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I'd like to upgrade the Lancer fusible links since I just blew one and do not want to cut up the harness as the service manual states. Anyone have good experience with swapping one from a newer vehicle and make it look somewhat stock? This is for my Lancer, so there should be much more room than in my GLHS. Also interested if someone did, were you able to find the terminals so it can be done more cleanly than splicing wires.
I'm interested in this too. Hopefully someone has found a nice modular solution, or a good PDC that actually has terminals available for it.
Same here. I have seen reference to those using Mopar PDC from early Jeeps and certain Mopar cars
Well I went to the parts yard to see what all was available. I stuck with Chrysler parts, but if I have time I may go back and see if there is anything that a tad smaller. This one will fit, but I'll need to modify the power module case. Would prefer not to do it, but it seems to be a good overall size and would replace all the relays right there and would allow for relays for the headlights. I won't be using the older style relays and that still leaves 8 mini relays and over 20 fuses. Wish the footprint was small enough so I didn't have to modify the power module, but don't see a way around it unless I can find one about 3-4" deep and about 6-7" wide. Plan to work on it a little more when I have time.
This came out of a mid 2000s Stratus and it was only $10. :)
Attachment 65202
Attachment 65203
Attachment 65204
1st gen Neon....
Small and wire colors even 90% match. I posted details years ago.
If I can find one locally I will for sure grab it. This was all they had along with a similar year Neon. The only difference was the positive terminal post was missing on the Neon one, but the footprint was the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryant
Thanks Rich!
Can you get terminals for them? That's what's stopped me from finishing off my Omni. I would like to populate the relay locations with something that draws some amps and I don't want to track down a ton of them to pull the couple wires big enough from each one.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryant
Found in first gen Taurus.
Uses MAXI fuse which is perfect for replacing the fusible links.
http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe...20fusebox1.jpg
http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe...20fusebox2.jpg
Well that's pretty nice too! Thanks Harry!
I had looked at the Taurus ones as I had a 1994 LX, I looked at a number of Chrysler ones, finally found a nice one on a 1996 Stratus, later found it was also used with some different relays in a Sebring convertible. It has 4 large Bosch relays and up to 8 smaller relays for fog lights, EATC control, wipers high/low and intermittent, AC clutch. 9 maxi fuses and 10 mini fuses.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=65421&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=65420&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=65422&stc=1
That looks great. Assuming you have an H body or something comparable?
K body convertible (K-27). My second one, first was totaled by a Mercedes ML320 in 2009 when they were cousins. Since I am basically "resto-modding" the car I figured a much improved PDC was in order. Ford also has some nice ones but the relay assortment sold me on this. On the stratus and Sebring they mount with the long portion forward and sit just inboard and up from the in the fender battery location which is the reason for the prominently labeled positive stud. It took a bit of experimenting to get battery, SBEC and PDC to all fit just forward of the strut tower. Since all the needed relays are in the PDC I just laid it out with the main harness coming in the back and exiting out the bottom front.
If you look at the bottom picture you can see the bracket I built for the two "feet" near the battery stud to attach to, outer end has a similar mount so the covers can be easily removed. One of the maxi fuses isn't used, it was for the ABS system and the wiper relays aren't used as the 1990 BCM I am using contains them.
One of the issues I had with my first one was adequate cooling for the AC condenser for R134, the Turbo II radiator and intercooler only allow maybe 2/3 of the condenser to be cooled in traffic resulting in a couple of fried belts. I used a pair of fans from a 1999 Ford Contour reversed to pushers in front of the radiator wall, foam seals and even boxed in the safety latch area. Low speed is through a resistor, high is straight battery feed. The Stratus PDC has two fan relays, low and high. Low is ECU controlled and on the Stratus high would be too. Since the SBEC doesn't have the high speed fan circuits, I used a switch from a 1993 Grand Caravan (factory R134 system). while charging it, when the pressure went a bit high, it kicked the fans to high, and I watched the pressure drop back pretty quickly.
Anyone in the Greater Bay Area know how to do this? I'm located in Oakland, CA.
I'll pay $$ + throw in a Shelby steering wheel + Covid Free Pizza and drink.
This would go in Mutt, 1985 Shelby Charger TII'd.
lmk,
Rod Enis
I don't know about in your Bay Area, but I am just East of Chesapeake Bay on the other side of the country. Anyone who is decent with wiring can do it, primarily all the fusible links are replaced by maxi-fuses and the collection of relays on the left shock tower are moved into the PDC. The wiring on the left side of the hood is run through the PDC. On the 1986 K body, the wires come through the bulkhead connector and split apart, lighting is duplicated left and right sides, horns are on the right power module and battery are left front behind the headlight. Since I moved my cooling fan to the front side of the AC condenser and radiator/intercooler, I have all my relays in one place. The engine wiring is from a 1991 Shadow 2.5L turbo automatic and the injector, O2 sensor and charge temperature sensor wiring run across the cowl and connect on the right side of the engine, alternator, AC and ground run across the front of the engine.