LoL I have both this one was just handy/closer when I went to measure this and always like to check spline fitment on OBX’s
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One of the reasons we selected this van was Austin offered to include the necessary hardware to convert it to a stick. Of course automatics are quicker but we like banging gears and thought it would be easier/cheaper to get running with spare parts we had available. He included most everything, trans, shifter, cables, k-member, pedal assembly, etc. One missing part was a pedal stop (these are attached/welded to car pedal assemblies but bolts onto van pedal assemblies). Nobody had a spare to donate or buy. Luckily Turbodave lent us his to see how it fit/worked (Thanks!) and we made a copy. Here are a couple pics of the factory one and our copy.
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Never seen a van clutch cable adjuster. Totally different than the car ones for sure.
Operation Body-Drop. These minivans sit pretty high allowing enough suspension travel to have 7 passengers plus cargo and not bottom out. Without passengers they sit pretty high! Lowering the front was easy, we used the old 90’s vintage KYB struts and Mopar Performance lowering springs from the Z that collected dust since we made coil-overs for it. The rear we really liked how Michael and Kevin Yost dropped their van and think that is by far the best lowering blocks we have seen! Due to budget we went with the old school method similar to what Dempsey used on his van ~20 years ago.
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Project minivan received a used ACT twin disk clutch from the Z and Reeves Racing Garage DIY Scatter Shield kit.
Twin disk in a minivan seems normal… to us!
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what is that flywheel ? aftermarket or modded stocker?
I'm liking it a lot more that the drilled out swiss cheese method of lightening them
and the idea that if it fails it might break into smaller pieces
scattershields are always a good idea
but years ago I thought of another , as good
loong ago , one of the mechanics at the local dealer I used had a nice little blue shelby charger..mostly stock
he blew up the spider gears in the 525
one of the pieces went from the diff area , through the bellhousing area and out the front of the bellhousing and into the rad
I said to him , "good thing it didn'ty go the other direction"(back towards the firewall)
ever since I've thought one of my 16 x 16 x 3/16 steel plate construction sign base plates might be nice slipped under the carpet with a little bend in it to fit the floor/firewall
ACT chrome moly flywheel that comes with their dual disk clutch. This is their earlier version, later version has circle holes and a bit beefier. This one went in the Z over a decade ago... Agree on scatter shield, def worth it!
Ouch on A525! out of the thousands that blew up their diffs, luckily have not heard of any injuries, most were luckily mostly contained
thanks.. I haven't seen that clutch before
I've seen the listings for "10,000 RPM's" single/double or tripple clutches for dodge but nothing else until your post
Sadly it doesn't look like ACT makes clutches for Turbo Dodges any more...
Badass Minivan data log comparison - some people have asked “How could adding only 5 psi drop the ET by over a second!?” - the answer is simple, those are only ‘peak’ boost numbers and don’t account for slow boost recovery ramp rate, the ‘area under the curve’. To help explain this we took a few minutes to pull the FAST Classic data logs before (12.34@113mph) and after (11.14@125mph) we made improvements in boost leaks and boost control. The summary picture notes the boost at the top and bottom of each gear from 2nd gear on followed by a pics of each increment and the back to back time slips together. Arrows point to how long it took boost to creep up in 4th gear on the 12.34 run, if it was 20psi the whole way it likely would have been a quicker pass!
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I remember reading somewhere, here or on TD that one pound of added boost equals something like 14 more horsepower
so x 5 would be a notable increase in omph ..even if that equation isn't exact
While 1 psi of boost certainly does add some HP, it really is dependent on the build I think.
My memory isn't as good as it once was, but I always thought it was closer to about 7hp for my stuff.
The other number I half remember is how much HP (1) cold start injector can support. Some were only about 15hp, and some are more.
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My memory says the old rule was 6hp per lb on a stock TII engine. There are guys who have made way more. I like holdener's boost math formula.
Badass Minivan engine pics! Still a work in progress but here are a couple pics of the mighty 2.5L 8-valve monster!
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Is that a modified one piece intake? Very good looking piece.
Nice. Did you make your own floor, or did you use one of the pieces Lengel made years ago? I presume you radiused the entry to the runners? Do you have any pics of it in the process of being made?