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Does anybody here still have a running setup or have experience with the Weber dual DCOE carb setup that used to be offered by Direct Connection/Mopar Performance?
I have one of these kits and I would like to get some feedback on driveability, reliability etc. What kind of compression ratio would work well being n/a, 91 octane, and a stock GLH H.O. "power module" (SCC has provision for knock sensor)?
I am currently running dual DCOE 45's on my 84 SC. This is a street driven car that sees regular use. One thing i've noticed about the DCOE's is their consistency. Once they're set up correctly, they stay that way and it is in your best interest not to fuss with them once they're in the zone. There is a ton of info online about initial setup, so I won't go through all that here.
Running 45's on the street is a bit much unless you have a ton of head work done and are running higher compression. You can make them work "okay" with a stock setup, but you're restricting them and not using them to their full potential.
Not knowing what stage your car is in at the moment, I would suggest 40 DCOE's, and 10.5:1 CR (can still run 91-93 octane). Keep in mind that the vacuum signal for the brake booster is weak and you may want to add a second vacuum line from the manifold and/or add a vacuum canister to store some vacuum. It's also very important to make sure your carbs are healthy with no throttle shaft wobble. Excessive wear will cause a small vacuum leak and a ton of headaches.
Thanks for the feedback! The setup I have consists of two 40mm DCOE carbs so that oughta help with the streetability. I have a nice n/a shorblock I could build with high compression forged pistons, but would be hesitant to go above 10:1 comp ratio.
I guess I'm still trying to figure out what to build next. I've always thought that this would be a super cool setup to have. The throttle response must be insane when it's dialed it just right.
Keep in mind that a cam with poor low rpm performance effectively lowers your compression ratio. Lots of cars that run high compression ratios and big cams have no higher of a running compression # at low rpm than a car with stock compression and cams. Probably worse or they'd run great at low rpm. :p
dcoe4me - any issues with the carburetor seals/gaskets where they bolt to the manifolds? These are quite different than what I'm used to dealing with to say the least. Do you just have to be mindful of the torque spec or are there other tips/tricks to keeping them happy?
You will find some rubber O-ring type gaskets out there that are designed to reduce vibration and fuel foaming. Personally, I've never had much luck with those and use a pre-fabbed gasket material instead. Like these...
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac000585.html
I've not used any specific torque specs when putting the carbs on, but was very mindful to use a chris-cross pattern when putting them on. Torquing them to a specific inch/pound probably isn't a bad idea, but I just went by feel. I also used nylock nuts. I check them occasionally to see if any have loosened up, but they've never moved.
An item I purchased, but haven't installed yet is a heat shield for the bottom of the carb to keep fuel from boiling from exhaust heat. Here's a link.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=5379
If you want to keep your sanity and spare your back, do all work while the head is off the car. If you're going to use a header (use header wrap), assemble that on the bench as well. It would be all but impossible to do this work with the head on the car.
Thanks for those links dcoe4me!
this might be some help
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qmJTYr47yY