1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
I have a leaky rear drum brake wheel cyl on a K car style LeBaron
Is it possible to install new seals in the wheel cylinder without removing it??
I'm afraid the steel line will twist off if I try to replace the entire wheel cyl.
Working one handed has limited my abilities considerably.
Any input is appreciated !!
Thanks
Randy
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
Not once have I had success repairing one. If the seals are leaking then the bore is usually shot and wont reseal anyways.
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
I agree but am trying to find out if the pistons remove with the wheel cyls in place.
Thanks
Randy
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
Randy,
Yes you can physically remove the wheel cylinder guts without unbolting them from the backing plate. However, they're probably leaking because of rust. My guess is one of both sides are frozen. You can push them out with a screwdriver or 1/4" extension. The tough part will be trying to clean up the bores so your new seals don't leak. You won't be able to fit a honing tool to clean up the cylinder, unless you find something with flexible shaft. On second thought, you might be able to remove the two screws holding the wheel cylinder to the backing plate so you can push it forward enough to get a brake hone in the cylinder. I work on brakes a lot, I'm successful about 85% time getting that nut broken away from the tube. People living in the sunbelt have no idea what your dealing with... Heat, heat, and more heat and penetrating oil. Slooooow but sure, win this game.
If you try heat, crack open the bleeder screw so the boiling brake fluid has a place to exit.
Good luck!
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
Hi Todd, agreed, but like the criminal said to Clint Eastwood, "I just have to know"..
I remember some that wouldn't allow the pistons to fall out.
Thanks
Randy
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
4 l-bodies
... Heat, heat, and more heat and penetrating oil!
That works. If time is on your side, I always try a variant. I remove the rust from the nut/thread/tube and place a drop or two of ATF on the fitting a few times a day. After 1-3 days the part commonly comes off easily. Also the "back and forth" technique like using a tap or die, greatly reduces the chance of binding on the fitting ,if loose. Oh, I like to place ATF in a used nasal spray bottle that has the dip tube removed.
If that does not work, it is blue wrench time as Todd states
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
different train of thought..
sometimes.. there IS a use for the local service shop... one wheel cylinder and a new fitting / flare.. MIGHT be worth considering..
"just saying"
I'm having a prob with my own ride .. a missfire
I changed out the coil on the cylinder in question yesterday ..but the issue continues
considering the cold and damp.. "the times" .. my cardo blockages and .. such
I'm in no need of making myself sick workin out in the driveway..
so .. like I said.. "just sayin"
no mater how much pride ya take in doing stuff yourself .. it is ok to ask for help.. specially with the small stupid stuff
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
A friend just took his car to a mechanic shop (not dealership) to have a single hard brake line repaired or replaced. The shop gave him an estimate for $1500+ they said everything MUST be replaced. New rotors, drums, calipers, wheel cylinders, pads, shoes, all flex lines, in addition to the hard brake line that failed. Claimed the vehicle was so rusty it CAN'T be safely driven on the road!
The guy had someone else (In-Law relative) pick up the car because he wasn't even in the state where the car was being repaired. The shop basically scared the people picking up the car so much so that they're renting a car instead of driving the car that was repaired. Vehicle has not even 70K miles on it, and front and rear brakes along with rear wheel cylinders were replaced by me not even 20K miles ago. They provided no proof that any of the stuff they wanted to replace needed replacement. They knew that owner wasn't in a position to view the car. Shop very reluctantly just repaired the brake line. So, the owner ended up getting charged $526 for replacing a small section of brake line. $20 in parts, and $450 in labor! And people wonder why people don't trust car repair and car dealers... This was a shop that was given 5 star ratings by their customers.
So my point is, no guarantees taking the car into a shop for a simple repair, will be inexpensive. Unscrupulous people lurk everywhere.
Todd
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
Time is on my side Miles and its been soaking a few days.
Probably going to check the wheel cyls and try disassembling tomorrow.
Thanks
Randy
Quote:
Originally Posted by
chromguy
That works. If time is on your side, I always try a variant. I remove the rust from the nut/thread/tube and place a drop or two of ATF on the fitting a few times a day. After 1-3 days the part commonly comes off easily. Also the "back and forth" technique like using a tap or die, greatly reduces the chance of binding on the fitting ,if loose. Oh, I like to place ATF in a used nasal spray bottle that has the dip tube removed.
If that does not work, it is blue wrench time as Todd states
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
And this is the major piss off Johnny!!
It's very hard around here to get someone to look at /work on drum brakes.
The pedal was soft so I took it to a skilled mechanic I know an hour away.
He said replaced the steel lines from combination valve to the rear end.
$600.00 later, he stated that's was all he was willing to do on an old car.
-30 temp and by the time I got it back to home it had essentially no brakes.
Got the rear jacked up and fluid is pouring out of the rear drums.
All I was able to do was lube the steel lines at the wheel cylinder.
Tomorrow I hope to examine it closer and make a plan.
If the pistons remove and the cyl bores are OK, great.
If not, it's one handed crying time!!
Thanks
Randy
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Dr. Johny Dodge
different train of thought..
sometimes.. there IS a use for the local service shop... one wheel cylinder and a new fitting / flare.. MIGHT be worth considering..
"just saying"
I'm having a prob with my own ride .. a missfire
I changed out the coil on the cylinder in question yesterday ..but the issue continues
considering the cold and damp.. "the times" .. my cardo blockages and .. such
I'm in no need of making myself sick workin out in the driveway..
so .. like I said.. "just sayin"
no mater how much pride ya take in doing stuff yourself .. it is ok to ask for help.. specially with the small stupid stuff
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
Agreed!!!!
There are more dud shops/mechanics than there are dud cars.
No disrespect to the good mechanics out there.
I just got an expensive dud!
Thanks
Randy
[QUOTE=4
So my point is, no guarantees taking the car into a shop for a simple repair, will be inexpensive. Unscrupulous people lurk everywhere.
Todd[/QUOTE]
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
Another question:
Are there any rear drum brake adjustment knockouts on these cars??
Thanks
Randy
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
Not sure about that exact application, but I've seen rubber plugs on virtually every FWD Chrysler rear drum backing plates. I know every Chrysler FWD car I've had, has had them.
Randy,
I think you just need to find someone to help YOU do this repair. My friend was saying he could have flown me out round trip to do the repair and it would have been cheaper than what he paid for. Pretty sad, but I think he may have been correct. That $1500 estimate would have been more than 2K replacing everything they said they wanted to do.
Me and my neighbor are on day two of cutting down trees on another elderly neighbors property. He has several trees that are leaners, hung up in other trees. They need to come down ASAP before someone or something damaged. That is what some people do. There are givers and takers in this world. Once there were a lot of givers, now far more takers than givers. Hopefully you can find someone that lives close to you to help you.
Todd
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
Appreciate your kind words Todd!!
I'm really just preparing for this afternoons LeBaron brake attack.
I have a 1986 Chevy propane van with no adjuster holes and it got me thinking.
I have a friend coming over to help me, he's willing but not very mechanical minded.
With my left side issues getting down and up from under a car is very difficult.
I'm really only trying to be as prepared as possible with my dumb questions.
Engines were always my main interest, I always had workers in my younger years.
I left the brake and suspension etc. work to them as I found it uninteresting.
Now I'm just trying to keep this old low mileage LeBaron on the road if possible.
You mention trees, I live on 5 acres and trees are constantly falling down!!
Bless you for helping your elderly neighbor!!
And many others.
Thanks
Randy
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
I spent the afternoon and evening under the LeBaron and am exhausted.
Dirty and grimy but very happy, I got the wheel cyls, lines and flexhoses out.
Wheel cyls looked pretty good but I decided not to take a chance on them.
Locals seem to have no stock on flexhoses, not sure on wheel cyls
Probably get the parts from Rockauto in a few days.
Thanks
Randy
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
Disassemble the drum brake down to the backing plate and the cylinder.
Remove the two bolts holding the cylinder to the backing plate.
Hold the line with a wrench on the flare nut while spinning the wheel cylinder off the threaded of the nut.
Now you can either just reinstall the new cylinder using the same method, or you can more easlily heat and loosen the flare nut.
The same method works for connections at rubber lines. Cut the line, remove the U clip holding the line ot the frame. Spin the line off of the flare nut.
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
Thanks Miles!!!
Thanks
Randy
Quote:
Originally Posted by
chromguy
FANTASTIC News!!!!
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
I appreciate the thought and its a good method.
The line at the cyl was very crusty but the line into the flex hose came out.
Parts are cheap so I decided to replace the flexhose, steel line and wheel cyl.
Your method is excellent but I couldn't live with the crusty steel line.
Thanks
Randy
PS: Flexhoses are cheap but stock is running low, buy then now if you can.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ajakeski
Disassemble the drum brake down to the backing plate and the cylinder.
Remove the two bolts holding the cylinder to the backing plate.
Hold the line with a wrench on the flare nut while spinning the wheel cylinder off the threaded of the nut.
Now you can either just reinstall the new cylinder using the same method, or you can more easlily heat and loosen the flare nut.
The same method works for connections at rubber lines. Cut the line, remove the U clip holding the line ot the frame. Spin the line off of the flare nut.
Re: 1988 K-car style LeBaron sedan rear wheel cylinder questions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
GLHS60
I appreciate the thought and its a good method.
The line at the cyl was very crusty but the line into the flex hose came out.
Parts are cheap so I decided to replace the flexhose, steel line and wheel cyl.
Your method is excellent but I couldn't live with the crusty steel line.
Thanks
Randy
PS: Flexhoses are cheap but stock is running low, buy then now if you can.
Little FYI, I had the same thought on stocking up. Bought several brake lines from RA for my Shadows and L-bodies. Two lines I got from RA were going bad right in the box! The rubber had turned gooey WTF? I saw manufacturing dates on the hoses going back over 20 years. They would have failed immediately had I tried to use them. RA sent out two more and they were fine. Need to be somewhat careful buying up super old stock. I've had that happen with other products too. Just because they're new old stock, doesn't mean they're good as new (lol).
Todd