BadAss 2.2L/2.5L Equal Length Runner Tubular Header Group Buy

If you make the turbo flange to accept: HE341 / HE351 / GT3582 turbos, I'm In!

Here is an idea: Raise the turbo flange up and at a 45 degree angle which places the turbo over the transmission.

:drum:

zombie-thread...

Little recap -

Made original mild steel thin wall prototype like 15ish years ago. Was on my car (11.62@120mph) then on Tommy's Charger then on JoeVanDuno's van for the 11.75 record. Somehow this thing held up OK despite rust and getting bent due to bad motor moutn on van (thanks Joe! LOL)

Second SS prototype made several years ago and test fit into G, P and L body cars with stock mounts and it fit OK with T3 or T3/T4 hybrid. proto has been on Tommy's Charger for a few years and seems to have held up.


Is there any interest left in these? I don't have resources or time to make them myself (haven't for years which is main reason why this has never happened yet) but can get a shop to quote making a batch.

-Stainless Steel
-Chrysler flange or T3 flange (only Chrysler flange was test fit!!!)

Any other questions?

Depending on how many we could get in on it, IE what the final group buy price is, I might be interested in one. Jayspartanburg may be also. How hard would it be to just have both patterns drilled in it? What sv was used with the Chrysler flange test fits?

I might be interested in one depending on price.

Nope, not interested.

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Originally Posted by Force Fed Mopar

Depending on how many we could get in on it, IE what the final group buy price is, I might be interested in one. Jayspartanburg may be also. How hard would it be to just have both patterns drilled in it? What sv was used with the Chrysler flange test fits?

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Could possibly do both patterns but I'm not sure if the openings of each line up line to line

Test fit with TU 3" SV. The close area was the comp housing to firewall with T4E comp housing. Everything else seemed to fit OK.

If you recall the FM TBI cast headers (or copies thereof) the head and turbo flanges are parallel which puts the SV outlet right at the rack. FM sold theirs with a custom SV housing.

The angle I put on the turbo flange allows the use of the stock 2.5: or TU 3" or whatever SV housing you want.

Due to offset turbo location, install will require custom oil/coolant lines and downpipe, none of which are included cuz everyone has their own setup anyways

might be a nice idea to move it 1/2 inch to the drivers side. to help with hybrid installs.

id like one. depending on price.

Has there been a flow comparison between this and the TU cast header? I looked in the thread you referenced, but didn't see that info.

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Originally Posted by masterjr33

might be a nice idea to move it 1/2 inch to the drivers side. to help with hybrid installs.

id like one. depending on price.

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1/2" from where? This header relocates the turbo to the center between cyl 2 & 3 instead of the stock offset between cyl 3 & 4. Turbo clearance is gained because the turbo is lower and further from the block. Please disregard top secret race cam.

Attachment 59959

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Originally Posted by wheming

Has there been a flow comparison between this and the TU cast header? I looked in the thread you referenced, but didn't see that info.

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That might have been a different thread? I forget what all headers were compared in the header flow test DirectConnection did years ago. I recall mine had the most balanced (cyl to cyl) flow but was the biggest restriction which makes sense the way they were measured one cylinder at a time - of course one cylinder into a plenum will flow better than a smaller tube LOL!

FWIW that test was done on the OG thin wall MS proto and the SS proto has larger tubes.

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Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance

.... Please disregard top secret race cam.

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Actually, I am more interested in the high tech coating on said race cam.

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Originally Posted by chromguy

Actually, I am more interested in the high tech coating on said race cam.

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Shhh, lets keep that a secret! LOL!

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Originally Posted by chromguy

Actually, I am more interested in the high tech coating on said race cam.

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It's an iron oxide based coating which actually grows with heat and time. What's nice is that it can be controlled by oil so the process can be stopped perfectly just by installing and running the car. Want a little more lift? Just clean the oil off and add some heat and oxygen. Another trick that people in the midwestern states have done over the years is to throw some NaCl at it. This really gets things moving. Of course most people just use this technique as chemical weight reduction for their cars.

and here I thought I was gonna be the wise --- when I say , if you don't drill the turbo flange it automatically fits both flange patterns

it's not hard for the end user to drill 4 holes - might even want them in a build unique position on that flange too

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Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge

and here I thought I was gonna be the wise --- when I say , if you don't drill the turbo flange it automatically fits both flange patterns

it's not hard for the end user to drill 4 holes - might even want them in a build unique position on that flange too

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Interesting idea. Maybe for those more skilled that could be an option. Drilling and tapping 4 stud hole perpendicular to a flange can be challenging once the flange is mounted to the manifold. Keep in mind 2 uppers are blind tapped holes for studs.

Flow testing a header one tube at a time w/ ambient air doesn't tell you much at all about what it does on an engine pushing 1600* exhaust gas through it in pulses at increasing frequency...

dust the cobwebs off the thread... if anyone is interested in a header like mine, might have found someone who wants to make some

Raises hand

If you say TIII I am in.

I'm in