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Just curious what the differences are in the two, that is besides one being a 2 pickup HEP. Is the shutter the same and can the TBI distributor be used with the turbo HEP? Forgive my ignorance. I'm trying to learn how to keep my well loved NY'r alive!
TBI all four shutters are solid, Turbo (MPFI) needs the sync/position signal to fire the injectors hence the second pickup and one of the shutters has a square cut-out in it. A TBI engine will function barely run with a turbo distributor, I would imagine a TBI distributor on a turbo engine would not run at all.
Thanks for the info. It blows me away, that even though the distributors are basically the same, with the exception of the shutters, I can buy a new TBI from RockAuto for $25.00 and a turbo one is $100.00
I have read that a TBI distributor will run in "limp mode".Quote:
Originally Posted by 135sohc
Here is info on my turbo distributor with HEP timing diagrams.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ftermarket-HEP
What is wrong with your distributor? Plastic rivets loose? If so, you can apply epoxy to them and you'll be good to go again. I rebuild my distributors with every engine rebuild. You can drill one small hole in back of housing and drive roll pin out, and clean, re-pack with grease, and rebuild to like new condition. I've even put turbo shutter wheels on TBI distributors. Obviously does not include HEP.Quote:
Originally Posted by elmor353
Todd
Some aftermarket distrib's have metal rivets. They'll never come loose again.
In my experience (dont ask) a turbo car won't run or will barely start with a TBI distributor.
A good tip! ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by 4 l-bodies
I've always removed the drive coupling on the bottom, saves having to drill a hole on the body.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 l-bodies
+1. Even when I reworked mine for 2.4L use, I never took the pin out of the shutter wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
Internally, I believe everything is physically interchangeable between TBI and turbo distributors. As others have said, the end use is not.
I've had some pins in distributor end that didn't want to budge, while others came out no problem. The roll pin in shutter wheel is much smaller and I find it easier on distributor shaft bushings to drive that bushing out. More than one way to skin a cat as they say.
Todd
roll pins..trivial but useful..
the roll pin in that attaches the rag joint box to the steering box on a 60-70 dodge EXACTLY fits the diff pin in a 525 ..and won't fall out or fail no matter how hard you beat it
a Canadian , square red robertson screwdriver is THE best tool
AgreedQuote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge
Does anyone sell a shutter wheel assembly by itself? When I went to replace the HEP today, I discovered that the shutter wheel had 1/4 inch of play in it. Would be nice not to have to buy a whole distributor. I replaced it with another distributor that I had. The replacement has some movement as well, but not as much as the old one.
Why not repair as per Todd's suggestion above??Quote:
Originally Posted by elmor353
"Plastic rivets loose? If so, you can apply epoxy to them and you'll be good to go again."
Ah, I missed that. Must be old age. lol While perusing Ebay, I found a distributor that had brass rivets holding the shutter wheel in place. Too bad it was a TBI unit.