Got the email a few minutes ago. Thanks Wayne.
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Got the email a few minutes ago. Thanks Wayne.
Forgot the progress pic!
Attachment 62198
Wayne, just got my package. Very excited!
Glad to hear.
I didn't check the shipping updates yet.
When you guys get things setup, let me know if you have questions. And refer to my cheesy videos, as i think i hit all the initial setup and assembling the enclosure, and wiring pretty well.
If something stumps you, maybe i could try to do a livestream video, or video chat.
..... and assembled..... :)
i used some small plastic washers under the plain nuts that hold the arduino mega down as the traces on the board were kinda close.... and i overtighten just about everything that i dont use a torque wrench on. they were actually clips for rope lights with the tabs that hold the rope light itself cut off just leaving a plastic piece with a small hole in it.
i used the nylock nuts for the SD card slot trim.
went together pretty easy. i did get it the whole way together and then realize that i needed to shift the arduino mega over a hair so that the long side pieces would fit straight up and down. so back apart it came. :)
hope to do some playing tomorrow. :)
only one potential issue i see..... the side panels of the enclosure are probably going to rattle like crazy inside a solid motor mount 2.5L reliant lol.
Brian
Brian, once the top and bottom panels are secured to the aluminum stand-offs, the side panels shouldn't rattle.
You could mount this somewhere in the car and use some type of adhesive foam strips under it to help cushion/absorb shock.
I had asked the enclosure builder if some non-conductive washers were necessary under the nuts securing the mega. Although he said they weren't needed, i still like the idea of using some too.
And although the allen head machine screws look cool, i think the regular machine screws are more convenient if you are removing the top panel frequently.
In fact, i was test fitting the prototype enclosure with the v2.5 board, and found a couple issues. I'll get this one clearanced up, and the new access measurements to the builder so i can start ordering the enclosures for the group2 folks. Luckily there aren't too many changes, but I'm glad i waited.
if i shaved down the aluminum standoffs, then it would fit tight. but as it sits now, there is a little movement to the side panels. no biggie though. i wont hear it over the dash shaking itself to death lol.
also, do you have a wiring documentation page? or diagram?
i watched the video but its hard to keep pausing it to see where the 4 conductor colors go to write them down lol.
Brian
This might help.
Attachment 62211
But I'll try to get a wiring diagram for the board connections. (This is an early v2.0 board. You'll notice we repositioned the SD card to stick out to the right, so it can be accessed from outside the enclosure.)
But basically for version2.0 boards (which you and all the group1 customers received):
On the Left: -Wht is +12v, Blk is ground. (I get this from the diagnostic connector.)
On the upper long side: the 2 position terminal block is for ECU Tx/Rx. My brown wire (on the left terminal) goes to Pink (on the diagnostic connector ), and-my blue wire (on the right terminal) goes to Green.
(The single terminal block is the +21v that some ECU's require for flashing.)
The 4 position header over to the right is for the display. (For those that bought display harness wire AND have the 3.5" display: your display wire should have a black mark on one connector. That connector is to the board.)
On the close long side: Analog inputs & signal grounds. From left to right, A1, A2, A3, A4, G, G, G, G
(We didn't like A1, and A2 being orphans, so we grouped them into a 2 POS terminal block for the next version board.)
SD Card is on the right side, and a 2GB SanDisk SD card is the preferred card. Be sure it is formatted to FAT32 this will be handy if you need to sideload an update to your display.
Let us know if you have any other questions!
Received mine and have not had the chance to assemble it. Everything looks great though, thank you for all the work in making this project come together.
Thanks Ian!
Let me know when you are up and running with it, or if you need tech support.
For those DIYers I placed an overview here
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...=1#post1134868
Is there a "zero DIY" option? If the SBECII 3.0 gets cracked, I need something to fool with it but no time to figure out more devices, I have enough megasquirts, AEM piggyback, odd knock boxes to hate already.
Not really sure what you are asking.
You could get an assembled board.
There is still some 'assembling' the end user does, putting the device together in the enclosure though, but no soldering.
The learning curve for it isn't terrible if you are familiar with MPTune & MPScan, but it is something different to have to learn. Can't help that.
Got mine Wayne, Everything looks good so far.
Thanks!!
Was able to get (2) DIY kit orders out and delivered this week. (These orders didn't have enclosures. )
I have all the other DIY kits for the remaining group2 orders.
I'm expecting 6 assembled boards probably today or tomorrow. And then the last 4 assembled boards probably next week.
Enclosure design changes to accommodate the v2.5 boards have been requested and i am waiting for a test enclosure before i order all the enclosures for the remaining orders. I don't want a repeat of something not quite right with the enclosures.
Any orders without enclosures will get shipped out pretty quickly.
So, we are on the home stretch! Our distribution facility in NC is going to be pretty busy over the next couple weeks!