Valve Stem Seals: where to get em, how to change em

Ok, first and fore most..... I need valve stem seals. None of the parts stores around here have them in stock, but like many things on these cars Im wondering if they are the same as another engine? Like maybe another Mopar car V8 or V6, something more common?? Otherwise I have to order them, which will put me 2 weeks out to have time to change them.

Second, Ive never changed valve stem seals in the 2.2 or 2.5L engines, well, any OHC engine. What is the procedure? Pull cam, remove followers, remove springs? Is it that simple? Thats how v8s and the v6s Ive done are, but like I said, never done an OHC.

thanks! :thumb:

I got them through my work(auto parts store) but had to get the full 'head set' felpro set, they didnt just the valve stem seals. Just a thought, i needed to get them that day since my head was in the shop and it cost me almost nothing to have them do them, the machine shop was at work, anyways i havnt done them so i cant give you any advice on that part, sorry

just a tip, good luck:thumb:

oh its not so easy man, the dodge dealer got me mp ones in a day and they where 10 for a set, you need a tool that you put in the spark plug hole to keep the valves up, then you remove the timing belt, cam, and then pressurize the cylinder using the tool that screws in, and the air line goes on then use an ohc valve spring compressor to compress the springs, remove the keepers, and then spring, then switch the seal, and reassemble, then repeat. good luck, i did mine and it took about 4 hours, but i dropped a valve.... yea try using a magnet on a stick and going through the valve guide, then one in the spark plug hole to get it back up.... or dont forget to put the air on ;):lol:
ill get a part number for you

SS 72522 in fel pro

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Originally Posted by shelby zed

oh its not so easy man, the dodge dealer got me mp ones in a day and they where 10 for a set, you need a tool that you put in the spark plug hole to keep the valves up, then you remove the timing belt, cam, and then pressurize the cylinder using the tool that screws in, and the air line goes on then use an ohc valve spring compressor to compress the springs, remove the keepers, and then spring, then switch the seal, and reassemble, then repeat. good luck, i did mine and it took about 4 hours, but i dropped a valve.... yea try using a magnet on a stick and going through the valve guide, then one in the spark plug hole to get it back up.... or dont forget to put the air on ;):lol:
ill get a part number for you

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yeah, thats how Ive done it on a couple of engines w/ the head still on. No issues then (knock on wood!!!) ;)

thanks! and thanks for the PN.

clay

Wow, my local parts stores carry them, I think I even have 2 sets at work. Now if they only did that for TIII engines, :(
Yes, there 8 valve specific. I was trying to find something better, IE a more modern version but gave up when I went TIII.

When I need valve stem seals, I head to the dealer. I buy the MP set for 8 bucks.

That price shocked the long time Chrysler parts guy. When I ordered them, he had a conversation with several mechanics about the price. The Mopar price for the seals was like 30 bucks. The MP, 8 bucks.

later

I have like 4 sets and all the tools to do it if you need them.

I remove the cam shaft, then use compressor air to hold the valves up while I take out the retainer, springs, and change the seal.

I got some in the top end kit TU sells. Head gasket, VC gasket, and valve seals.

ok, I found some local. One autozone told me they could not get them, and would not look at the other stores for stock. So I called another and they told me they were special order, but another store had both the valve seals, OR the complete head kit. So I have my seals now.

NOW my question is, when I pull the cam (which Ive never done), do I need to replace the cam seals?? or anything else? Because if I do, then it sounds like the head gasket set is what I need cause it includes all the seals.

thanks

i reuse cam seals unless they are torn. be careful tightening caps back down...not hard to strip.

I don't even pull the cam when I do it. It's easy if you have one of the fulcrum type spring compressors.

With the piston all the way down before the compression stroke, feed rope through the spark plug hole, bring the piston up (with both valves closed) to pack the rope against the valves. Now you can unkey the valves without dropping them. You do this one cylinder at a time of course.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cordes

I don't even pull the cam when I do it. It's easy if you have one of the fulcrum type spring compressors.

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yeah, I saw this in the FSM. Where do you get one of those fulcrum spring compressors?? sears?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John B

With the piston all the way down before the compression stroke, feed rope through the spark plug hole, bring the piston up (with both valves closed) to pack the rope against the valves. Now you can unkey the valves without dropping them. You do this one cylinder at a time of course.

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Ive also seen this method. Virtually fool proof I guess, but a bit more time consuming.

I changed the valve seals on this past Saturday. I used the compressed air in the cylinder method, and it works well for me, and the tools I have. Unfortunately it didnt cure my problem. The old valve seals didnt look that bad actually, so Im guessing its probably a turbo issue. I need to do a leak down test to be sure.

I went to the dealer(I work there)and ordered the MP ones.

Cindy has MP seals.:)

I got the tool from a tool supplier in the Detroit area. He knew I was a student, and that I had to do my own work so he cut me great deals all the time. I believe that the tool was KD brand. You could probably get one from toolsource.com etc. I believe I have posted up the part number before, but it is pretty easy to find without one too.

yea the kd tool is about 6 bucks, you sound just like me only 3 weeks later, i thaught valve seals, changed them and no diffrence... turbo had bad shaft play end to end

Get the Viton/teflon seals with the little springs that wrap aroung them and the stem to ensure a tight seal for a gazillion miles.