89 Caravan ES 2.4 SRT-4 Swap

I am actually doing this backwards because the project is for the most part done but I have been very busy and didn't have time to post it. I started the actual swap in the middle of July. I had the engine running by the end of August, and drove the van the first time in the middle of September. First I would like to thank everyone on the forum that has given me assistance especially A.J., Mike Marra, Dean Stillie, Ohio Rob, Jon (JohnnyMopar), Rob LLoyd (ShelGame), Rich Bryant, Simon, DJ, JT, Cindy at FWD Performance, Johnny at Polybushings, and Brian Bucar. These individuals really helped out with getting needed parts fast, answered my questions, and tunning help. About 3 years ago I picked up a 2.4 Turbo engine from a 04 GT cruiser. I was told it had a knock but for $250 for the complete engine I couldn't say no. I pulled the engine apart and found 3 spun rod bearings and rod 1 was a few revolutions from putting the rod through the block. I unscrewed the rod bolts by hand for this rod. My plans were to install this engine in my 91 shadow convertible (CSX Clone). I didn't know about the later blocks having an oil return in the back causing clearance issues with the starter when using the old transmissions. I clearanced the block and got a ND starter to fit but it was soo tight I was worried about having issues with the starter. Since I recently converted the shadow from an automatic to a A555 I didn't want to go back to an automatic. My 89 caravan had wiseco's with bad rings and was burning oil so I decided I will drop it in there. I picked up an neon 3 speed auto trans from the local yard. The engine was rebuilt with CP Pistons, Eagle H-Beams, Mopar crank, Darrel Cox oil pump, windage tray, crank scraper, baffle, new piston oilers, ARP head studs, 1mm os valves, new cams, rockers, lifters. The rotating assembly was balanced. Here are a few pictures of the van and engine. Sorry the pictures of the van were taken in early spring. I will get better pictures. http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...53003350_n.jpghttp://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/..._5807534_n.jpg http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps53107d25.jpghttp://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...pse5ee3c4b.jpg

Here is a picture of the engine assembled. http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7c285d1a.jpgFor the intake manifold I used a first gen DOHC neon manifold which I redrilled to fit the later head. Here is a picture of fitting the manifold and stratus accessories. http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...psd8a6c51a.jpg

Very cool sir. I'm excited to see the completed engine bay pics and what parts you used. I bought Ohio Rob's 2.4 van from the 2nd owner so these 2.4 swaps all of a sudden became more interesting to me. :p

The alternator bracket needed to be ground to clear the intake. The original 2.5 alternator will not fit correctly on the stratus alternator bracket so I choose to use the stratus alternator as well. Here is the engine with the alternator bracket and dizzy mounted. http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...psfd39e295.jpg

For the turbo I wanted to reuse my Turbonetics 46 trim hybrid from my 2.5 because it has low mileage. I bought AJ's cracked manifold to use as a template for a manifold but my father in law is a welding instructor and he was able to fix the manifold. The manifold ended up warping bad from rewelding so we made up a jig and straightened it in the press. I had a machine shop resurface it to make sure. I also was able to reuse the stainless lines from the 2.5. I just needed a few brass fittings. For the coolant return I ran it to the heater core return hose and used a brass T to connect it.http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...psa22c9fc2.jpghttp://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1aff9f3a.jpghttp://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9d3aba83.jpg

For the Distributor, I used Rich Bryant's adapter and I modified my distributor. For the distributor I ground the plastic welds slightly then repositioned the pickup wheel. The tabs fit into the holes. I then drilled and riveted the wheel back on. I had the housing bead blasted and installed a new Mopar HEP, Rich's terminals, new cap and rotor. The pictures above were when I was running Honda civic wires. They didn't fit the cap the best and I ended up using Rich's MSD wires which are very nice. Here are a few pictures when I pulled the old 2.5. Yes the engine compartment is blue. I was planning on spraying the van dark blue after I put the 2.5 in so I sprayed the compartment that time. But I ended up spraying the van Acura Nighthawk black. http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...psaa16e2cf.jpghttp://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4a30a7e0.jpghttp://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4a48b3c7.jpghttp://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4ca670d5.jpg

subscribed :thumb:

I figured why not do an intercooler upgrade. I was running the Volvo cooler but I had a large NPR Intercooler in my attic. Here are the 2 next to each other.http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps44dd265f.jpgThe cooler fit great with just a little trimming of the rad support and a bottom bracket. I used perforated angle with a few other angles welded to it. http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6bf0fbba.jpghttp://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1d972ce5.jpgI was in the process of sanding the engine compartment to prep it for paint. That is the reason everything is white.

I repaired a few broken spot welds in the engine compartment, finished prepping and gave it a fresh coat of nighthawk black base / clear. http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...pseafd449e.jpg

Engine is in!!! For the mounts I used the original 89 trans mount with a new insert. The front mount is a 96 caravan 2.4 entire mount assembly. I had to trim the engine bracket because the early 2.4's used a different pan. I ground some of the mount off and then welded in some additional bracing. The rad support mount is a new replacement piece for the 96 and just required me to elongate the holes to center the engine. Where the engine mount meets the rad support piece I had to elongate the hole about 1 inch. I later filled some of the original hole. For the most part it was a great fit. The hardest mount was the passenger side mount. For this mount I used the stratus engine bracket. I didn't want to use the too many neons bracket because the mount is in upside down and I don't trust the engine hanging on the bolt. After studying this quite a but I came up with measurements and made a temporary mount which consisted of a piece of angle and another piece of steel. I tried to calculate the height with the mount in the correct position. I didn't put much effort into the mount because it was the first attempt and my plan is to adjust accordingly after the engine is in. Well I should have played the lottery because after setting the engine in I set a level on the valve cover and it was perfectly level! Talk about luck.....http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2163b3b7.jpghttp://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps36bdb9ed.jpg Here is a picture of my final passenger mount. It consists of 3/8" angle and part of the factory mount. Please note some of the pictures after this may still have my temp mount. The 3/8" angle is overkill, but with spacing it worked out perfect. I figured who cares if its strong enough to probably support the entire van :). http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...psa1816d0c.jpg

For the fuel system, I reused my +40 injectors ( for now), a black dog neon fuel rail, Aeromotive 340 pump, aeromotive FPR. I reused my 89 throttle body with a homemade adapter I made out of aluminum. I had to use the neon TPS because the plug is in a different position and cleared the runners. I drilled and tapped the EGR port for a vacuum barb, and I drilled and tapped the neon map sensor hole which I used for the air charge sensor.http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8741257c.jpg The next picture shows the stratus alternator, fuel rail, etc.. installed. I also reinstalled the engine harness which I modified to relocate the components.http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7c1d110d.jpg

I went to install the radiator and quickly learned the factory fan will not fit. I ordered a 14" Be-Cool ultra slim fan. The fan is super thin and resolved this issue. I used a 180 thermostat. For the radiator hoses I found that since my radiator was already moved from the Volvo cooler, a 2003 Neon 2.0 upper radiator hose fit perfect. For the lower radiator hose I used the same hose but I had to shorten it a little. I needed to T into the hose for the heater core hose so I picked up a T for a kaats engine heater. The placement of the heater hose connection on the water pump would not work with the intake so I capped it with a rubber cap and hose clamp. For the heater hoses I used 3 heater hoses with 90 degree bends. One 90 went on the heater control valve and then around the engine to the lower rad support. The other 2 were used for the return line, I put a 90 on the intake line then ran this with the other hose above the trans where I cut it and installed a brass T for the turbo return. I then used the other 90 degree hose from this T to the heater control valve.

Power steering --- I used the stratus pump and slightly bent the original metal line. It worked perfect. I picked up a stratus reservoir and using a grinder straightened the bracket since it is made to be mounted on an angle. I mounted this to the firewall. I also used a new stratus balancer. If you ever do one of these buy a new mopar balancer. I originally ordered a replacement aftermarket. It was junk and sent it back. With the harmonic issues with these if you are not using the ATI damper use a new mopar stratus damper. The power steering used a belt for a stratus but since im not running A/C I had to find a shorter belt for the alternator. Turns out its a common belt. I will update this with the number.

Timing covers-- The engine had the inner covers for the later 2.4 turbo engine but the problem is with the stratus mount the outer covers have a large opening. What I found out and used is the early stratus outer covers fit the newer inner covers. The lower cover requires a notch to be ground on the bottom to clear the oil pump and the upper is bolt on but uses 2 of the 3 holes. The stratus upper has a slot in the rear which helps to lock it in place where the later one uses a bolt. I can see why they did this removing the upper cover at a JY. There is no room to access the rear bolt on a stratus if they put it there.

Transmission -- For the transmission I used a 97 Neon 3-spd. I rebuilt the trans with 404 steels, more clutches, TIG welded planets ( steel not cast ), welded and relined ( high energy) front band. Accumulator removed, shift kit, new pin, side, spiders and pin savers in the differential. All new bearings. For a torque converter I used a Dacco high stall lockup. For the front band, I sent it out to Alabama bands. These guys were great! I had to fab a bracket for the kickdown cable since I was using my original throttle body the cable would not work right using the neon configuration. I used part of the old bracket and a piece of angle. I re-used my large trans cooler which is mounted in front of the radiator.http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4a0628b6.jpghttp://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6964788d.jpghttp://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1ee6f8dd.jpghttp://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...psded46645.jpg One issue I had was the neon dipstick tube was in the way so I decided to use my old dipstick. Turns out the later trans has a slightly larger hole for the dipstick and the old stick was very loose. I stacked quite a few O-rings between the factory seals and it fit perfect.http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1de4e2e5.jpg

ECU -- I re-used the stock socketed SMEC. To assist tuning I am using a Moates Ostrich. I ran a USB cable into the engine compartment and installed a usb port in the lower console for easy access and a clean install. I also installed a second OBD data port in the interior. For extra safety I installed a "Kill" switch in the lower dash. This switch turns off the ADS relay in case if emergency. Rob Lloyd (shelgame) supplied me with a 2.4 base calibration based on his turbonator cal. I converted DJ and JT's timing tables over to this cal. Since I am running dished pistons it requires different timing tables.

Justin, not sure about the PT's, but most other 2.4's have a nipple on the water pump inlet pipe for the heater hose. Just an FYI.

Mike the PT had the nipple at the water pump inlet tube but with the 2.0 intake it would have been difficult to run the heater hose around it. I am guessing the Neon 2.0 DOHC used a metal line to get around this. I was also concerned with the hose rubbing the intake so I put a cap on the nipple and used the T on the lower hose.

Did yours look like this?
https://www.modernperformance.com/pr...engine_rebuild

It runs!! I cranked the engine over with the HEP disconnected sever times until I had oil pressure. I reconnected the HEP and she fired right up! I set the timing using an advance light and timing marks on the cams. I found the 2 timing marks ( one on each cam) used for setting the timing worked the best for setting the timing. I had to adjust the static pressure of my FPR. Otherwise, the alternator was charging and power steering pump working. http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps74154b2e.jpg