if you use longer bolts. Make sure that your mechanic is either using a pin or the crank bolt to push off of. The way the crank sprocket is made it fits over the end of the crank snout and covers it completely, but there is a raised area over the bolt hole that looks like its the end of the crank and lots and lots of people mistake that for the end of the crank and try to push off of that. End result is it doesnt come off and end up with stripped threads or a broken sprocket. Like i said ive always used a regular balancer puller with the longest bolts, its a bit awkward but it does work.

Hey guys,

Sorry for the late reply, life kinda got away from me.

Update: I was able to pull the crank sprocket off using a spare crank pulley I had laying around. It fought me the whole way, but the deed is done.

However..my mechanic notified me of a new issue I need some help with.

When he was doing the tear-down of the engine, he suggested getting a crank kit. I explained that the '89 TII forged crank is extremely rare and I would be surprised if he found the correct one, but he assured me he located one with the same casting number, forged, the whole works.

He proceeded to balance the crank, did a beautiful job of it and got it to within 3/10 of a gram, started assembling the engine, and then realized that the new crank is NOT a total match to my stock.

The snout of the crank and the seal surface are not the same size. Here are our measurements.


New crank:

Snout: 0.902"
Seal surface: 1.375"

Here's what I measured on my original crank:

Snout: 1.0035" (25.54mm)

Seal surface: 1.1255" (28.51mm)


Can anyone identify what crank he may have just installed into my engine based on this? And please, is there a way to make it work for my '89 TII CB engine?

I'd like to make it work if it's possible, as the crank is already balanced and installed into the block. However, if it simply won't do, I'm going to have a very awkward conversation with my mechanic as I did warn him about my crank, and will NOT be paying him for parts or labor on that.

As always, I appreciate the community and knowledge you kind folks constantly share. Looking forward to your replies.

Thanks,
-Zach

I don't know the measurements but if it's different, it's probably a non common block crank. He should have compared them before doing anything. No reason not to turn the original crank .010/.010 if needed. Woulda been cheaper.

My original crank has been turned once before already, and he found this kit for $225 through one of his suppliers. Bearings were included, and having a spare crank sounded like a win-win. However, that was my first thought..why the heck didn't he just compare the two side by side, ya know?

Needless to say, I'm pretty frustrated right now.

Yup your machinist bought himself a forged steel early block crank. NOT gonna work in your engine. Had one guy on this forum weld his up, machine it in several areas, to put into a CB. Cost... drum roll please... about $1250 IIRC. IMO, that machinist should be on the hook for selling it to recoup the funds and not you. That is what happens when you hire a machinist that screws together SBC or Fords. They all think they can put together a 4 cylinder with their eyes closed. I think your guy literally did that!
I just partially disassembled a fully assembled but un-fired engine put together by some guy and his Dad who was a auto mechanics teacher. There were so many things wrong with it, it needs to be completely disassembled and everything checked. Locating pins in deck of block, optional I guess. Lets try to put a CB crank sprocket on an early block, ARP head bolts that bottomed out in block rather than tighten cylinder head down. Buys Chinese head then sticks a bunch of money porting it and putting in performance valvetrain. Intake bolts that wedged up against headbolts because they were too long. Round-tooth sprocket on crank and aux. shaft, but square tooth on camshaft? Huh? List goes on and on.
Todd

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4 l-bodies

Yup your machinist bought himself a forged steel early block crank. NOT gonna work in your engine. Had one guy on this forum weld his up, machine it in several areas, to put into a CB. Cost... drum roll please... about $1250 IIRC. IMO, that machinist should be on the hook for selling it to recoup the funds and not you. That is what happens when you hire a machinist that screws together SBC or Fords. They all think they can put together a 4 cylinder with their eyes closed. I think your guy literally did that!
I just partially disassembled a fully assembled but un-fired engine put together by some guy and his Dad who was a auto mechanics teacher. There were so many things wrong with it, it needs to be completely disassembled and everything checked. Locating pins in deck of block, optional I guess. Lets try to put a CB crank sprocket on an early block, ARP head bolts that bottomed out in block rather than tighten cylinder head down. Buys Chinese head then sticks a bunch of money porting it and putting in performance valvetrain. Intake bolts that wedged up against headbolts because they were too long. Round-tooth sprocket on crank and aux. shaft, but square tooth on camshaft? Huh? List goes on and on.
Todd

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I like this story but I am not surprised

Everything Todd says is totally correct, there are more dud mechanics than dud Turbo-Mopars.

No disrespect to mechanics as most are probably competent.

The trick is to know one is in new territory & proceed knowing one is in new territory.

That being said there is one possibility, with its own pitfalls, even if it's successful.

Previous 2.2 (1988 older) blocks were flat where the front seal covers the crank snout.

Common blocks were machined or recessed to accept chain driven balance shafts.

The recess for sprocket and chain required a specific 1989 up crank seal retainer.

There were a few "flat faced" common blocks that could accept the 1988 seal retainer.

If by some miracle your 1989 block is "flat faced" possibly you could run that crank.

It's not over!! the block will need new holes drilled/tapped to accept the older retainer.

If one accomplishes this successfully then you need a square tooth crank sprocket.

Then you need (1988 & older) square tooth cam/intermediate sprockets and belt

Still a couple of minor pulley issues depending on crank sprocket acquired.

If possible, hopefully Todd can verify, or not, and correct/complete my post.

I'm an old dumum where my pal Todd is the best Turbo-Mopar guy on the planet.

I have 2 unique flat faced Common Blocks, 1 in my car and 1 missing the main caps.

Hopefully you get the correct crank and make sure your oil pump hole is ported.

Hopefully your oil restrictor and locating pins aren't among the missing.

Thanks
Randy