perfect front mount I-C for charger ??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-3-5...-/183638487465

found this one today - figured there should be some left at the end of the month so I thought I'd safe to share the listing

a little research said look for a 10-12 inch tube length and a down flow design ..

same side in/out in 3 inch and a 25 x 10 x 3 1/2 bar & plate core

I figure if it's to big at least it's not to big in a way that will hurt either flow or cooling
the extra size I'm hoping , if any, is simply redundant

- checking size in the car it will place it evenly in the area before the rad and should therefore I'd figure have a pretty even pressure and flow through it and into the rad

car is non a/c

I even have room for twin fans either in front or behind it .. and I found a perfect shrouded twin 12 inch fans that will fit perfectly too

seems to want to fit my car easy with ample space for elbows at the in/out after quick check with the tape measure

any input on CXRacing intercoolers ?
.. it's not one of their really cheep ones so I have some hope I finally found one I actually like that might be worth owning

and bonus..I get to keep my nice minty non intercooled charger turbo rad & it's nice minty o-e fan too..I just have to bump 'em over for the I-C hoses to get past

I started the afternoon thinking maybe I should put my daytona rad & I-C in today
... but my existing rad's toooo nice to lose lol

and I finished the afternoon confirming the 3/4 x 3/4 x 4 foot piece of square aluminum tube I happen to have IS long enough to make two vertical upright mount bars
..with enough left over to make spacers and installation bits n bites

looks to be good bar and plate. They're ok. I wouldn't worry about fans on it. Just make sure to have all the shrouding in the nose in place, make a plate that blocks off any huge holes where your i/c pipes go through. You should know that you want any air that goes into the nose openings to have to go through the i/c and radiator. If it can go around it it will and you'll lose cooling efficiency and create front end lift. The SC's were pretty sealed off from the factory which is good, so as long as you seal any new holes you should be good to go.

thanks I was hoping not to hear "don't buy it , it'll be to thin or full of leaks" or some such ..

(was reading their half price ball bearing turbos are good for about 1000 miles , maybe)

and yeah sadly ALL the little bits that seal up the nose are missing , probably as the nose was replaced (been hit)

fans were more about thinking of cooling it down when it's not moving
I've had many long cool downs in the driveway after one of my glowing turbine housing pulls up the hill in front of the house

looks like I FINALLY get to actually do something this year besides shop and plan (& ask questions lol)

finally got everything for a simple TII swap except a one piece fuel rail and a couple of little gaskets n seals n such

finally got a 50 way L body dash harness so I can use my K car turbo smec harness .. and my MP 88-9 smec for a starting point along with the entire top end saved from my TII turbo z and a spare one piece intake so I can save the 2 piece for my engine project and still be able to work on it (yea saved junk)

nothing spectacular but I'll at least be at the base starting point for my project , maybe by the end of the summer

That's similar to the one I have in my Charger, although mine's only 3" thick and 2.5" inlet/outlet. 2.5" was all the room I could get between the radiator and the driver's side of the radiator support before the radiator hit the alternator, and it's really tight. If you want 3" pipes, you'll probably need to cut some sheet metal. As for the ducting to seal it up, I just got some aluminum sheet from the hardware store and cut to fit. My radiator fan is from a V6 AA body with the shroud trimmed to fit the Charger radiator core, and I have no issues with the car running hot.

lol - yeah I saw it looks tight there
a little slash n bend is not a problem..
have one already -- www.google.com/search?q=air+powered+body+saw&hl=en-GB&sourceid=gd&rlz=1Q1GGLD_enCA728CA728

(ps they all seem to be identical except brand names and prices .. know what I mean vern ?)

might even be some nice rust free wheel opening arches come up for sale in a year or so....

I found steel bolt on flares with the correct "squared arch" and flat edge like the stock openings
.. for some 80's toyota , couple of notches below a supra but something similar

I've been shopping the price
(having an instant 37% mark up at the dollar exchange ..it matters lol)

best price yet right from the manufacturer
http://www1.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...ry_Code=IC35CO

seems to run around $350-ish USD on ebay (+170 USD shipping +37% exchange rate on total)

so looks like I have NEXT month's hobby budget partially spent..

while searching I thought I was finding it cheaper but there was a small difference as most of the listings are for the smaller
25 1/2 x 13 x 3 1/2

THIS one is
25 1/2 x 16 x 3 1/2

- that three inches gets me to the "ballpark" tube length my research said to look for

the page linked above had a price of 150
it's been replaced by a new page with a 250 price tag .. still better then ebay

I have to find the new link in my PC again