Is there a good way to set the timing on the SOHC cars without the covers? I'm fairly certain that I have the timing right, but I would like to verify it before bolting everything back together. I think the most I could be off is a tooth right now.
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Is there a good way to set the timing on the SOHC cars without the covers? I'm fairly certain that I have the timing right, but I would like to verify it before bolting everything back together. I think the most I could be off is a tooth right now.
I'm surprised that the PS pumps are so expensive online. Ours is making a lot of noise and it needs to be replaced. Is the JY the way to go with these? I don't really want to pay $140 for a pump, or $100 for one without a reservoir. It seems like they should be much less money, but I know I'm spoiled by the cheap parts for TMs that I'm used to buying.
It's worse when cold, but it makes noise a lot. The fluid was in really rough shape recently too. I think it's headed south and would like to get it done before there's a huge problem with it.
i find it odd that it would be dying.
my wifes 98 pump made it 250k without issue and she ran it dry for 23 miles once.
my 97 made it around the same without issue.
is there a filter in the reservoir or anything that can clog up like on the 01-07 vans? those pumps were noisy as hell when the screen in the reservoir gets clogged.
Brian
That's interesting. I'm not sure that there is a filter. Mine has 275K plus on it now. The fluid in it was super nasty recently and the reservoir was low. I flushed it and the sound comes and goes, but is definitely worse when it is cold out. It's a pretty loud squeal really. The pump can get relatively hot too. I just think it's on its way out.
Mine completely died around 170k miles. I needed the car back together quickly and couldn't swing an OEM pump, so I bought a sucky Autozone reman unit. It was noisy, and the noise level was proportional to ambient temperature (below freezing it sounded BAD, but the assist still felt fine). I drove it for almost 50k miles like that with no issues. The fluid never looked funny. The new owner is still using that same pump.
Just a warning: if you end up getting a pump without a reservoir, make damn sure you transfer the little white seal where the reservoir meets the pump!
https://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67975
Thanks for that info. I think I'll try to get a JY unit when the weather turns. The car doesn't currently have AC after the heater core replacement last fall, and I know that Joy won't want to listen to the pump with the windows down in the summer.
My 95 Neon seems pretty gutless, and I believe it still has a cat on it. I'd just as soon remove it and go on with my life. Does anyone know what size the pipe is in there so I can just order stuff up without doing a ton of measuring? I know I'm being lazy, but I've been swamped with projects this summer and would prefer to do this in a lazy fashion. Frankly, that's why I'm hoping that cutting this off and installing a pipe will cure this ill.
Does anyone know if there are performance differences between the SRT4 and the regular Neon ABS systems? Basically...are they the same system or does the SRT4 version allow for harder braking before preventing the lock-up?
ABS systems use wheel speed sensors to determine when a wheel is locking up. Lockup point is more or less determined by the difference in the friction between the pad and the rotor vs the tire and the road. I'll add that the SRT-4 is extremely sensitive to wheel lockup, causing some scary situations on the track when a rear inside wheel gets light. If i were to track my car again, I might disable the ABS.
Mike, yes, I understood the basic principles...I just didn't know if there was any sort of "performance" advantage where maybe they allowed for slightly more slip angle on the tread before pulsing, etc?
The locking up of the rear wheels during hard braking is my biggest concern, honestly. What does the ABS system do that causes the scary stuff (and I am thinking we are talking trail braking, so we are trying to transfer weight as smoothly as possibly with the brakes and steering angle)? It is a 4-channel system, so I wouldn't think it would mess with the outside rear, which absolutely would cause some puckering.
When researching this, I came across more stuff about disabling the ABS than about its functioning, etc, and I didn't read any of that. Maybe I should. I used to HATE ABS, but it seems to me that the systems are good enough (even 20 years ago) with good tires and brake components that it is worth looking into fitting it into a car that doesn't have it. Especially considering modern cars' stopping distances compared to ours. Even cheap --- people movers can stop in less than 120 feet nowadays...we aren't even getting CLOSE!
If the ABS makes 99% of the driving and handling I do with the car better, and I have to accept that 1% of the time I might need to avoid a certain situation...I think I might be able to deal with that.
Back in... 04 or 05 I was at a driving school at one of the SDAC conventions. One of the instructors brought his fresh new 350Z out on the course during one of the sessions late in the day. My instructor was egging me to pass him. He was outcornering me, but I was able to reel him in on all the straights. I was very close to his back bumper heading into a tight corner. Inside rear tire lost grip, the ABS kicked in and I ended up MUCH closer than I wanted to be. If the 350Z braked any harder, I'd have tapped him, and who knows what would have happened.
From your description, even though it's a 4-channel system, it does not differentiate which wheel to pulse, so it just pulses them *all*? If that's the case, yeah, that's crap and not worth it.
I noticed an 03 R/T in the JY near me. Would something as simple as swapping out the intake pick up power? How much could I pick up if I did the whole top end in my 95? This car is OK to drive around in, but a total dog vs all my other vehicles. It's very frustrating.
i think you have to take the entire top end to make the swap worthwhile. and then retune it.... and figure out how to control the variable intake manifold.
Brian
Shoot. I'll have to do some research. I thought you could bolt on the intake and pick up a few HP with it in whatever the default position is. This thing needs something.
Grab those parts. Your intake manifold will work, although the R/T has a much better active intake which CAN be adapted with an RPM actuated switch. The SOHC R/T "magnum" cylinder head is a significant upgrade over your 1995 head. Get the exhaust manifold too. or use a header with the install. The factory power numbers are 150 for the Magnum and 132 for the standard SOHC, but the powerband is extended extends higher into the revs with the Magnum, without giving up bottom.
Get those parts!
I would say grab the whole engine but the bottom end won't work with your 1995 electronics.
Mike, I was hoping to get your feedback on the way you think the Neon ABS was working. Do you think it was pulsing ALL of the channels when it sensed that inside rear lock-up?