1988 CSX-T (SHADOW ES) AC conversion to R134a

SO I am looking to fix my CSX-T's AC it was R-12 . looking up how to do this most just vaccum out and recharge , not the way I want to do it.

best method replace all this , in my case the compressor is dead.
so. 0) compressor

1) AC flush kit2) Complete HNBR O-ring kit for your vehicle
3) R134a retrofit kit with R-134a port adapters, oi, port caps and retrofit label
4) R134a pressure switches
5) R134a orifice tube
6) New barrier style hoses for pre-1990’s vehicle
7) New R134a accumulator/dryer

I want to know if 4 , 5 and 7 are for real (r134 type) or is it just a clean new one you need, or is there special R134 types for shadows etc.

also should you change out the expansion valve too.?

anybody know

I have done this the BAD way not replacing all this stuff and just dumped r134 in , works but no so good

IF I DO THIS THE RIGHT WAY AND IT WORKS GOOD OTHERS CAN LEARN TOO.

thanks for any input.

LINK http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com...stem-to-r134a/
Dave L

You've got the right idea, change as much as you can. The pressure switches you will probably not find new anymore so clean and reuse unless you suspect they are not working correctly.
There is no orifice tube in our AC systems, its all done in the expansion valve. The receiver dryer does not matter, what does matter is that it comes sealed and stays sealed until your assembling and ready to pull a vacuum. One of those parts your better off buying in person so you can refuse acceptance when the sealing caps are missing.

Wherever you need to use the port adapters remove the original valve stem and the plastic depressor thing on the bottom of the adapter to provide the least flow obstruction.

These cars (including the 88 CSX-T) do not use an orifice tube, they use an Expansion Valve instead, and they use gaskets rather than HNBR O-rings. I am unaware of R134a-specific pressure switches, expansion valves, and receiver/driers, and new hoses may or may not be barrier hoses.

To retrofit, assuming you have a good compressor, hoses, condenser, and evaporator, get #1, 3, and 7, a vehicle-specific gasket kit, a bottle of Nylog (helps the gaskets seal), PAG oil, R-134A refrigerant, and optionally a new Expansion valve. One thought though, it might be worth changing over to a parallel flow condenser (which will require changing the hose connections to the condenser) for better cooling of the compressed gasses and better functioning A/C.

Use the flush kit to clean the evaporator and hoses, remove the compressor from the car and pour all the old mineral oil out of the compressor. If you have the stock serpentine condenser (not a parallel flow), you can use a flush kit to flush the old oil out of the condenser. Fill with the correct amount of PAG oil, reinstall the condenser, put nylog on the new gaskets, put together with the new parts, and install the 134 port adapters. Pull a good strong vacuum to remove moisture from the system then ensure that the system holds vacuum before filling with the correct amount of 134. There are other details about how much vacuum to pull to get all moisture out of the system and for how long, and how to charge the system, but those are the main steps.

One thought though, it might be worth changing over to a parallel flow condenser (which will require changing the hose connections to the condenser) for better cooling of the compressed gasses and better functioning A/C.

Or look into alternative refrigerants that are compatible with the mineral oil already in the system and skip the flush and parallel-flow condenser. The hydrocarbon-based refrigerants work very well on a retrofit and are flammable under only certain conditions. One refrigerant that has been successfully used before is Duracool 12a which has some benefits over R-134a. Another member has been successfully using R152a (computer duster spray cans) as refrigerant in his car, which is cheap and readily available but still flammable.

Do your due dilligence and find what works best for you. One big advantage to R-134a is anybody can work on the system after it has been retrofitted, whereas some shops may refuse to work on a car with the alternative refrigerants.

Good luck!

Many years ago, I followed what Warren suggesting and it did work. I found the Nylog did not work very well and someone on the forum suggested Red Loctite threadlocker which worked great!
I also found if you have a really good vacuum pump ( mine is 1 micron) it is able to remove the water from the 4A molecular sieves in the receiver dryer after a night of pump down. I also have a 10^ -8 Torr inverted magnetron vacuum gauge( nearly 10 trillionth of an atmosphere) to ensure the water and crap are evaporated.

On the flanges of the receiver-dryer I have used anaerobic sealant when nothing else would seal it up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by csxtra

Another member has been successfully using R152a (computer duster spray cans) as refrigerant in his car, which is cheap and readily available but still flammable.

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computer duster rocks! its in my 07 town and country and my 02 subaru and my moms 05 300 right now. blows ice cold. im going to put it in my reliant when i get a different parallel flow condenser. the one i have is a little small. and i want to swap in my aluminum sirocco style radiator and have a condenser that is similar sized to that. im not sure that my 3 core honda radiator will cool enough with my excessive intercooler and a AC condenser.

computer duster should be used with ester oil (compatible with mineral if a little mineral is left in the system) or PAG (which requires a flush)

Brian

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by chromguy

someone on the forum suggested Red Loctite threadlocker which worked great!

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did you use loctite on the gaskets? not the o rings i take it....

Brian

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo

computer duster rocks!

did you use loctite on the gaskets? not the o rings i take it....

Brian

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How did you attach the can to the AC manifold? does the duster work with stock parts?

Yes I have used loctite on both gaskets and orings.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 135sohc

On the flanges of the receiver-dryer I have used anaerobic sealant when nothing else would seal it up.

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Yup same here...,maybe you suggested the idea to me???

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chromguy

How did you attach the can to the AC manifold? does the duster work with stock parts?

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AC can side tap. eBay 10$ when I got mine.

I've seen folks charge r12 with it and r134a. You just gotta be mindful of the oil because it's closer to r134a molecularly.

You need less of it though.

Duster/R152a is difluoroethane. R134a is tetrafluoroethane.

Brian

Quote:

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Originally Posted by csxtra

These cars (including the 88 CSX-T) do not use an orifice tube, they use an Expansion Valve instead, and they use gaskets rather than HNBR O-rings. I am unaware of R134a-specific pressure switches, expansion valves, and receiver/driers, and new hoses may or may not be barrier hoses.!

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I don't know if its actually different, but an expansion valve from a 2000 Neon is the same as the older cars and is made for an R134a system.