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:( So in the last month we have lost 2 turbos they just self destructed and started dumping oil what things would cause that the only thing different we have done is we started doing our own cals with the T-SMEC program and only running like 16 PSI. Any Tips? its not to cheap to keep fixing turbos
Did you replace the oil feed line the first time, or at least inspect it to see how it looked?
Did you inspect the cartridge? Oil failure is what it sounds like. Your feed may be blocked or if you are using an inline filter (which you should be) it may have a blockage. The shaft bearings make it pretty obvious if it is an oil failure, but if it just started dumping oil, the pressure may be too high to the turbo causing it to blow the oil seals, in which case you would need to add a restriction inline.
Do NOT add a restrictor inline to the turbo feed.
Whats your oil pressure? Are you running the mopar high pressure spring or anything like that? Or just a stock oil pump?
If you don't have one, get a mechanical gauge and check your pressure, they are like $10-15 at autozone and easy to hook up....typically the end of the oil pressure block in the front of the engine (where the turbo feed and oil pressure sensor are) there's a 1/8'' NPT plug....or atleast somewhere on that block there's a port thats capped off.
Are you running a SS braided line? Was it purchased with the turbo(s)? Do you have the turbo properly clocked so that it's no more than 15 degrees tilted? If you are running the stock return tube and if it's close enough to install the silicone line thats good, just asking.
Also, are you priming the turbo properly when it's first installed? To do it correctly you should remove the oil return silicone line, and crank the engine until oil comes out.
If the oil pressure at the turbo is too high, you will have to lower the pressure. But you need to verify the pressure first.
No, you will have to lower the oil pressure. Oil restrictor in the turbo line is a big no no, just ask Chris at TU.
Something will be causing the pressure to be high, if it's high. Thats what needs fixed. Most likely if it is high, he installed the MP high pressure spring. I had one in, and it let to the turbo seal leaking because I was getting 80 PSI cold pressure, Chris recommended I take the spring out and the turbo will re-seal, and it did after a week or two.
I guess that's why some turbos have them built into the fittings, so it's not part of the line....right, oh master mechanic?
Ball bearing turbo's have them built into the oil feed on the turbo itself, because ball bearing turbo's don't require as much lubrication.
what should the pressure be? and yes it has new oil lines and everything looked good. The turbo has major shaft play now so time for a rebuild:( thanks guys HOw can i tell if it is clocked correctly?
The oil feed should be close to directly on the top and the return directly out the bottom. No more than 15 degrees off vertical.
I was about to argue with moparzrule, but he clarified about DBB turbos
Are you running a good known BOv not running one or one that's not set up properly if not it will stack the boost when the TB is slammed closed putting extra thrust on the bearing and shaft.
are you cooling the turbo down after a hard run
are you using a good oil not some bargain brand
Any pics of the failures???
Turbonetics regular turbo's come with a restrictor with a screen, so DON'T remove it.
I have 75 psi hot and cold oil pressure and my turbo is just fine, over a year on it and I just tore it apart thinking it let go but it was my PCV system, turbo is still fine.
What turbo are you using? What bov are you using?
Are you still running a cat?
The issue sounds more like lack of lubrication now, if major shaft play is the symptom. I would still get a gauge and check if oil pressure is too low now.
I am using a Forge BOV and yes a CAT but sometimes i run it with an open DPQuote:
Originally Posted by tryingbe
What would the proper procedure be to cool the turbo down and what kind of oil would be not good i usually use the chevron brand and have on all my cars maybe i should mix in some Mobil one to help it outQuote:
Originally Posted by bakes
Let it idle for a minute or so if you just got done beating on it. If you have been driving normally before shutdown you should be able to just shut it down. I have not had any problems with a non-water-cooled turbo for several years now. I think you may be having an oil issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BADVAN
I repeat, any pics???????
no pics on the first one i already sent it off and the second one i will have to get from my brother