Broken head bolts - tips advice?

Well searching old threads didn't bring anything up - my son and I are working on his 83 Shelby clone, A465 trans locked a bearing so I rebuilt the trans and he's getting ready to put it back in. Figured he'd open the motor (2.2 NA, non-shelby) and replace the 30 year old gaskets and seals, 43K on the motor, slight seepage. When he went to pull the head he broke 2 of the bolts off - the 10mm head bolts. One is flush with the top of the head, looks to be coked in with burnt oil, #4 back of the motor by the trans. The other broke off further down and is on the back side between 2&3. The head is stuck fast to the block still, I'm going to work on it this week.

Back in the day I tore many 2.2s and 2.5s down for parts and never had this happen.

Any tips or tricks?

I'm hoping the one is not flush with the block - I've seen the washer/Nut weld fix but never tried it.... Maybe this will be my first attempt.

Get some PB blaster and start soaking it.

Welding on a nut/bolt does work also.

Had to get the head off first - ended up using a port-a-power to slide the head off the long stud, the short broken one (about 1" above the deck) wasn't a problem.

Added heat, soaking in Blaster, I'll heat cycle it with a propane torch a few more times before I try the vise grips.

Careful when re-torquing head bolts. Remember they're 10mm not 11 mm. I always drill out and retap to 11mm on the pre-86 engines, but that may be overkill for you. You might think why did I have to change out that headgasket, but you were wise to do so, even with the problems you encountered.
Todd

Thanks Todd, good point - as it's stock and carbureted I think we'll leave the 10mm bolts. It only came apart to look at the cyls while the VC gasket needed replaced and the rear main is seeping. Head gasket was fine. Turns out cylinders are too, Valves look good as well - doesn't even have the standard crack between seats!

We'll definitely re-chase the block threads before re-assembly.

gears351. If the 2nd bolt is still in the block below the surface you need 3 things. 1st is a fire wrench, 2nd is a LEFT HAND DRILL BIT smaller in circumference THEN THE 10MM head bolt threads, and 3rd is a stick or chunk of BEES WAX. AND PARAFIN WILL NOT WORK IT'S GOTTA BE BEEZ WAX. HEAT UP THAT SECTION OF THE BLOCK TO "RED" AND STICK THE BEEZ WAX OVER THE BROCKEN HEAD BOLT. The beez wax will "wick" down into the threads then center punch the broken bolt top and drill it broken bolt out in reverse of course with your new left handed bit. I'll be 82 in 3 weeks come Memorial Day Weekend and I was in my 20s when the guy my age now showed me that trick with the Beez Wax. Works for removing Block plugs in 440s too. Do the Beez Wax trick and use a flat blade screw driver cross corner and those block plugs will walk right out. Now add a chunk of beez wax to your tool box and no need to thank me. It's one of those play it forward things, Jer

Thanks Jer, we've got beehives so coming up with the bees wax won't be a problem - luckily they came right out with visegrips last night. I've not ever successfully drilled out a broken bolt but have been able to get a LH bit to grab and remove the broken bolt. Happy birthday if I forget Memorial Day weekend.

You're welcome gears351. Do the 3 steps in the order I've suggested and that left handed bit will cut into that bolt that is no longer "grade 8" if you do it while it's hot. I snapped off a motor mount bolt in a 351 Cleveland one time and drilled it out of the block while that engine was hanging in my Cherry Picker and I was upside down underneath it. FWIW, I have as set of 8 left handed bits that have been in my tool box since the '70s. Funny memory now but not in August of '83. ('73 Mach 'Stang for our daughters 16th BD with a fresh 351 Cleveland, and thanks for the HB wishes too. You have an interesting Avitar BTW:thumb:. Jer

That avatar is my Turbo Dakota project - burned to the ground 6 yrs ago, smelled fuel, pulled over, flames erupted from under the hood - near as I can figure the fuel pressure sender from the cheap Ebay gauge let loose.....

I've got a 71 mach 1 in the barn I'm hoping to get to some day (had it since 1995 but haven't driven it yet - started the motor (351W) about 4 yrs ago with the open headers, building a stroker 393 for it).

I ordered a '71 351C Mach I in October '70 for my wife and when it got to the dealership it had a Cougar rim blow steering wheel on it. I laughed and said I like it. (Some factory Rats addition to a way loaded up car I think) The dealership would not deliver the car 'til FOMOCO replaced the Rim Blow with the proper 'Stang wheel. Took 'um another week to get the correct wheel and I was P.O.d. Funny story but true, Jer