Do I need new pistons for my TII??

Ripped apart my '88 TII from my Shelby Z to find lots of surprises.

A google search suggest the pistons are 533P which appears budget quality cast from sealed power, Good thing I was only running 12lbs with S60 turbo.
Are these as bad as I think?

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=56937&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=56938&stc=1

I've run 20psi on the same pistons.

I don't believe these are hypereutectic pistons. If they were, part # would start with H______. Those are the ones not to use in detonation prone forced induction applications. As you probably know they are not as good a quality as the stock Mahle cast piston. Top of piston should be stamped for size. Looks like Silvolite brand which probably is now under Sealed Power label.

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Originally Posted by Force Fed Mopar

I've run 20psi on the same pistons.

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This is very good to know
Thanks!

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Originally Posted by 4 l-bodies

Looks like Silvolite brand which probably is now under Sealed Power label.

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Thank you, I checked on Silvolite.

If Silvolite brand, they have a 533p and it cross linked to the stock Mahle cast, for what that is worth!

Hypereutectic. Turbo. 2.600” dia. head
recess .190” deep w/2 valve reliefs.
Lock-rings included.

Hypereutectic. Turbo. 2.600” dia. head
recess .190” deep w/2 valve reliefs.
Lock-rings included.

These are exactly the ones you don't want!!

Yours must be ones made before the Hypereutectic replacements if yours are actually Silvolite and as Todd suggested.

The S sure looks like the Silvolite symbol.

While Hypers sure look pretty they are very brittle and crack prone, yours look cast.

Thanks
Randy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Force Fed Mopar

I've run 20psi on the same pistons.

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http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...d-cast-pistons

Yes that is them. Maybe I will keep 'em in the build. If I decide to go north of 20, I can get new pistons.

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Originally Posted by GLHS60

Hypereutectic. Turbo. 2.600” dia. head
recess .190” deep w/2 valve reliefs.
Lock-rings included.

These are exactly the ones you don't want!!

Yours must be ones made before the Hypereutectic replacements if yours are actually Silvolite and as Todd suggested.

The S sure looks like the Silvolite symbol.

While Hypers sure look pretty they are very brittle and crack prone, yours look cast.

Thanks
Randy

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Thanks,
I just checked Force Fed Mopars pictures of his and they are the same as mine.

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Originally Posted by 4 l-bodies

I don't believe these are hypereutectic pistons.

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The 533P (2.2) were NOT hyper pistons, the 2.5 pistons were for some reason.

I say were as I'm not sure what they are selling currently.

Thank you everyone so now I know where I am.

Here is what I have
90 common block with forged crank(maybe), cam marked L2 and 7849.
533p pistons
stock swirl head- i plan to mild port
one piece intake- I plan to cut open and port
S60 Turbo with 2.5 exhaust to the back
dual parallel stock intercooler
LM to be converted SMEC
+40 with 255l pump with 3 bar
555 MTX

This will be my DD sleeper and I will be running mostly 91 octane, 94 octane is available but inconvenient to purchase in my town. I am not an aggressive driver but I do want an nice response once the hammer is down. No racing. The above will replace my TI log in an '87 P body
My gut is to pony the cash and get a set of forged pistons but what do you think? Or are forged a waste of money for my needs?

Forged adds a level of error proof. They will live through a certain level of detonation where a cast/hyper piston would give up a ring land or two.
My feeling is if you are in the motor at this point spend the money and get the piece of mind. I would not put used pistons back in a fresh build especially a DD.

4L bodies is correct, on the Sealed Power web site the pistons that are hypereutectic have a "H" in the part number. Also in the description also.

http://www.fmmotorparts.com/fmstoref...xt=#undefined1

Curious as to why you took the engine apart??

Thanks
Randy

The cam is a stock mopar 88 turbo roller cam. You'll see on the opposite side from the 7849 should be 043 or something. Put together and you get the mopar part number which probably supeceeds to 0437850.
There had been some discussion when i asked (since right now i'm using the same cam in Slug and temporarily in Mini that it is the same as the 88 TBI cam. The ebay seller i bought mine from had it listed for all 88 2.2/2.5 applications.
As a heads up. This cam was designed for the square tooth cam sprocket. So if you are installing on a later engine withe round tooth timing gear, you'll be off. (Cam keyways are clocked different)
FWIW, it seems the recommendation is to install the 88 cam at 122 deg.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GLHS60

Curious as to why you took the engine apart??

Thanks
Randy

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Well my "87 P body DD has a good TI log 10psi, so I thought I would build the TII from my 88 Shelby Z to place into the car next spring/summer. The Daytona was sold to me as Super 60. Super 60 computer and turbo but nothing else.The Daytona was parted out to upgrade the Sundance.

Last fall I had a quick look and drained what I expected to be Oil but maybe it was closer to a light weight grease or sludge. The intercooler was filled with 1/2 cup of oil. I think you get the picture
I started to lose confidence in the original owners's mechanic.For the record, in 1988 as soon as the warranty expired, I ripped apart the '87 TI log to "blueprint" and followed with a mild port on the head. This was for fun.
This way I know everything done to my best.

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Originally Posted by wheming

The cam is a stock mopar 88 turbo roller cam. You'll see on the opposite side from the 7849 should be 043 or something. Put together and you get the mopar part number which probably supeceeds to 0437850.
There had been some discussion when i asked (since right now i'm using the same cam in Slug and temporarily in Mini that it is the same as the 88 TBI cam. The ebay seller i bought mine from had it listed for all 88 2.2/2.5 applications.
As a heads up. This cam was designed for the square tooth cam sprocket. So if you are installing on a later engine withe round tooth timing gear, you'll be off. (Cam keyways are clocked different)
FWIW, it seems the recommendation is to install the 88 cam at 122 deg.

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Thanks for the "heads up". The engine has square teeth on all sprockets. It is a mish mash of parts.

oil in the bottom tank of a daytona ... a real used car type daytona , is quite normal .. from the crappy pcv / breather system to oil blowing out a old turbo etc

that and never being owned by someone "normal" enough not to be so "involved" as to pick the thing apart for 30 years

I've had oil like that in a 5 year old car that was fine in all respects , just the intake system never got cleaned out

one of the mechanics at the dealer I used to go to joked the primary purpose of a 2.2 is to pump all the oil inside , outside , by any ways possiable

the fact that it can also drive a car down the road is almost secondary ..

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Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge

from the crappy pcv / breather system to oil blowing out a old turbo etc

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The original owner told me during the car's history discussion , that the car started smoking bad and his mechanic "changed the rings". I thought this was the cause of all the oil in the intercooler as ring blowby. I would now guess it was due to both.

just driving it will put oil in all the intake parts
blow by , bad pcv , bad turbo, bad anything will only make it worse

I consider it vital to totally eliminate the entire PCV system in 2.2/2.5 8V Turbo engines.

Zero up side, several possible negatives.

Thanks
Ransy