Printable View
So, what are we doing for the axle carrier bearings?
I can’t imagine we’re using 30+ year old bearings, are we?
Is there anyone reproducing them?
Is there a bearing that can be installed that works?
I’m going to take the couple assemblies I have and see what I can figure out to restore/repair, modify, fabricate, WHATEVER to have more confidence in the part.
Any input is absolutely appreciated.
Thanks, in advance 👍🏻
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Most of us just convert to unequal length axles with no ill-effects.
Sure; that’s one option. And frankly, it might end up being the way to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by contraption22
I’ve driven my L-bodies(2dr. if it matters) with both setups, and found the equal length shafts to have considerably less torque steer. It was still pretty strong, but less for sure.
In inspecting the carrier, it doesn’t appear to be that complex of a part. I’m going to really dig into it and see if I can find an affordable way to replace or modify it.
If I do find an effective way, I’m sure it’ll be great news for a lot of us.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There was someone named Darren L. (unsure of his username) going back many years (around 2010) that made a CNC'd hanger bearing carrier out of aluminum. Did sort of a group buy on them. Everything included. Worked with the larger non L-body mount. Used a readily available HD bearing as the insert. Used a second LH 88-90 axle for true equal length axles. Worked and looked great! I seem to remember someone that bought several of them. PM me for his name. I'm sort of surprised after all these years that one of the vendors didn't add this to their inventory, as it looked relatively easy to make.
Most of the u-joints I've seen failed on high HP cars used a grease able (hollow) u-joint which contributed to their failure. Others just ripped the ears off the cardian joint. Posiible that joint could have been on its way towards being seized when the ears ripped apart.
Todd
I like shadow's idea of a solid intermediate shaft with no U joint
I don't know off hand what hanger bearing he's using for it though
not to much a fan of "an aluminum hanger bracket" as described above though
It certainly was WAY, WAY more robust than what the factory offered. Still used the factory cast iron hanger. Don't use a u-joint on that J-shaft and you better have locating dowels to precisely locate where it is mounted. Disassembly can also be a B__ch too. It works though, as many several factory cars run it that way. Toyota V-6's for one.
Todd
I'm not. Vendor didn't make one because there is no market for them. I had one of those CNC bearing carrier bracket and I drove with it. I was so under-impressed with the equal shafts setup I went back with unequal and sold the CNC bearing carrier.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 l-bodies
I've come to the conclusion that if you're trying to drive a high torque FWD car with one hand while in low gear, on the street, WOT.... just turn your hazard on because you'll be doing lane change in no time.
I did find solution for my torque steer issue. Have your cylinder head ported and install bigger valves. Then you can run lower boost while having higher HP with much less torque steer on the street.
choosing your road surface is the best method of controlling torque steer bar none
I found out that alignment has tons to do with how bad your torque steer is. Yes, of course it always there, but align vehicle right, and you can greatly minimize the white knuckle steering.
I remember Quacks Masi GLHS. After I got the car up and running and before I had it aligned, I referred to it as the death mobile. Lean into throttle 80-90 MPH in 4th gear and make 2-3 lane changes. The fast ratio steering made overcorrecting hard not to do. It was uncontrollable until it had a precise alignment. Add slicks and car then went perfectly straight at the dragstrip.
Looking back through searches it does appear at one time FWD did stock this piece after the initial group buy from Darren. Might call Cindy and see what availability is. There was also some discussion about making some up using the L-body bracket. I guess that would be for guys still using the smaller spline original GLHT/SC 525 Citroen axles.
I'll stick with using equal length axles. That way I only have to stockpile one part # and not two (lol)! I hate it when you jack up the front of L-bodies that use the long pass. axle on the and axle comes to a rest on the lower control arm! It's like WTF?
Todd
If it is the same as H bodies, get one at a junkyard and take it too a LARGE Bearing company in a LARGE city! Now if someone does THIS, Johnny can start making the rubber!
I have an NOS I'll sell one if you are interested.
Depends on what you need to get for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by ajakeski
I’ll PM you.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If Andy's don't work out for you I have a new one of those Billet 6061 Carrier bearing set ups that I'll never use
any chance of a pic of that?
just curious as this thread is the first I've heard of these
I have pulled many transmissions out of newer cars. Can't remember ever seeing dowels.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 l-bodies
Skf 1637745.
PM sentQuote:
Originally Posted by shmedley
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk