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Couple questions are coming to mind, and I haven't been able to locate a thread about installing a CSR Electric Water Pump. Engine i a common block.
1) Is the plug a standard plug from something? Before I cut it off and put on a weatherpack..
2) What's a good belt to install for the alternator, once the water pump pulley is gone.
3) What's a good circuit to tap into? I still have the A/C relay on the passenger shock tower, was thinking about using it for power and switching.
1. Might be able to find the mating connector, but I just used female spade connectors right onto the male spades in the connector. If you have a weatherpack connector suitable for the amp draw and wire size already, I would use that. Be sure to have the proper polarity either way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Skibbe
2. My belt had enough adjustment to take up the difference. I have an underdrive crank pulley though. But would think yours would too.
3. It is a pretty important component, so I used a seperate relay directly off the battery, triggered by ignition, and a seperate switch to be able to circulate to cool off with engine off.
Be aware the A/C relay cycles on/off. And at WOT is powered off. You wouldn't want your electric water pump to do that.
If you have done some researching looking for install instructions, you might have already seen some information detailing the faulty design of this pump. But, it does still circulate coolant sufficient enough to keep engine cool, even if the impeller was machined backwards.
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Got a picture of the connector ? If its something standard we can probably id it.
You know, I was looking at that impeller thinking something was off... maybe I should just run a stock pump.
I don't know if anyone has one in true daily driver service.
There are still folks using it in mostly race vehicle senarios.
I had used one for about a year or more, but was afraid to drive too much with it. So it was mostly at the tracks, and some on road tuning drives. There have been a few people experiences of the impeller coming off. I never had that problem and had bought mine really late, like a year or two after the group buy directly from CSR.
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Anymore, if you don't have the CSR, I'd shy away from it and go with a Davies Craig unit. Those a very proven in endurance and street cars.
But the Davies Craig unit is not a drop in like the CSR water pump is.
Shelgame made something to use the moroso (I think) pump that would let it bolt up to the motor with almost no modifications.
Well, mine came from FWDperformance when they started clearing out old parts about a year ago. So chances are it was part of the initial group buy and therefore a questionable early unit...
can you drill a well placed hole and tap it and put a set screw in there to make sure it stays on?
Brian
looking at mine it appears the impeller is threaded onto the shaft
simply hitting the thread/edge of impeller two or three times to stake the impeller to the shaft should be sufficient (I'D think)
a little grinding on the housing to make it more similar to the first gen pump housing and then you can run it as a non reverse rotation pump.. thus correcting the impeller mess up
I'm going through this same process on the GLHS. Personally, I recommend the Metri-Pack 280 as opposed to the Weather-Pack. MP280 is spec'd up to 30A whereas the Weather-Pack is spec'd to 20A. Not that I expect it to exceed 20A, but it's good to have headroom.
https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none
I know people seem to thing the impeller is "backwards", but I am wondering if the blades are designed that way to reduce tip cavitation? I haven't looked at it in a long time, but just a thought.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cd16ea114c.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Reaper1
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Thank you! I feel like such an idiot for not taking a pic of mine before installing it.Quote:
Originally Posted by wheming
The forwards angled impeller blade isn't necessarily "backwards" (i.e. wrong). Reverse angled impeller blades (like the stock ones) are designed for more consistent flow over a wide range of speeds and pressures. The electric pump only has one speed, but there may be different head pressures depending on the "openness" of the t-stat, so.... I guess I'd really have to see the pressure vs. flow curve before concluding if it's right or wrong.
https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none
Source:
https://mechanicalengineeringblag.wo...ckward-curved/
so , looking at csr water pumps via google images it would seem our pumps aren't so much , "wrong" as they are "the way" csr does their impellers
it would appear they ALL have the same twist to the veins of the impeller..
same to the right twist so to say regardless if a nissan pump , a LS chevy pump or whatever..
thinking maybe ALL their motors turn the same direction thus making this so..(?)
more important and probably worth some modeling clay , is the relationship / clearance of the impeller veins in relation to the cavity in the housing
thinking every aftermarket std style pump I've used needed the edges ground down slightly so it didn't rub the housing .. without using a paper gasket
(paper is for writing on .. cork is for keeping the note dry in the bottle..)
http://assets.superstreetonline.com/...width=&height=
i know the neons used a standard set of viens but srt4 went to an impeller for 20% more flow, could that be fitted ?
see photo #12, http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...rt-4/#photo-15
I'm going to be running a Flowkooler water pump on my new TIII engine. It has a very nice impeller design