Help with Prop valve

Hey Guys!
86 Daytona Turbo Z CS here with stock brakes (drum in the back). I had my passenger's front brake lock up/hang up on me. Figured it was just a crappy rebuilt caliper I put on from Auto Zone. I replaced that caliper with a new one from NAPA. This time I couldn't get the caliper to bleed. Nothing came out. (yes it is the correct side caliper) So, I went to replace the badly worn looking rubber brake hose, but of course the steel brake line sheered off when removing.
Now I decided to run all new copper lines and rubber flex lines. When I removed the old steel line from the Prop valve for the passenger's side, little if any fluid leaked out. Didn't think anything of it, but it sat like that for a week and held fluid in the reservoir. Yesterday I removed the driver's side steel line and the fluid went everywhere from the prop valve.

The M/C is a year old, so I'm thinking it has to be the prop valve?

What cars can I snag one from at the yards? Aries? Any 80s car with discs up front and drums in the back?

There should be a tag on your prop valve. You'll want to do your best to match it although some of the colors were used twice with different valves over the years. Rbryant posted up a list of them all in a great brake thread a couple of years ago. One thing to try would be to hit the brake pedal hard in an attempt to reset the prop valve. It sometimes gets stuck if you push too hard while attempting to bleed them. IIRC it's some sort of safety feature.

Ok, interesting tip. So when I try to reset the prop valve, should all the lines be hooked back up? Or should I leave the front two off as they are now and try to jam on the brakes?
Thanks,
Lee

Lee, a few thing come to mind here. I would say that the wheel locked up more from the age of the hose than a rebuilt caliper. The proportioning valve limits the pressure to the rear brakes only. Was the rear master cylinder reservoir empty that feeds the R/F wheel. When you say copper I hope you mean Ni-Copp and try to minimize the time the brake system hydraulics expose is to the atmosphere.

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Originally Posted by Lee'sdaytona

Ok, interesting tip. So when I try to reset the prop valve, should all the lines be hooked back up? Or should I leave the front two off as they are now and try to jam on the brakes?
Thanks,
Lee

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I've only done this with the system in tact.

Repeat this 12 times while you bang your head against the wall 12 times. IF you are replacing the flex hose, CUT THE FLEX hose and rotate it off the steel line. BECAUSE the flare nut is rusted to the steel line! Once the flex line is removed, you can use PB Blaster and heat to free the nut from the line. Yeah, I learned the same way you did! I sat there 30 minutes just staring at my mistake, then came up with the solution.

NOTE there are 2 flex lines for each side on the rear and a short steel line on the trailing arm. Once again cut the flex line and rotate the steel line off the flex line. If you want the easy way after it is cut, heat the connection. It will blow the rubber out of the flex coupling and you can take it apart by hand.

I'm doing the same thing on a TC by Masi. Getting rid of the Teves system. Note that you need a bender and a flaring tool for a double flare. Also tape the flare nut on the line BEFORE you flare.