'91 Shadow 2.5L

Hi all, I'm new here as you can see. I recently purchased a '91 Shadow Turbo 2.5L off a coworker with ~50k miles! Excellent shape, driven maybe 1000 miles a year for the past 10 years and garage kept. Wanting to get back to modding and previously drove a Subaru (sold for financial reasons) that was pretty fun. I've read up on the recommended 'Turbo Database' from http://www.thedodgegarage.com and after I get the vehicle checked out I want to start modding it for performance. I've compiled a list that I could use a little help with.

- Gauge pod (http://www.fwdperformance.com/store/...&ProductID=248
- G-valve (couldn't find this on fwdperformance) their site doesn't have the best navigation tbh.
- A/F gauges (which ones do you recommend?)
- Any other gauges?
- What oil/fuel type should I go with?
- Any other "must haves?"
- Replace the exhaust?

As a side note, this will be my daily driver for at least a year, maybe longer so I would like for it to be fun yet reliable.

Welcome to the site. If it were me, I would just up the boost a little and enjoy it. A G valve and stock functional boost gauge should be all you need for the most part.

If you want a WBO2, I can recommend the SLC Free unit which you make yourself. The whole thing is inexpensive and fun to put together.

As far as oil, I have always used a synthetic 10w30 and called it a day. You can use an oil filter from a Mustang 5.0 (the older ones like a 1990) for more filtering and a little extra capacity.

If the exhaust is in good shape, I would probably leave it be with the turbo you have on that car.

Pics of the car? What's the color? Trans?

If you want better braking, you can upgrade the front brakes by changing from stock (54mm caliper, 10.25"rotor) to the 60mm caliper with adapter bracket and 11" rotors. Cordes recommended me to contact Rich Byrant to get a set of Hawk HPS pads. Man do they make a difference. I am convinced the 11" and Hawk has saved me and the car more than once with the crazy Toronto drivers.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...my-87-Sundance RockAuto 91 Sprit R/T with 2.2 Turbo and 15" wheels
http://rbryant.freeshell.org/brake_products.htm. Rich is a great seller, prompt and professional.

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Originally Posted by chromguy

If you want better braking, you can upgrade the front brakes by changing from stock (54mm caliper, 10.25"rotor) to the 60mm caliper with adapter bracket and 11" rotors. Cordes recommended me to contact Rich Byrant to get a set of Hawk HPS pads. Man do they make a difference. I am convinced the 11" and Hawk has saved me and the car more than once with the crazy Toronto drivers.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...my-87-Sundance RockAuto 91 Sprit R/T with 2.2 Turbo and 15" wheels
http://rbryant.freeshell.org/brake_products.htm. Rich is a great seller, prompt and professional.

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With a 91+ car, that's about the best upgrade you can do for the money IMO.

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Originally Posted by cordes

With a 91+ car, that's about the best upgrade you can do for the money IMO.

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I agree, in fact I would extend that to the pre 91 as all you need extra is a 91+ knuckle/hub/flexline for P/G bodies.

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Originally Posted by chromguy

I agree, in fact I would extend that to the pre 91 as all you need extra is a 91+ knuckle/hub/flexline for P/G bodies.

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The ball joint is different too.

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Originally Posted by cordes

The ball joint is different too.

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When I did my 87 upgrade, I noticed that the ball joint itself is the same but the bolt is larger on the 91+
as per discussion http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...=1#post1112524

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Originally Posted by chromguy

When I did my 87 upgrade, I noticed that the ball joint itself is the same but the bolt is larger on the 91+
as per discussion http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...=1#post1112524

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Thanks for the correction. It is indeed the bolt which is actually bigger. I always replace the ball joints when I do this swap, and I order the ball joint for the 91+ cars they generally come with the new pinch bolt.

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Originally Posted by cordes

Welcome to the site. If it were me, I would just up the boost a little and enjoy it. A G valve and stock functional boost gauge should be all you need for the most part.

If you want a WBO2, I can recommend the SLC Free unit which you make yourself. The whole thing is inexpensive and fun to put together.

As far as oil, I have always used a synthetic 10w30 and called it a day. You can use an oil filter from a Mustang 5.0 (the older ones like a 1990) for more filtering and a little extra capacity.

If the exhaust is in good shape, I would probably leave it be with the turbo you have on that car.

Pics of the car? What's the color? Trans?

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Sorry for the late response. Pics to come later this week. It's a red automatic transmission.

Where should I mount the boost gauge?
Where can I buy a g valve?
How do I turn up the boost?

Exhaust seems good but I am getting a squeaking noise when the engine is running. Sounds like a belt maybe? I am going to get it checked out as it's rather annoying. Thank you all for the warm welcome!

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The squeaking is almost certainly the accessory drive belt. It's easy enough to tighten up. I believe it should be a 13mm nut on the lock for the tensioner, and 13mm for the adjustment screw.

I would put the boost gauge somewhere out of the way. I'm not sure where you can buy a G valve these days. I always make my own. I believe there are plans for them in the knowledge center. Once you have the G valve hooked up properly you just tighten it to increase boost.

Here are the basic plans for a G valve.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/kn...st-Controllers

WELCOME!!

Here's a link to a great site, Gus is in Heaven now but he accomplished much and explained boost control etc. clearly.

Thanks
Randy

http://www.gusmahon.org/index_main.htm

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Originally Posted by cordes

Here are the basic plans for a G valve.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/kn...st-Controllers

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This is more in depth than I can accomplish. I am not a super handy person, just casual upgrades. Would you be willing to make and sell me one? I'll pay for your trouble.

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Originally Posted by GLHS60

WELCOME!!

Here's a link to a great site, Gus is in Heaven now but he accomplished much and explained boost control etc. clearly.

Thanks
Randy

http://www.gusmahon.org/index_main.htm

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Thanks for that!

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Originally Posted by Shadow317

This is more in depth than I can accomplish. I am not a super handy person, just casual upgrades. Would you be willing to make and sell me one? I'll pay for your trouble.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

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Just noticed you're in Indy. I'll send you a PM.

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Originally Posted by Shadow317

Thanks for that!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

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Once you figure it out, boost control is simple magic!!

I have 4 boost levels controlled by a heater fan switch mounted on my shifter.

Boost pressure acting on the wastegate actuator spring pneumatically controls boost.

Inside the sealed actuator is a diaphragm with a spring acting on one side.

Our actuator springs are approx 7 lbs so the wastegate starts to open at about 7 psi.

Bleeding some boost pressure off the intake manifold vacuum/pressure line to the wastegate actuator has the same effect as using a wastegate actuator with a stiffer spring.

The factory boost control solenoid simply bleeds a bit of pressure out of the line to reduce the pressure the wastegate "sees".

G valves are a more elaborate form of a bleed as they dont open, or bleed, until a predetermined threshold.

A simple bled is the way to start until you get it straight in your own mind.

ONE PSI at a time is recommended, with a max of 10 PSI!!

TOO much boost can instantly ruin an Engine !!!!!

Anyone following feel free to correct/edit or better explain what I just said.

I'm recovering from a stroke and relearning to type and express my thoughts.

Thanks
Randy

Ok so I figured I would post here. I am not sure where my boost gauge is and why my vehicle wouldn't have one. I've been talking with Cordes but maybe someone can make sense of it. Here are the pictures of my car. What do I own??

Edit: the owners manual has a picture of the boost gauge where I would expect but has an asterisk that says "if so equipped"
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a3213294dd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d81155e7ac.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...91dcc30f83.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5b072cb748.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b4110b74b5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...32702f1a58.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bc72a4b035.jpg

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The Engine is a NA ( Normally Aspirated) EFI and since it is not a turbo there is no boost gauge. The Engine looks different if it is a TURBO
The car look like it is in great shape.

Indeed. I would rock that thing for the next 20 years minimum. Too bad it isn't the 5 speed. That's an indestructible combination.

Took it to a trusted shop I've used for a few years and they say I need the following

valve cover gasket
timing belt
battery is old
repacking wheel bearing and replacing cylinders
brake fluid
replace 2 front tires (dry rotted)
alignment
oil change
exhaust in bad shape (repair)

Repairs cost more than I paid for the car itself :eek::eek:

I would try to find a later valve cover with the one piece gasket. They're much nicer and will be much less prone to leakage IMO.

I would let the timing belt go until it breaks, as these are non-interference engines. Everything else I would probably take care of too. I have a video for the wheel bearings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ipz-NH-V_1c