Re: Headlight switch failure
I've had this happen twice on my Lancer and once on my Omni. I think the contacts get old and/or corroded and get too much resistance and it burns up. Mine stunk horribly when it decided to melt down. I went to the junkyard and got another headlight switch and the whole connector plus about 6" of the wiring and spliced them in. Problem solved.
If you REALLY don't want to deal with it again, you might think about installing a relay for the headlights, so the current isn't drawing right through the switch.
Re: Headlight switch failure
Quote:
Originally Posted by
iTurbo
I've had this happen twice on my Lancer and once on my Omni. I think the contacts get old and/or corroded and get too much resistance and it burns up. Mine stunk horribly when it decided to melt down. I went to the junkyard and got another headlight switch and the whole connector plus about 6" of the wiring and spliced them in. Problem solved.
If you REALLY don't want to deal with it again, you might think about installing a relay for the headlights, so the current isn't drawing right through the switch.
Just might have to do that one of these days. :nod: I just went to Autozone and they actually had it in stock. Walk out to the parking lot, plug it in, and it works. Made sure to have all the lights on all the way home. Get home, take the switch off and felt everything searching for something hot. Didn't find a thing, so I'm content right now with it just being the swtich itself. Also, the design of the new switch is different, so hopefully it is an improvment.
Re: Headlight switch failure
When I pulled the dash out of my '88 Z, I discovered that the wiring for the headlight switch was stuffed in there in such a way as to cause all the wires to chaff through the insulation. That's a big part of what led me to replace the entire dash harness.
Amazing the car never caught fire really.
Re: Headlight switch failure
Quote:
Originally Posted by
supercrackerbox
When I pulled the dash out of my '88 Z, I discovered that the wiring for the headlight switch was stuffed in there in such a way as to cause all the wires to chaff through the insulation. That's a big part of what led me to replace the entire dash harness.
Amazing the car never caught fire really.
I saw what you are talking about and thought about pulling the wires apart and taping them or somehow keep them seperated.
Re: Headlight switch failure
Quote:
Originally Posted by
supercrackerbox
When I pulled the dash out of my '88 Z, I discovered that the wiring for the headlight switch was stuffed in there in such a way as to cause all the wires to chaff through the insulation. That's a big part of what led me to replace the entire dash harness.
Amazing the car never caught fire really.
Was this factory or did someone mess with the wiring to cause that to do that?
Where were the wires located ?
Re: Headlight switch failure
They were just kinda wedged up against the bottom of the switch. Could have been factory, but who knows. I found so many wires under the dash that were butchered it was unbelievable.
Never did get the door chime to work properly though.
Re: Headlight switch failure
wow, thats wierd. I swapped out my dash for a grey one in the omni and while I was at it I also changed the underdash wiring. The owner before me had the wiring all fubard.....Turbodave helped me with finding a harness that was in good condition.
Re: Headlight switch failure
I had this exact problem. Mine ended badly for my lebaron!
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...81_42_full.jpg
I found that the cause was as spring in that switch which got lose when I was turning the switch to change intensity of the dash lightning and caused shorts.
Now, when it shorted it blew a fuse (I can't remember the number but the dash lightning and your taillights are on the same fuse!). I think, that your issue might be solved with getting a new switch, as all of the problems I have heard are based around this spring getting loose. However, needless to say, you should confirm that all the other wiring is ok.
Re: Headlight switch failure
Yeah, it's probably just the switch. The contacts are attached right to the spades that mate with the connector. The contacts go, get resistive and then get hot. The heat travels through the brass and copper and everything around it starts to melt. Happened to my 1st Shadow and I had to splice in a new connector from the junkyard. I'm glad to have the relay mod now to take the load off that switch.
Re: Headlight switch failure
Quote:
Originally Posted by
MiniMopar
Yeah, it's probably just the switch. The contacts are attached right to the spades that mate with the connector. The contacts go, get resistive and then get hot. The heat travels through the brass and copper and everything around it starts to melt. Happened to my 1st Shadow and I had to splice in a new connector from the junkyard. I'm glad to have the relay mod now to take the load off that switch.
Is there a thread for this mod? is that the one on boostedmopar?
Re: Headlight switch failure
add relays to the headlights, and put in a pn cajm8190, I have no idea why they did not recall every car made with that switch, but it adds a ground and relay to the switch to take the load off. Here it is, colors may not match though.
1994-1997 (BR) Dodge Ram 3500 Series Trucks
NOTE: This recall applies only to 3500 series trucks built through October 21, 1996 (MDH 1021XX).
IMPORTANT: Some of the involved vehicles may be in dealer used vehicle inventory. Dealers should complete this recall service on these vehicles before retail delivery. Dealers should also perform this recall on vehicles in for service as determined by using the DIAL VIP System.
Subject
Extended operation of the lights on about 79,000 of the above vehicles can overheat the headlamp switch and cause a fire. An overheated headlamp switch can also result in a sudden loss of headlamp and/or parklamp operation and cause an accident without warning.
Repair
The headlamp switch must be replaced and a parklamp circuit relay wiring harness must be installed. In addition, the headlamp switch electrical connector must be inspected and any damaged wires must be replaced.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
CAJM8190 Headlamp Switch Package
Each package contains the following components:
Qty Description
1 Headlamp Switch
1 Overlay Relay Harness
1 2-Way Female Connector
1 2-Way Wedge
1 Headlamp Switch Connector
1 Headlamp Switch Connector Wedge
1 Wire Kit (Contains 9 individual wires with terminals at one end)
9 Heat Shrink Tubing
Each dealer, to whom vehicles in the recall were invoiced (or the current dealer at the same street address), will receive enough Headlamp Switch Packages to service about 25% of those vehicles.
Service Procedure
Remove the Headlamp Switch Assembly:
Disconnect the negative battery cable(s).
Note: To enhance customer satisfaction, remember to record all radio settings before disconnecting the battery and to reset all electronic memory (clock, radio settings, etc.) when you have completed the service procedure.
Open the cup holder and remove the two (2) screws that secure the cup holder assembly to the instrument panel (Figure 1).
Remove the cup holder assembly from the instrument panel.
Remove the ash receiver from the ash receiver bracket.
Remove the two (2) screws that secure the ash receiver bracket to the instrument panel (Figure 2).
Remove the ash receiver bracket from the instrument panel.
Carefully pry the cluster bezel away from the instrument panel to disengage the eight (8) snap-clip retainers (Figure 3).
Unplug the wiring harness connector from the lighter.
Unplug the wiring harness connector from the auxiliary power outlet.
Set the cluster bezel aside.
Remove the three (3) screws that secure the headlamp switch bezel to the instrument panel (Figure 4).
Pull the headlamp switch and bezel out from the instrument panel and then unplug the wiring harness connector(s).
Pull the headlamp switch control knob out to the ON position stop.
Depress the switch knob and shaft release button on the bottom of the switch assembly and then pull the switch knob and shaft out of the switch (Figure 5).
Remove the three (3) screws that secure the headlamp switch bezel to the switch mounting bracket and then remove the bezel (Figure 5).
Unscrew the plastic mounting bracket (shaft bushing) nut and remove the bezel mounting bracket from the switch assembly. Discard the switch assembly.
Install the Parklamp Circuit Overlay Harness:
Remove the wedge from the 9-way headlamp switch wiring connector.
Inspect the 9-way headlamp switch connector and all nine (9) terminals for indications of heat damage (Figure 6).
Carefully inspect the connector and terminals B1, B2, R and H for signs of damage from overheating (melted connector and/or discolored terminal) (Figure 7). If any one of these terminals shows signs of damage, ALL FOUR of these terminals MUST be replaced. Continue with Step 3.
Carefully inspect the connector and all other terminals. If any terminals in addition to B1, B2, R and H are damaged, terminals B1, B2, R, H and any other damaged terminals MUST be replaced. Continue with Step 3.
If there is no indication of heat damage, continue with Step 6.
For vehicles with headlamp switch wire terminal and connector heat damage: Remove any damaged wire terminals from the headlamp switch connector using a small screwdriver, Miller Special Tool #8197 or equivalent. If the connector is also damaged and cannot be reused, remove all wires and discard the connector.
Replace any damaged wires as determined in Step 2 as follows:
Cut the electrical tape and remove the affected wire(s) from the bundle.
Cut off the damaged wire approximately 10 inches from the terminal.
NOTE: Stagger the wire splice locations by about ½ inch.
Remove about 1 inch of insulation from the end of the wire.
Remove about 1 inch of insulation from the end of the matching color and gauge wire and terminal provided in the parts package.
Slip one piece of the provided heat shrink tubing over the new wire end.
Twist the exposed wire ends of the harness wire and the replacement wire end together.
Solder the twisted wire ends together using rosin core solder.
CAUTION: All wiring splices must be soldered or future circuit failure may occur.
Slide the heat shrink tubing over the wire splice and heat the tubing until the tubing shrinks tightly around the wire and sealant comes out both ends of the tubing.
Repeat Steps A-H for all other damaged wires as necessary.
Insert all of the wire terminals into their proper locations in the supplied connector EXCEPT TERMINALS "B2" and "R" (Figure 8). Retape the wiring bundle as necessary.
For vehicles WITHOUT headlamp switch connector or terminal heat damage: Remove the PINK w/RED TRACER wire from location "B2" and the BLACK w/YELLOW TRACER wire from location "R" of the headlamp switch connector using a small screwdriver, Miller Special Tool #8197 or equivalent (Figure 8).
Insert the wire terminals that were originally in locations "B2" and "R" of the headlamp wiring connector into the supplied 2-way wiring connector. Insert the PINK w/RED TRACER wire into the (+) cavity. Insert the BLACK w/YELLOW TRACER wire into the (-) cavity (Figure 9). Secure the terminals with the provided 2-way wedge.
Connect the 2-way wiring connector to the mating connector on the provided overlay relay harness (Figure 9).
Insert the two wire terminals from the overlay harness into the headlamp switch connector (Figure 8). Insert the PINK w/RED TRACER wire into the "B2" cavity. Insert the BLACK w/YELLOW TRACER wire into the "R" cavity.
Secure the wire terminals in the headlamp switch connector with the provided 9-way wedge.
Install the Headlamp Switch Assembly:
Install the headlamp switch bezel bracket on the new switch assembly.
Install the headlamp switch bezel on the mounting bracket. Tighten the three (3) mounting screws securely.
Install the switch knob and shaft on the new switch assembly by depressing the release button on the bottom of the switch assembly and then inserting the shaft into the switch assembly (Figure 10).
Connect the 9-way wiring connector to the headlamp switch (Figure 10).
Connect the 2-way wiring connector to the headlamp switch (if equipped) (Figure 10).
Connect the single wire connector from the overlay harness to the ground terminal on the headlamp switch assembly (Figure 10).
Tuck the relay pack into the instrument panel pocket on the left side between the demister duct and the HVAC duct and then install the headlamp switch into the instrument panel. Tighten the three attaching screws securely (Figure 4).
Connect the lighter wiring connector.
Connect the auxiliary power outlet wiring connector to the power outlet on the cluster bezel.
Install the cluster bezel and engage the cluster bezel snap-clip retainers to the instrument panel (Figure 3).
Install the ash receiver bracket (Figure 2). Tighten the bracket screws securely.
Install the ash receiver.
Install the cup holder assembly (Figure 1). Tighten the cup holder screws securely.
Connect the negative battery cable(s).
edit- all cars and trucks in the 80s-90s had that same switch
Re: Headlight switch failure
Quote:
Originally Posted by
SpoolinGLH
Is there a thread for this mod? is that the one on boostedmopar?
Basic steps are posted here:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...1&postcount=34
Re: Headlight switch failure
Are these the same switches used in the Lbody as well? Thanks for posting the info...
Re: Headlight switch failure
Quote:
Originally Posted by
SpoolinGLH
Are these the same switches used in the Lbody as well? Thanks for posting the info...
L-bodies are not physically the same as G/J/H/other(?) cars, but I imagine the process would be the same. The L-body switch reminds me a lot of the late 70s-80s GM switches with that button on the bottom to remove the switch knob.
Man that took me forever to figure out when I had to change the switch in my '78 Regal back in the day.
