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Its my first rebuild so i have some questions
i got my rebuild kit from Southern Gear. I think there was a mis-communication as i only got 3 small synchro stop rings and 2 large middle cones for rebuilding the synchros. from what i can tell from the FSM i need 5 syncro stop rings, 2 large and 3 small
my question is, are the stop rings and middle cones all i need to refresh the synchros? or do i have to replace the hubs and sleeves as well? I hope to be pulling the trans apart later this week.
i called southern gear and apparently the synchro kit only contains the 3 smaller stop rings and the 2 larger middle cones. I asked if the guy could find the larger 1-2 stop rings and shift fork pads. just have to wait to hear from him then.
i hope this isn't going to cost me another $100+ for these parts :(
well, southern gear can't get the 1-2 stop rings or shift pads :( im going to loo and see if i can't just buy those. Anyone have an idea where to get the 1-2 stop rings?
Try Cliff R. or Chris R.
finally got around to pulling my trans apart. LOTS of little metal pieces from the dead diff in there. input shaft also had end play and side to side play.
synchros wern't too bad on 3,4, and 5, but the middle cones on 1 and 2 were worn pretty good. the synchro rings on 1 and 2 are steel, not brass so they dont seem to have worn much at all
im stuck at the moment, i can't figure out how to get the race off the end of the secondary shaft near the pinion gear. anyone have any hints on that? other than that and a few other races/seals, i should have this rebuilt soon :)
i had a shop get the race off the secondary shaft. they cut into it and split it off with a wedge or something. theres a SLIGHT nick in the shaft but that is under tha race and it shouldn't affect the strength of the shaft. i have the shaft in the freezer and tomorrow im going to throw the race in the oven @ 300 or so to see if i can't slip-fit it on :)
also ordered new fill plugs, the nut on the end of the input shaft and the differential shim kit, no shim kit was listed for the input shaft tho...
Too late for you, but for future reference it's not necessary to replace the bushing used on the 523/543/568 unless there is damage to it. That part is harder than the shaft/bearing and is designed to solve the issue of the mainshaft bearing causing wear on the mainshaft and eventually massive damage to the gearset.
^^^^WOW CHRIS, GLAD TO SEE YOU BACK.:thumb:
Been a busy year or so. Lots of OT at work, plus a rambunctious three year old. I've also lost interest in the cars for a while, bought a buell last spring and have been enjoying that.Quote:
Originally Posted by butchsuppe
thanks. i replaced it as there was scoring on the race. i figured it couldn't hurt since it was already apart.
any other rebuild tidbits of wisdom? :)
If it was scored, definitely a good call to replace. It'd be hard to put down every bit of info, but if you've got any questions feel free to ask. I'm not gonna be active like i was, checking every hour, but I'll be on regularly again, so ask away.
well, i wasnt able to get the shim kit for the input shaft, dealer couldn't find a listing :( other than that, its all torn down and some of the smaller case parts are soaking in purple power and water. Anyone got any good ideas for cleaning up one hell of a greased up case?
The intermediate shaft bearing IN the case was a PITA to get out, finally got it out and there was a bunch of RTV pieces and metal filings from the diff explosion.
Also, the dogs on the 1-2 GEARS and synchro sleeve are a bit worn, not excessively, but the tips are rounded off a bit and not pointy like ^ anymore. is it worth sourcing better gears or just making sure the 1-2 synchros are up to snuff?
Also on the 1-2 synchro topic, im trying to find the synchro rings as mine are showing ID wear and arn't engaging the middle cones well, too much free spin. Im going to try a place tomorrow, but if anyone knows where to get them id be appreciative. Its odd though, my 1-2 synchro rings are STEEL not brass like 3-4 and 5...
Here's a link to the info we put together in the Knowledge Center for manual trans part numbers and availability including the shims! Hopefully it will help you some.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vb...&articleid=134
For the case degreasing, I recommend scraping as much off as possible with a 3-4" scraper. Get engine degreaser(the gel kind) and spray it on the case. Let it soak for the recommended time and rinse it off with water. I did it to mine and it cleaned it up really nice.
well, i got the gearset from rx2 mazda (Thanks alot BTW) and coupled together a good gearset and it seems really tight on all the synchros. I power-washed the case and got all the gears assembled on the secondary shaft (except 5th)
i got the price on some shift fork pads, dealer listed them as NS1, but gave me the number of a place in Mansfield that can get them in one day. 1-2 and 5 are about $6 and change PER (7*4=$28) but 3-4 are 18.xx EACH! does that sound about right?
Also, what can i use other than permatex 518 to seal the case parts together or am i stuck buying like 4 $6 small tubes of 518?
can low voltage to the injectors not to open and close correctly? i tried a new FPR and that didn't help, as far as i can tell its down to the injectors or the MS. I data logged it running which i can only do at part throttle and it bounces around a lot either i fried the injectors or something else but i don't know what. i even added about 4 to the req fuel and it seemed to help a little but that might have been due to the partially open throttle and a vacuum line off (trying to get a high idle)
well, got a fair bit done, but i have some more questions :)
i got the gearset installed with the shift forks (got the 3-4 pads from a dealer in WA for 6.22 each :) )all the bearings and races installed, but i can't remember if there was a place for the second smaller plastic oil feeder part. the larger grey one went behind the secondary shaft bearing in the front of the case, but its been a few weeks since i tore the trans apart so i don't know where it goes or if i need it at all..... :confused2:
Also, aside from trying to buy the special tool 6252 for tightening the 5th gear input shaft retaining nut, is there any way to tighten it? i have a torque multiplier (normally used for lugnuts) that i was thinking of using and putting the lever part against the 5th gear shift rod, but im a little iffy about putting 220ft lbs of force on the shift rod
Once i finish up with all the stuff above, all that's left is assembling 5th gear, the LSD and diff shimming and shimming the input shaft and the new trans will be good to go (with the new clutch and aluminum flywheel of course :) )
where did you guys get your fsm for the 568s?
i have a 93 FSM that says it covers the 523/543/568 *shrug*
i cant source one at all
Buy a 90-93 fsm for any of the 2.2/2.5 cars. It covers everything in the transmission section. 94-95 also has them but only for the 523/543.Quote:
Originally Posted by thefitisgay