There are no moving parts that I can see, so what goes wrong with them and can they be fixed? Replacing them every year seems a bit excessive.
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There are no moving parts that I can see, so what goes wrong with them and can they be fixed? Replacing them every year seems a bit excessive.
Wire breakage is the most common problem. Truth be told I have never had one 'go bad' but I have replaced them when trouble shooting issues and when the issue still happens anyways I knew they were not the 'problem'. Such as recently when my spark would cut out at totally random times. All the symptoms of an HEP dying but it turned out to be the coil connections were loose and intermittent.
Secure the wire lead coming out with a couple zip ties to the rest of the bundle and that should alleviate a lot of the problem.
I don't know the brand name but look for a hep with leads that look like small lamp cords not the wires that look like phone wires in your house
The hep I refer to has a soft rubber insulation with a groove between each wire trace inside it - thus it looks like a small lamp cord
I scooped one as a pocket part at the wreckers back in the early /mid '90's
I still have it in my current car today
<<<<<
which didn't run 'till `I put it in
lamp cord like leads are still nice and rubber-ie & soft
problem with the o-e heps was the uoter phone cord like insolation that hardens and breaks the tiny wires inside
25 years and 6 cars ..and still working ... not a bad hep .. for absolutely free
Dealer ones were always good, lasted a long time. Auto parts store ones never worked.
I have repaired the wire breakage by repairing the wires at the breaking point. The issue is a lack of strain release, thus 135sohc suggestion of using a zip tie is a good one.Quote:
Originally Posted by 135sohc
Mopar HEP are discontinued.Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny
GOOD , GOOD RIDDANCE TO THEM
the o-e's WERE the original problem with the hard insolation
I really don't understand you guys lovin the mopar heps
same as the ford guys who refuse to use anything other than a ford coil on plug coil
BOTH the original causes of most of our problems..
I DON't get this ..I've used the same aftermarket pickup in 6 cars over almost thirty years
SAME PICK UP
an o-e one might last a year .. same as everyone I had before this one
same one I described a few posts back
lol
best free part ever
My auto parts store ones wouldnt even last a week sometimes. NEVERE had an issue with a dealer one.
I'll add
you CAN run Moroso Blue Max 8mm solid stranded stainless steel spark plug wires WITHOUT electrical interference to either the radio or the ECU in our cars -even with the long coil wire and some reused distributor end terminals
been there /done that
it works well ...though I did use hemi isolators / boots at the plugs which is a plastic tube around the plug boot to help push it down the hole in the valve cover and onto the plug
my rebuilt motors ALWAYS had nice clean slightly tan coloured plugs when checked
champ rn9yc with stock gap and an o-e style accel super stack coil
nothing' really fancy .. just really good parts
there is/was a different coil I wanted to try but it's discontinued
- was a Mallory epoxy core coil .."the" off road 4x4 coil they had until about 8-10 years ago
extremely vibration proof and some more zap than the stocker or super stack coils
The general test of an HEP going bad would be look for RPM during a crank. During a long crank the Tach should bump a little or better yet look on a scan tool for RPM. No RPM, then there is a problem with that circuit. May be the HEP or may be wiring...Quote:
Originally Posted by 135sohc
If there is RPM, then the problem is elsewhere...
I bought a car that was a no start. The prior owner threw a bunch of parts at it, including a new but bad HEP. Working HEP and I had RPM, but it still didn't start. Wiring issue with the coil was the original problem...
Next question... is there a way to replace the HEP system in the distributor? Maybe replace the Hall Effect system with another way to trigger the spark pulse? Just curious. I mean, there are tons of ignition systems for other engines, is there an upgrade to the ignition on our turbo cars?
The HEP in my DD Sundance is the original from when I bought the car in September 1987. It seems to be fineQuote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge
My New Yorker doesn't have a tach.
Replaced the HEP today and the car runs worse than before. It may have kept shutting down on me, but when it ran, it ran smooth. Just spent $50.00 on a Standard LX125 pickup and it spits and sputters and misses something terrible. Don't know if I got a crappy unit right out of the box or if I've got something else going on. I suppose I should check to see if it's thrown a code.
- - - Updated - - -
The bad part is that I can't take electrical parts back once they have been installed.
seeing as you just handled the plugs to install that new hep and now have even more issues ,.. check the wires going into the hep connector plug , on the engine harness side of the plugs
the big wires can fail at the backside of the connector as easily as the little ones in the hep's leads
yes , looking at your post I can see exactly why it still worksQuote:
Originally Posted by chromguy
I kid you not but back in the day when I fixed a lot of buddys stuff I had that friend who had all those transmissions , and other things I did for him
another friend would ask how his car was doing
if I said it's ok .. I'd likely hear from buddy when he got home that same night
then
I learned to answer
"it seems to be ok"
and I stopped needing to fix so much X for him..
yeah , like I said , no kidding
I learned Karma is for real a LONG time ago
everyone remember the phrase it seems to be ok ..in a tone like you couldn't care less
-don't tempt things with any uptick of enthusiasm....
There has also been reports where folks have suspected that some aftermarket HEP's have the pickups in the wrong place in relation to the rotational angle of the shutter wheel when compared to stock. This throws the signal timing off that the computer needs to make the engine run correctly and probably can't be seen unless on a scope or something like that where you can compare signal timing events. Dunno if just a timing light would be enough as the ignition pickup could be correct, but the fuel pickup could be off.
Yup that was me. I tested approx 7 or 8 HEP several Mopar, and several aftermarket. Yes, there were large variation in the angle between the two sensors for the aftermarket I tested. I tested with my saleae logic analyzer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reaper1
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...=1#post1144004