Intro and Update: Slugmobile and Mean Mini! (long read, but worth it)

Just started Slug for the first time since rebuild.
Got a oil drip from the rear cam seal, and another which looks like from between engine and trans. I remain hopeful it is something other than the rear main.
Need to run her again and put the timing light on her, so we'll see what I can determine.

Congrats on hearing her run again!!

I hope the oil leak is not a major problem for ya, I Had delt with the same thing on my engine build but it was the front crank seal leaking.

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Originally Posted by wheming

Just started Slug for the first time since rebuild.
Got a oil drip from the rear cam seal, and another which looks like from between engine and trans. I remain hopeful it is something other than the rear main.
Need to run her again and put the timing light on her, so we'll see what I can determine.

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I once had a rear main leak that I think was caused by me not prelubing the seal when I installed it. It wasn't bad enough to need immediate attention, so the next time i took the trans down, i replaced the seal being sure to lube it, and it didn't return.

I was not the rebuilder, however the person who was is a longtime mechanic and trusted friend (and fwd mopar guy). I'm not sure what happened.
I've never had done one, and I was quite happy with that record!

it can happen to anyone, my rear main seal retainer was cracked and I couldn't see it. allowed the seal to spin with the crank and leak. That sucked to have to pull the engine again. I always loctite the outside on them from now on.

I see a new transmission filter, there are new fuel line fittings on the passenger side, new radiator, reworked intercooler pipes (you had said something about going to aluminum in the past), new fuel filter, other than those and things just being cleaner....I dunno

It's great to hear she's running again! I don't think I'm alone in saying that we need video (with sound)!!!!

Does anyone have the 89 FSM that can scan me the rear main seal replacement instructions?
I need to see just how bad this will be...

I don't have the FSM. The simplified breakdown is to:
Remove the axles,
Unbolt the flexplate from the converter
Pull the trans,
Unbolt the flexplate from the crankshaft
Pull/pry out the seal
Tap in the new seal
Reassemble.

!M.F.!
:banghead:
That sounds lovely. I just can't catch any sort of break.

If this works, here's what I mean:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLxh...e_gdata_player

And since that worked and I finally have an official YouTube channel...
You can see her start for the first time.
The day before I primed her with an air ratchet on the intermediate shaft as someone mentioned.
Before going for a start I turned her over with no plugs to prime her again (and injectors unplugged and fuel pump unplugged).
I should have primed the fuel pump more.
Maybe I messed the seal up by not having her fire right up?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmVY...e_gdata_player

http://youtu.be/KLxh4pN8-EE


That's a pretty serious leak. If you can get the lower inspection cover off the trans, and put something up to direct the oil away from just dripping straight down you can slide under the car and while it's running see if the seal is spinning with the crank shaft or just leaking between the seal and the crank. But it looks like it needs to come out and be carefully inspected IMO.


http://youtu.be/vmVYtx6vt64


Why didn't it start up right away?

It has not been running for like 6 months or more, and I didn't prime the fuel pump enough times.
I might look at her again today but I'm so disgusted right now I think I need a break.
And, when I think about it I still have Mini's engine and transmission to remove and seperate so I can install the rebuilt short block and new trans. And I'm still waiting for the rest of my parts to come in before Mini's top end can be assembled.

After figuring out 0.084" is too thick for the Cometic gaskets I ordered, I'm going to now have to get a 0.065". But these ones I bought maybe I can sell one to someone with a shaved head ( not a skinhead though)((although there is nothing wrong with skinheads, no offense intended)).

Uploaded a bunch of new pics to Slug's album.
This should work:
https://picasaweb.google.com/w.heming/Slugmobile

That little bit of cranking wouldn't have hurt the seal unless the seal was messed up, or there was something catching on it from the crank, or as suggested, there is something wrong with the retainer.

It's hard to tell from the video, and I know new oil is much lighter than old oil, but that looks like water to me. Are you sure it's oil?

Oh yes it is oil. :(

:( Sorry to hear that. Something else I've heard people having issues with is an oil galley plug that is behind the flywheel. I'd be sure the check that and make sure that isn't the true culprit of your problem.

Anyone have a pic or diagram of this so I can possibly see that before decoupling the trans?

The other thing I was thinking although I don't think its an issue is, I have 6 qts of oil in her and she is up on jackstands. I'm using a Ford filter which holds practically an entire qt and there are no balance shafts, so I don't think the oil level is up to the seal, but I guess I need some affirmation. I thought I have started her in the past on stands and never ran into this.

Also does anyone know if with the top two bellhousing bolts as long pins (made from 6-7" long bolts with no head) if there would be enough room to change the seal? I guess with the fuss, it might be easier to drop the trans all the way down, but usually trying to get everything lined up reinstalling is a bigger with only the equipment I have.
I don't know when I'll tackle this. I guess I need to order a seal kit.
Are the Victor Rienz kits a good idea, or only go with Mopar?

I usually only go Mopar with that seal. It's an Automatic right? Just pull the engine IMO. Then you can inspect the seal and the oil galley plug.

I would probably just pull the motor as mentioned above and get a look at the seal and the plug. By the time you pull the trans, remove the pan on your back and then screw with the seal and plug while sqeezing yourself in there, you would have pulled the motor, fixed it and had it back in.

Wow, you give me way too much credit Pat! But thanks! :)
I have to do this without a shop, lift, or engine hoist. Pulling the trans almost sounds easier to me, but I wish I had to do neither.
But are you talking taking it out entirely, or uncoupling and just raising up in the engine bay to get access to the seal?
Its crap like this that makes me wish I was 15 years younger again! And its only going to get worse...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wheming

Wow, you give me way too much credit Pat! But thanks! :)
I have to do this without a shop, lift, or engine hoist. Pulling the trans almost sounds easier to me, but I wish I had to do neither.
But are you talking taking it out entirely, or uncoupling and just raising up in the engine bay to get access to the seal?
Its crap like this that makes me wish I was 15 years younger again! And its only going to get worse...

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I wish the same thing sometimes....lol. Drop the trans and do it since no hoist. That is your best bet.