Like the title says, looking to make a bearing set-up for the cast dual pivot A-arms and could have sworn someone else already did it. Can't find thread so who's gonna fess up????
:D
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Like the title says, looking to make a bearing set-up for the cast dual pivot A-arms and could have sworn someone else already did it. Can't find thread so who's gonna fess up????
:D
I believe Lengel did it. I had a chance to buy some arms that he had set up but figured they wouldn't be a good choice for the street.
I thought Rob L. had put something together fairly recently. Didn't Jay do them too?
All of my dual pivot K frames have a big soft rubber bearing, is that what you mean:p
Rob L. and myself have done it to stamped arms, not cast. If I were to do another set I'd do it like Rob's. Mine work very well but use more bearings which aren't cheap and probably not needed. I have 4 bearings per arm where Rob only has 2.
Love them on the street! I was really nervous making them as all I had read about them was from the BMW guys saying that after install the ride was really really harsh. Nothing could be further from the truth. In fact I really need to upgrade from the 2801 Eibachs to the 2804's to gain some spring rate back in the front end over bumps because now there's no big sticky rubber bushings adding spring rate to the front end. Our freeway used to have 6" deep ruts from the studded tires and they would jerk you around even with a good alignment. After the bushings you could drive down it, change lanes all with 1 finger on the wheel while eating a Taco Hell burrito and not think twice. Rail road tracks can be taken at WOT without the front tires missing a beat because the suspension just goes up and down over all the little imperfections that much easier. Turn in is RIGHT NOW! and you can whip the wheel back and forth fast enough to where you start to not be able to keep up with the cars reactions. I love them. The Energy suspension bushings for the 89/90 arms are good, but not like these. They totally transform the car and it's handling. After installing I drove to SoCal 2 weeks later for a funeral . The 22 was under construction while down there and traffic was taking the forced lane changes at 70-80MPH. It would of been very scary on stock bushings. But it was a blast on sphericals.
Yes, GLHNSLHT2 mentioned Rob L. having had done them, but I've searched and can't find a thread or any info on what he did?
I have pics of robs setup. I post them up in a lil bit.
.
He starts talking about them here:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...-Stocker/page8
post #285 if the page #'s don't come out the same. But yea the pics are gone. I didn't read farther much to see if he mentions a detailed process about them.
Awesome, thanks for the pics! And for finding the thread information guys!
Lizard juices are flowing..........
Copied and pasting instructions on Rob L.'s dual pivot stamped A-arm bearing mod for easy access and search feature
Re: '89 Daytona C/S NHRA Stocker
Part Numbers and Step-By-Step
Spherical bearings:
COM12 - 3/4" Hole 1.4375 OD .593 Width (available nearly anywhere) - Qty 4
High Misalignment Spacers:
BC Fabrication - 3/4 to 1/2" ID - Qty 8
http://myworld.ebay.com/bc_fab?_trksid=p2047675.l2559
Spacers - 1/2" ID x 3/8" Long - AllStar Performance P/N ALL18571 - Qty 2
Spacers - 1/2" ID x 1/4" Long - AllStar Performance P/N ALL18570 - Qty 6
http://www.jegs.com/i/Allstar+Perfor...18570/10002/-1
Misc 1/2" ID washers in varying thickness to use as shims
MonoBall Housings (Front) - UB Machine P/N 48-1213 (1-5/8" OD x 1-3/4" long) - Qty 2
MonoBall Housings (Rear) - UB Machine P/N 48-1213 [Ask for a custom OD of 1.688, it will cost a little more but they will do it] - Qty 2
MonoBal retainers - UB Machine P/N 48-5143 - Qty 4 (+ spares, you'll want them)
http://ubmachine.com/monoballhousings.html
I had to grind down the OD of both the front and rear housings on my belt sander just a couple thousands to get the light press fit I wanted in the arms.
step-by-step:
1) remove the arms from the car, of course.
2) remove the rubber or poly bushings from the front and rear pivots.
3) remove the housing from the front leg of the arms - this is tricky; I pounded the crap out them to get them to come out
4) grind the MonoBall housings to fit on a belt sander. You don't want them to be too tight or the ball will be very stiff.
5) Lightly press fit the MonoBall housings into the arms front and rear legs so that they are centered (the rears fill the arm front to back, the front sticks out about 1/4" each end)
6) Tack weld to secure
7) Clean, sand blast, paint, etc. to your desire
8) Install bearings
9) Install retainers
10) Install arms back into car using the spacers (front legs get 2-1/4" spacers each, rears get 1-1/4" and 1-3/8" each) and washers as needed using new 1/2 x 4" bolts and nylock nuts. I put all the spacers/washers to the front of the arms to push the wheels as far to the rear as possible and I got the exact stock wheel placement, as far as I can tell.
Is this for the charger or another car? I thought you were running tube a arms.
So why was the bolt so long and with those spacers? Just to get the nut on the outside of the k-member pocket?
Yeah the bearing is pretty skinny so you have space it out.
No no, Not for the Charger lol It has the Awesome B.S. + DJ tubular A-Arms and K-member and that's for Life!!!!!:evil:Quote:
Originally Posted by thedon809
This is for a certain 11 second Daytona (or soon to be). Ran mid 12's on pump gas tune but on the street and even at the track on D/R's it hops like no other TM I've seen! :yuck:
With the power he will be making, really no reason to mess about with anything But solid bearing joints. ;)
That's what I figured. I plan on going with bearings which is why I bothered Rob for those pictures. Have a dual pivot k frame a nice gentleman is holding for me.
Looking at the pics I only have one Q.
I'm guessing that the mono ball bearings have clips to secure them in place or how is back and forth (Thrust) controlled?
Or am I missing something?
its pinched by the spacers.
Yes, the housings I welded in have a circlip to retain the bearing in the housing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadow
And, since DropBox changed their public folder policy, I moved all of my Daytona pics over to Flickr. There are more pics of the bearing'd a-arms there...
https://www.flickr.com/gp/146396513@N07/87k49U
That would have been my worst fear, because it would mean the A-arm could move back and forth, having nothing securing the inner bearing to the housings ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by masterjr33
That's what I figured, but always best to ask and Thanks for the Speedy reply!Quote:
Originally Posted by ShelGame
Hope you don't mind me reviving this in a new thread! :nod: