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The tilt column in the Daytona is at the point where I need to tear it apart and fix the side to side wobble. I've done this once on a past car many years ago and I seem to recall a special tool was required to keep a spring compressed during reassembly. Does anyone have pictures of it? Is it something I can make in a machine shop or rent? I just want to be prepared so I can get it done quickly and get back to enjoying it. Thanks!
its the old style? http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/...lumnwobble.htm
It's the original 1989 column. Not sure what "old style" means.
The lock plate is what's bringing back memories (nightmares) now! I think the little lockring is what I fought with last time before someone told me there was a special tool for it. This Buick website looks like a hell of a good resource for tearing these things apart.
years ago when the tool was only available from a GM dealer at 140 bucks (up here) I found an alternative at about 3AM one morning
my car was stalling going around the bend of a drive thru every time I went there
you need a spare 2.2 t-stat housing
rather you need the bell and lower flange - cut the neck for the rad hose off but don't cut away any of the bell
now without cutting any of the flange you need to cut a window into the side of the bell so that you can access the c clip with the c clip pliers
the steering wheel nut should have enough diameter to push down on the bell if you only removed the neck of the T-stat housing
you may or may not need a large washer, depending on the flange on the nut (if it has one)
DON'T cut away any of the flange to make the window - you need the flange to prevent the bell with the window from collapsing as you tighten the nut to push the modded t-stat housing down against the lockplate you need to remove (trust me on the flange - I ended up making a second one without cutting the flange)
works great for both removal and reinstalling the lockplate
so well in fact 20 years later I still keep that same "tool" in my box in case it's needed again
three cuts with a hacksaw and a little clean up with a file
1 cut to take the neck off and two to cut a chunk out of the side of the bell
cut the neck off straight so the "tool" pushes the lock plate evenly
oh , and if the thought occurs to grease the cllm while it's apart use the silicone type not old fashioned axle grease as you'll regret it on a hot day LOL...
old type is the one without the glow ring ignition, it went away around 1989. The buick/GM I believe are from the same vendor.
the tool is easy enough to make as Johny suggests. you need to push the plate from the center shaft.
That tool is usually available at most parts stores. It's a GM thing for a Saginaw column....retainer spring compressor or some such thing. There's also a pin puller installer IIRC that you need to get all the way down in the column to tighten those screws.
push with hand and pry with small screwdriver. I used a torx headed allen wrench, removed screws and installed with Socket head cap screws so I could use my ball headed allen wrench.
The pin tool is cheap. Use some lock tite on the lower bolts so it doesn't come loose again.
https://www.mybumpertobumperstore.co...SABEgKrUfD_BwE
Thanks everyone for the advice. I just finished up - much better! It went pretty smoothly other than fiddling with the high beam pushrod that kept coming out of place. I was able to do everything with the column in place. Once I got the upper "cup" removed, I gently dangled it from the wiring harness, did my job, and put it all back. 4 generous dabs of red eff-you threadlocker and it's nice and tight now. Didn't even ed up pulling the battery - all I did was pull the horn fuse just in case.
Ended up grabbing the lock plate holder from Autozone. Did some research and found out the threaded hole in the pivot pins is 8-32, so I was able to make myself a super simple tool to pull them out. I slowly set them back in place with a large C clamp.
Related question: if these columns were used for 20 years across a ton of cars, is it possible that I could replace my turn signal stalk (no cruise control) with one from a different car? Even a GM?
I have a fair amount of experience with the columns. You can take the turn signal stalk out of any Chrysler and it bolts right in. The difference is in the connector under the dash for the cruise. They vary.
that high beam link rod stops dropping out if you put a dab of silicone on each endQuote:
Originally Posted by jonnymopar
-I've had to do it to a few cars over the years
turn sig stalk is just two screws under the felt thingy covering the hole it goes into , plus strip the wiring / replace
with no cruise it's just the stock
as long as the metal inner rod is ok you can just replace the stalk cover sleave
Quote:
Originally Posted by cordes
Thanks guys. No cruise on mine, so it's pretty simple. It looks like just the sleeve is cracked since the turn signals, high beams, and wipers all work properly. Every one of these cars I've owned had that sleeve cracked at the mounting "ears" prior to my ownership. Didn't know if any good ones existed after 30 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge
I just put a few hundred miles on this car today, and I feel foolish for waiting this long to fix the column. I swear the car feels better in the twisties now that I'm not having to compensate for the column moving around.