Thanks for the input; and that front end looks great; And this is the correct link and part???
http://www.kaminari.com/node/787
thanks,
jm
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Thanks for the input; and that front end looks great; And this is the correct link and part???
http://www.kaminari.com/node/787
thanks,
jm
Yes, that's it. The additional work they mention is that it includes no provisions for mounting. You either have to glue some studs in appropriate places inside the front and/or use double-sided trim tape to attach it.
never noticed the difference looks like the oem is the lowest and has a bigger lip. 4th one pictured is a razzi body kit, i have the same oneQuote:
Originally Posted by CSX321
I think the cars look much better with the deeper front lip:). I am going to be looking for an 89 csx and hope to find one that is a nice project car.
jm
anyone know 100% what dash harness is in these cars? is it the regular 89 turbo dash harness or something custom, i'd like to try to make a second simplified harness for the engine but want to use the correct pinouts...
anyone know a paint code for the gold fiberride wheels ? or a close match will do
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002jm
You have been PMED
Do the fiberides have a special torque ratings for the lugs.
I torque them to the 85ftlb. minimum spec.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennism3
Thanks
Does anyone have a picture of a cutaway of a Fiberride showing the middle of the wheel and how it looks in real life? I was looking over the patent tonight and I find it very interesting.
https://patentimages.storage.googlea...US4900097A.pdf
On the Fiberride front, I weighed two of them and divided by two yesterday. They came out to 18.2lbs each with my digital scale.
Old thread, but let me add my 102 to the crowd. Bought it from the OG owner ins Sept 21 with whom it sat in his fgarage for 9 years. I have been working through the 9 years of issuing still, but have it down to working an overboots issue. All vacuum lines replaced with silicone hoses, scanner verified solenoids work, air pressure to can verifies actuator/vanes not frozen (I can feel the lever arm hitting the open stop),, smoke machine looking for leaks, boost reference pressure to can open port via VNT3 solenoid was 25psi, and stock exhaust. Kind of frustrating, as I cannot do WOT runs in 4th or 5th (code 67 OB shutdown) but 1-3 scream.
Well crap, I dont have a website to load photos....
That’s weird. I’m not amazing with the vent stuff yet since I’ve only had to get 497 back up and running with the s60 vnt. I hope you can get that figured out soon. The vnt is really fun, but very frustrating.
Cordes,
I have verified with two different boost gauges that the car is making 23lbs of boost when it goes into overboost shut down. I verified the top actuator can port (vane open) is seeing the 23lbs boost so they should be opening. I also verified the bottom actuator can port (vanes closed) is only seeing vacuums - 0 pressure so that is working as it should. Basically all the solenoids work like they should. With an air compressor I can actuate the vanes, but that does not mean they move when hot from the exhaust.
Pretty sure it is now a vane issue but in order to get the turbo out, everyone says its easiest to just pull the turbo out along with the head. So thinking that is my next course of action, getting the turbo rebuilt. It has 108k miles on it, so it won't be a bad thing to accomplish.
The vnt turbos are so small that it shouldn’t be too hard to pull with the head on if you wanted. I generally just pull the turbos off and leave the head, but I have a lot of practice from when I was too poor to buy a new hg and coolant. The one thing that’s a pain with the vnt is the actuator. I think I pull it to remove the turbo easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by GLHS564
I safety wired the vanes wide open and it still overboost, so to me that rules out all the ECU control systems and point directly at the turbo/vanes. I pulled the turbo air intake tube off and the compressor wheel look great. I could not feel any rubbing while spinning the turbo by hand, and could not feel any radial shaft movement or any axial shaft movement.
So now I wonder if the vanes are safety wired wide open with a stock exhaust, could the vane lever arm or any ring be broken? In other words, just because the actuator and lever arm are against the open stop pin, does it mean that actual vanes are open? I plan to drop the exhaust and using a scope look at the vanes while applying pressure to the open port on the actuator can.
Does it sound and feel like the vanes are moving when you move the lever by hand. It should be pretty noticeable.
No idea as the actuator spring is pretty strong. I have sourced and bought a NOS VNT-25 so hopefully that will cure it. I will then have my OG sent out for a rebuild.Quote:
Originally Posted by cordes
Since it still over boosted with the vane lever arm safety wired in the wide open position, just for shyts and giggles with the safety wired removed and all systems restores I added a 2" to 1.5" exhaust reducer to the muffler tip. Net result was built boost slower than stock exhaust, but still hit 23lbs boost and OB shut down. To me the problem now MUST be inside the turbo.
I did receive my NOS VNT-25 setup and the plan now is to just pull the engine/trans together and split once out. Swap the turbo, replace the front and rear main seals (only because its out and they are 33 years old), replace the clutch assembly, and install a rebuilt 555 that I bought, replace all engine/trans mounts, and either reseal or replace the steering rack. I bought both the rebuild kit and also a new rack (mine intermittently pukes fluid out where the steering shaft goes into the top of the rack). Then put it all back together. Aiming for a late Spring early June time frame to do it as works has me busy up to that point.
Anyone have any other thoughts for my OB condition I may have missed or other recommended maintenance items to address while the engine/trans are out?