I have an 88 Aries coupe that I want to swtich over to a turbo engine of any type, what is the easiest way to make this happen? Not going to build an engine for this though.....
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I have an 88 Aries coupe that I want to swtich over to a turbo engine of any type, what is the easiest way to make this happen? Not going to build an engine for this though.....
https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/5633448638.html
Make sure if drives ok, buy it, swap everything over.
89 turbo van harness swap. relocate 2 pins for the windshield wiper motor that are in the wrong place on the firewall connector (cant remember the exact location)Quote:
Originally Posted by Striker2237
88-89 2.2 T2 SMEC if you do a 2.2 turbo or 89 2.5L T1 SMEC if you go 2.5L.
swap in a turbo fuel pump.
swap in turbo motor and trans.
if you are ballsy like Vigo, you toss a turbo head and manifolds on your 2.2L block. 3-speed auto for a tbi will die though with power.
Brian
I used an 89 van harness to turbo my 89 Aries. It was more work making it look good in the engine bay than actually making it run, which was easy.
I've had good results using a 2.5 TBI bottom end with turbo. I maxed out a Mitsu turbo (the smallest one these cars came with) at 230hp which was 14.0 in my van but potentially DEEP 13s in an Aries. And that's not to say i found the limits of the tbi bottom end, JUST the turbo. I intend to explore this further with a turbo upgrade.
One thing you can do rather than upgrading your intank fuel pump is add an external inline pump to it. Depending on how crappy your tank straps look this could be easier or harder than just replacing the in-tank pump, but the cost is about the same.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8248
Cool, so get a turbo pump, injector, harness, head, manifolds, ECU and anything else? I plan to blow this block then transition to the common block once that happens.
You technically don't need to swap the head.
If you don't use a turbo block you have to make your own oil drain tube for the turbocharger. I used part of the EGR pipe from the TBI setup (after a thorough cleaning) into the oil pan, but be careful about CV axle clearance. It's also possible to drill the block in the stock location while the head is off but you would need to have the oil pan to do that as well.
If he doesn't at least change the valve, won't they burn up?
Honestly the "best way" would be to find a turbo parts car. Everything you need to do the swap is now in your back yard. No having to chasing down parts and may be more cost effective too. Also a turbo car has better brakes/ suspension components then a N/A car thats easy to swap too. The up graded brakes and suspension will make the car more fun to drive too! Just my 2 cents.
'Not in a 1/4 mile pull' is what my experience suggests. I don't even keep track of which of my heads have turbo valves and which don't anymore. I've never replaced or even seen a burned valve in an 8v motor.Quote:
If he doesn't at least change the valve, won't they burn up?
I used an '89 Caravan turbo harness to convert an '85 GLH n/a (and then my '86 GLH Turbo) to SMEC. It was a straightforward swap for the most part.
Things to watch out for:
1. The bulkhead connection.
Take note of what kind of connection the under hood wiring makes at the firewall. Is your car a bolt-on connection or does it go through a large grommet and then connect via a large connector under the dash? This could influence your donor harness decision as far as getting something as compatible as possible with little fuss.
2. The Caravan harness is quite bulky. You will have to shorten some things (like TPS/AIS). You'll have to change out the headlight connectors and probably change the windshield washer connections. The Caravan turbo under hood harness has a bunch of relays mounted on a long bar which you'll probably have to relocate.
3. With the Caravan turbo harness, you'll have to add the charge temp sensor if you plan to run a 2.2L Turbo II setup. If you install a 2.5L Turbo I, you should be OK without it. If you add an intercooler, you might consider getting a custom cal and adding in the wiring for the charge temp sensor.
4. There are a lot of ways to skin a cat, so to speak. A Caravan harness will work, but there are quite a few ways to make this work. I've done it a couple different ways over the years, but a good understanding of Chrysler fuel injection is essential. Get yourself some FSMs (Factory Service Manuals).
I'm with Harry and Marc on this one. Buy a donor car for cheap and use anything you want off of it, obviously drivetrain but what about when you want upgraded turbo spec brakes/suspension? Wanna spend thousands more acquiring all that stuff too? With a donor car it's all parked out back... Currently there is a 91 Shelby Daytona 2.5 turbo/568 10-12 miles from my house that would make an ultimate donor car. Unfortunately I'm heavy on cars and light on space:(
Thanks a lot guys! I was not too concerned with the valves as its only going to be driven calmly (good weather cruises) or at the 1/4 so I was thinking any valves would work. I found a common block turbo 1 near me that I will likely use.
Honestly not concerned with suspension and the brakes are already new, I kinda like the 70s boat feel it has going on now. I'm only going to change it if it can't hook up with drag radials.
Now I am just trying to get my head around the electrical systems, my last project did not require much on that end!
If you want it to hook up with drag radials build a 2.2/auto so it'll be gutless below 15psi. :p
The 70's boat feel is fun until you're at the end of the 1/4 and stamp the brakes and you get sea sick trying to keep it straight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Striker2237
My 87 T&C wagon has SRT-4 neon struts up front and a 1 1/8" sway bar and Shelby Daytona rear springs with KYB GR2 shocks. It handles a lot better than my bone stock 89 Reliant did.