Shelby Lancer #092 restoration

I am starting to disassemble Shelby Lancer 92 for a complete restoration. My goal is not to go back to 100% stock, but to make the car as stock appearing as possible while taking advantage of some of the more common and effective upgrades. I've been doing a fair amount of research for OEM parts as I think that will be my largest hurdle. I'll post any links, business or previously unknown resources as I find them for the rest of the community to utilize. Below is the scope of the restoration, I will continue to post pictures as I progress!

Engine- Already built

-90 common block 2.2 bored .030 over
-manley forged steel SRT4 rods
- Wiesco forged pistons and Hastings rings.
- Turbos unleashed R5 camshaft
- comp cams beehive springs with LS retainers and stock locks
- PT lifter and shim upgrade
- ported 782 head with +1 mm valves
- ported 2 piece intake 52mm throttle body
- Turbos unleashed cast step header
- Hybrid turbo, stage II turbine housing and wheel
- stainless coolant and oil lines to turbo
- balance shaft delete
- custom windage tray
- all poly mounts and solid bobble strut
- functional AC
- ZF power steering pump


Transmission- All already built/purchased

- 1987 A555 trans rebuilt by TU 20k miles ago
- aluminum flywheel
- equal length cv shaft removal with DSS shafts
- TU 6 puck clutch with purple pressure plate
- walbro fuel pump with brand new tank, sending unt

Interior-

- All my seats are torn, currently investigating options for recovering
- I previously modified my wiring harness to accept the 12 button traveler, I will opt to keep the traveler and not the cubby
- I have 3 full sets of correct pioneer speakers, currently investigating having speakers reconditioned
- I have 1 DEX77 that is not functional. A pioneer sales and service shop in Greenfield Indiana is repairing this for me
- Currently have 3 CS momo steering wheels that all need re-wrapped.
- Lloyd Shelby embroidered floor mats
- new moulded carpet from stockinteriors.com

Brakes/suspension-

- I have the spindles, calipers, wheel bearings and rear backing plates to convert the brakes to 11" front disc and 10" vented rear discs
- The master cylinder and booster will be replaced
- Full set of KONI shocks and struts being rebuilt by truechoicekoniracingservices.com in Ohio
- 100% polyurethane suspension mounts where applicable
- factory rack and pinion
- mopar ball joints and tie rods
- eibach springs front and rear

Body-

- Brand new NOS shelby lancer mobil 1 plaque
- full reproduction graphics kit from thedecalshoppe.com
- original graphic red paint (base clear)
- 2 OEM rear door vent windows (purchased recently)
- original wheels will be restored
- 4x6 headlight housing conversion from glass units, will install HID lights
- I have replacement sheet metal for the rusted areas of the car. Passenger side rear wheel well and entire rocker panel, e brake opening in the floor, sections of the rear floor on passenger side
- Sans the HID lights and likely window tint, the exterior will look 100% stock.


Currently, I am finishing up stripping down the body with only the rear axle, fuel tank, fuel and brake lines, exhaust heat shields and long block to remove. Once I have the car stripped, it will be heading to car craft collision here in Findlay to be media blasted with plastic beads for the paint and glass for the rust. They will handle applying sealer primer as well. I am hopeful sometime this month or next I will be able to get the car over for blasting.

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Nice project

Might I suggest going to an 89/90 Kmember setup. Though you might want to go to a set of 2804 eibachs instead of the 2801's if you do that as you'll need more spring rate. The 2801's bottom out the Koni's on my 87 ShelbyZ with an 80/90 Kmember and spherical bearings if I hit a good bump :(

the 89/90 is dual pivot correct? I have thought about making the switch but I thought at one time I read that the wheels sit 1" or so towards the rear of the car in the wheel well on a dual pivot so I stopped researching at that point. I do have a few resources for the 89/90 k frame, but the eibachs are no longer made (2804 or 2801) so I'd have to come up with a good spring solution. I don't need any more temptation to snag a BC coil over kit..... lol

yes the 89/90 is dual pivot. No it doesn't move the wheels fwd or backward in relationship to the car. Those were some of the a-arms on the 91+ kmembers.

any pics or thoughts on fitament of the lloyd mats? I've been thinking about getting some but haven't seen any installed.

Good to know on the K frame! I may end up going that route after all.


Once I get the carpet in I'll get some pics of the mats up. I just ordered them a couple days ago so I'm waiting to see what they look like.

I first did the K frame upgrade on my SL #748 back in the day when you could just go to *any* J yard and get one. Huge difference in driveability, very worthwhile upgrade. Done it on 4-5 cars since including a couple L bodies:eyebrows:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2.216VTurbo

I first did the K frame upgrade on my SL #748 back in the day when you could just go to *any* J yard and get one. Huge difference in driveability, very worthwhile upgrade. Done it on 4-5 cars since including a couple L bodies:eyebrows:

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Likewise, did it to my SL and noticed a much better ride, overall. I did go to coil overs at the same time, but for me I feel that would have made the ride stiffer. Regardless, it was an easy swap. :thumb:

Why not use some Hella conversion housings for the headlights? All the brightness you can handle, with proper aiming to go along with it?

Also, do the pics not show up for others, or is it just me again?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cordes

Why not use some Hella conversion housings for the headlights? All the brightness you can handle, with proper aiming to go along with it?

Also, do the pics not show up for others, or is it just me again?

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I am NOT seeing the pics either.

Hmm I used photobucket and copied the links into the posts like I always have. Is there an easier/better way to post pics? The photobucket thing is a pita.

The last couple days were spent auditing dash board parts and fixing stress cracks in the plastic on the back of the dash. I was able to make a good cup holder and glove box out of the parts I had. The original dash board was fatally modified by the PO when a double DIN radio was installed, a large portion of the plastic frame in the radio/hvac area was removed to accommodate the much larger radio. I think this weakened the dash significantly because when my car was on the road the dash made more banging/crashing/squeaking noises than any other K car I've been in. I have 3 spare dash boards so I spent some time cleaning them to see which was in the best condition before I made my selection.

I also took the suggestions and purchased a dual pivot K frame from an 89 daytona. As it turns out, I already have many if not all of the poly bushings necessary to rebuild the whole thing. I bought them years ago and forgot I had them, also have Moog ball joints, tie rod ends that I will use with it.



My next adventure will be to find a Shelby correct quick ratio rack and pinion, or a place to rebuild mine. K frame will likely be disassembled next week and dropped off for blasting. I'm still deciding if I want to powder coat or just paint with POR-15. Suggestions are welcome.

Can't see the pics either. Would recommend powder coating. The place that doesu stuff is cheap and everything I've had done has held up really well.